My first attempt at a restoration

bwingler57

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 24, 2017
Messages
79
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Hey Mac, here is the console totally taken apart with a dimension sheet. If you decide to build it add an extra 2 inches on the size of the drawing, each flange is 1 inch per side. The front and back is 3/4' ply and both are the same, they attach with machine screws and nuts. Also the top and side was cut from one piece and bent 90 degrees and a small angle is riveted on to the out side edge. Bottom of leg has 2 holes that screwed to the floor.
 

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macsmith777

Seaman
Joined
Sep 14, 2017
Messages
53
Wow, thanks! I will see about maybe just getting a piece of aluminum bent at a local shop. Now to find a motor..

The knee brace on my boat has two small splits near the top, one on each side..

I am not sure what you are asking about the transom, do you mean an arch across the top? I can take a bunch of pics as I have only started to remove bolts. Some are not SS, and the PO hammered the ends of some, so the need to be cut off as the nuts will not come off. PITA!
 

macsmith777

Seaman
Joined
Sep 14, 2017
Messages
53
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Soooo..... I got after the transom today for a bit and have all the various fasteners off. It was quite a project as many of the bolts had been hammered so as to bend the ends, making removal a question of cutting them all. I am missing the starboard end cap, but lots of time to search.. Like any project, I have used this as a great excuse to buy tools. The new power washer came in today, and I am going to give her a good bath before using the new orbital sander. :D. Here are some pics.. 57, have a peek at these and see if it answers your question!
 

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Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,747
Yeah that one is rotten for sure, hope the wood is in good enough shape for you to get a template out of it.Jeez what's with these guys who use carbon steel in boats anyway? :facepalm:
 

DirtyHarry83

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 5, 2012
Messages
302
Yeah that one is rotten for sure, hope the wood is in good enough shape for you to get a template out of it.Jeez what's with these guys who use carbon steel in boats anyway? :facepalm:

No kidding on the steel. I found a bunch of galvanized steel used for brackets. A bunch of non aluminum rivets. I get stainless isn't cheap but the cost of what I saw could have been done in aluminum with aluminum rivets. At least in my case it didn't get time to galvanic corrosion.

Keep up the good work Mac!
 

bwingler57

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 24, 2017
Messages
79
Excellent pictures Mac, yeah the transom wood is a little rotten there, just be easy with it if you can and you should have enough to make a pattern. And yes the pictures are what i needed to compare to mine, i do have a bent transom metal.
 

Old Irving

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 29, 2015
Messages
151
Good luck with your project. Don't forget to do the water test to check for leaking rivets.

Bob
 

macsmith777

Seaman
Joined
Sep 14, 2017
Messages
53
Should I encounter leaky solid rivets, is it best to attempt to seal from the inside first? The hull appears to be in very good shape, and i would love to avoid having to get into replacing solid rivets.. Thanks!

Also, what brands of both epoxy resin, as well as primer for repainting the hull would everyone recommend?
 

DirtyHarry83

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 5, 2012
Messages
302
Should I encounter leaky solid rivets, is it best to attempt to seal from the inside first? The hull appears to be in very good shape, and i would love to avoid having to get into replacing solid rivets.. Thanks!

Also, what brands of both epoxy resin, as well as primer for repainting the hull would everyone recommend?

If any rivets leak you can try bucking solid rivets. There are some examples on the forum here or you can try and check Youtube on how to buck rivets.

Over rivet epoxy for the hull would be Coat it or Gluv it. Honestly the comparison on the products is moot. Coat it dries gray and Gluv it I believe dries clear? The cost for Coat it is less. I went with Coat it myself. It was nice seeing where the product was and was not when finished.

The Epoxy I used was Progressive epoxy. I added the link to their site. They cost less that West systems and I find the product to be very good. Please do the research on the suppliers sites. They all tend to be very helpful to questions you may have.

Another two cents. If there are any voids on the edges of your deck/transom cut outs I'd recommend filling those openings with Marine Tex. Then apply your coats of epoxy. It is just an addition to prevent water penetration.

Good luck! Looking forward to more posts.
 

macsmith777

Seaman
Joined
Sep 14, 2017
Messages
53
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Thanks Harry, I appreciate the info. I will do the water test this weekend to see what is up. I'll check out how to buck the rivets and will seal everything below waterline on the inside. I don't expect much as I said, the PO was using it with little to no issue and everything appears/feels solid. I tested paint removal with an orbital sander on one side and stripper/scraper on the other. The stripper is horrible stuff and took off the top layer easily, but the avocado green original was much tougher. I am going to stick with the sander, and if some pale green areas remain, I think that after 44 years it is not likely to go anywhere, so I will prime/paint right over any residual.

Once I remove the paint on the bottom, is it reasonable to apply coat it/gluvit or 5200 smoothly over the rivets and then sand as needed and paint over them? That would seem to be a pretty good way to help with leaks.

Here are a few pics of the latest. The transom was a massive PIA and did not come out in one piece nicely. That said, I am not concerned at all about building a new one. As you can see, there is some repair to be done to the knee brace, as well as the gunwales. Fortunately I have made the acquaintance of a good welder here in town.
 

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Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
Messages
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5200 is great when used to create a water tight seal between 2 objects and is also a super tough adhesive but it is not a good choice to apply on top of something. Use the 5200 to seal through the hull fittings, bolts, new rivets and even patches when needed.

Gluvit goes on the inside of the boat over rivet bucktails and in particular the seams with special attention to the keel area. If a rivet is loose or damaged making it leak then no type of coating will make it stop leaking for long, it has to be replaced or re-bucked at least.
 

bwingler57

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 24, 2017
Messages
79
Hey Mac, Are you making progress? Would like to see the other boat you got.
 

macsmith777

Seaman
Joined
Sep 14, 2017
Messages
53
Hey there, yes, I am making slow but steady progress. I have the transom and about 50 percent of then topsides sanded to bare metal. It is a slow and messy process, but strangely relaxing. I tend to work at the end of the day, so pics are tough during the week. I have it outside so as to cut down on the mess in the shop. This weekend I will be making a big push to get as much of the exterior sanded as possible, and then on to prepping the inside and doing a leak test. Tonight or tomorrow I will get some pics out of the other boat. I am still ruminating on what to do with that. I think with a few hundred bucks and some elbow grease, I can flip that one and perhaps profit 700-1000 bucks. It would pay for my motor on the project. Given that my goal is a crabbing/fishing boat, I may want to keep the decks as open as possible and have a tiller steering arrangement. Thankfully I have time to make that decision.

How about you? Any progress? Oh, do you have a name, 57? ; )

Mac
 

bwingler57

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 24, 2017
Messages
79
How about you? Any progress? Oh, do you have a name, 57? ; )

Mac
Lol no it is still the same on my name, i will be posting an update this weekend. my knee brace on the boat is shot, picked up a center punch and a good 3/16 drill bit yesterday to take them out to get the knee brace removed.
 

macsmith777

Seaman
Joined
Sep 14, 2017
Messages
53
No Title

Here are a couple of the donor boat, which may actually be the flipper boat. I think a quick sanding to get the base halfway decent, and a paint job for all the topsides, combined with an extensive power wash and polishing would go a long way to selling it. The floor has been done and has new marine carpet. The motor runs great too. I bought it for the motor, but the bracket that holds it to the transom really extends further down than I want, and would require some additional wood added to the back of my main project. I think a light 35 hp 2S tiller is what I want. If done right, I should be able to profit a fair bit from the Jupiter, and use the funds to find a great motor for the Mariner. I think I have acquired an addiction!
 

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macsmith777

Seaman
Joined
Sep 14, 2017
Messages
53
Does anyone know the purpose of the eye bolt that runs through the knee brace? I am going to remove it as it is rusty, but do I need to replace it? If so, it will be stainless.. I am curious if it is a support thing or what?
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,747
No purpose for an iron eye bolt running through the knee brace, that's a PO add on for some stupid reason only he knows.
 

macsmith777

Seaman
Joined
Sep 14, 2017
Messages
53
No Title

Thanks Watermann.. I could not figure it out.. It's fugly and will soon be gone.

So I spent the morning manning the orbital and now have all the decking and topsides above the chines done (detail work with the drill brush not withstanding). My neighbor said I looked like a Martian. I am going to spend the balance of my time today giving her a good power wash and build some wide stands to place her on upside down. I was considering rigging a pulley in the shop to lift the boat off the trailer, but in reality, it is pretty light and I think I can do the tilting trailer trick and jus lift it. Flipping should be no big deal with me, wife, and a friend.

I keep telling myself that this part is the dues to be paid for the fun woodworking to come.
 

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Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,747
Ugg, I hate sanding, especially riveted boats. Jasco stripper and a pressure washer is more to my liking.

Yeah should be easy to flip with 2 guys lifting up, another person to balance the boat while you 2 go around and lower it down.
 
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