Missouri 1983 SuperSport 16

Laker99

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Feb 27, 2013
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Does anyone know what the measurement is for the width of the transom at the chines? I found a brochure online that says the beam is 76" wide. I believe that measurement is taken at the dash area up top. I'm going to look at a SS16 and take my trailer to bring it home if I like it. My trailer is for a vee bottom boat and is 75" between the fenders. It's 16' from the bow roller to the end of the bunk. There is no motor on this boat so I'm not worried about length. I have a pretty good drive to get this boat home and want to make sure the it fits and is secure. Thanks.
 

No-AH

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The spacing of the inner chines on my 16' holi is 44" dead center. If I understand yr question the spacing for the bunks on yr trailer should be either inside or outside of such chines. For me, I would set the bunks so that they're inside of the chines. Spacing them at 42" [outside to outside of bunk boards]



The 44" measurement is reflected at the #11 reference in the image
 
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jbcurt00

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No-Ah, I suspect Laker is refering to the width of the hull down at the chines (hull 'corner' between hull sides and hull bottom) where it needs to fit between the trailer fenders, which is 75in.

I'd expect the.max boat beam to be thru the helm, w a taper towards the transom along the boats length plus a slight angle of the hull from gunwale down to the chine.

The fenders arent likely to be up near the helm at the max boat beam, so, w out owning a 1985 SS16 to physically measure or checking the 1985 specs to confirm your 76in beam measurement, my answer is yes, the SS16 is likely to fit between the fenders.

And even more likely to fit the 16ft bow stop to end of bunk dimension.

The bunk spacing, height and placement against the hull may not be absolutely correct though. Hopefully the pick up timing allows you some bunk adjustment time before the drive home.

Good luck and happy hauling.
 

Laker99

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What I meant is the total width of the transom or stern at the bottom corner to corner. I always called the hard edge corner where the sides meet the bottom as the chine. Maybe I'm using the wrong boat terminology here. I have a trailer that is 75 inches in between the fenders so I'm trying to figure out if a 16' Super Sport will fit between the fenders. I'm not too worried about the bunk adjustments for the ride home because I figure I can strap it down real good. Thanks for helping out here.
 

Bwana Don

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No-Ah, I suspect Laker is refering to the width of the hull down at the chines (hull 'corner' between hull sides and hull bottom) where it needs to fit between the trailer fenders, which is 75in.

I'd expect the.max boat beam to be thru the helm, w a taper towards the transom along the boats length plus a slight angle of the hull from gunwale down to the chine.

The fenders arent likely to be up near the helm at the max boat beam, so, w out owning a 1985 SS16 to physically measure or checking the 1985 specs to confirm your 76in beam measurement, my answer is yes, the SS16 is likely to fit between the fenders.

And even more likely to fit the 16ft bow stop to end of bunk dimension.

The bunk spacing, height and placement against the hull may not be absolutely correct though. Hopefully the pick up timing allows you some bunk adjustment time before the drive home.

Good luck and happy hauling.
JB is right. Should fit, tie her down and bring it back.
 

No-AH

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Oh sorry jb, thought he was referring to the bunk placement....
Laker, going back to the sketch, #4 to #4 on the corner the bottom is 64" [spacing between outer most edges is 64"] on the holi.
So jb is right on with that it will fit with room to spare between yr fenders.
 
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jbcurt00

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What I meant is the total width of the transom or stern at the bottom corner to corner. I always called the hard edge corner where the sides meet the bottom as the chine. Maybe I'm using the wrong boat terminology here.
You are correct about the chine
I have a trailer that is 75 inches in between the fenders so I'm trying to figure out if a 16' Super Sport will fit between the fenders.

As I (Thanks for the conformation Bwana) and BD said:
Yep should fit no problem.
 

Laker99

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Well, I drug this baby home yesterday. Who would have believed it would be 74 degrees in Southern MN on Feb 18th? The boat turned out to be a little rougher than I thought but I bought it anyway and brought it home on my trailer. I have a 1980 Merc 80 HP for it. The boat had been sitting outside uncovered for four years so the interior is shot. It was full of ice, leaves, sticks, you name it. I cleaned all of the leaves out of it and got it to drain. I think its 500 pounds lighter now. I had a few hours today so I did a little demo and got the big water logged items like the seats and some of the upholstery out. I put it in the garage, put the nose way high and turned the heart up to 80 degrees and put a box fan in the boat. I figure it will easier to tear the rest of the interior and floor out when it's dry. Because it was one big soggy mess to clean it up this much.

​This one has the injected foam under the floor. I'll have to see what that looks like when the floor comes out. I'm also not using the live box helm seat so I wonder if I should try to plug those thru the hull fittings or just cap them off. I think this boat might have been trailered a lot on gravel roads and the tow vehicle showered the hull with gravel. There are lots of chips in the paint. I like this paint design but it's a decal which seems too complicated to recreate with paint. I am definitely going to have to flip the hull and sand extensively or strip it.

​My plan is to get it gutted and stick it in the shed until summer when I have more time to work on it. I may start making some of the interior panels since I can do that at home in my workshop in the basement. The hull will be in the shed at the lake which is 90 minutes away for the next couple of months. Maybe it will be dried out by June!
 

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Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Oh yeah that's great you ended up getting the SS and saving her from neglect. Looks like you have some fun to look forward too. :thumb:

fetch
 

Laker99

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Feb 27, 2013
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The garage was like a sauna with the moisture cooking out of her. Windows were sweating. And that was after I gutted seats and some upholstery. I guess sitting full of snow will do that.
 

Laker99

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I've been able to work on this for the past couple of days for a few hours and have made pretty good progress on the demo like they say on HGTV. I'm lucky to have a heated garage and took one slip to work on the boat and got permission from the admiral to let my truck sit out. I got the floor out today and the old floor is in good enough shape to use for templates. It was completely rotten. Ironically the transom seems solid but I am going to replace it too since I have everything torn apart to this degree. The injected foam certainly dammed up the water drainage as I had water standing in places and you could certainly see where it had wicked into the wood floor causing it to rot. I'm thinking about eliminating the floor ski locker and filling the whole center with the sheet Styrofoam. I pulled out about two 35 gallon trash bags of injected foam from under the floor. There were obviously voids in the bag but that would be about 70 gallons at 8 pounds per gallon of water so about 500 pounds of flotation under the floor. I'm thinking if I do this I may not need the foam they had on each side under the splash well. I would rather have that space for fuel, storage, battery etc. I was also thinking about building a little storage area across the front of the splashwell about 10 inches deep. I had a ski locker like this on a pontoon boat and it worked out great. I think I will probably go with a 5/8" floor. The foam they had in the gunwales was all perfect and I may use that again even though it is not closed cell. It's all cut to fit, angled, etc. and if it hasn't been a problem the past 30 years I'm thinking I may reuse it.

​Next step is to power wash the hull. I'll see how far Goo Gone and Simply Green gets me. I was encouraged by how well this little paint scraper worked getting up the injected foam, carpet glue, and carpet backing. Did I read that some people have used Acetone for the final cleanup? I'm thinking a wire brush on a drill might work pretty well. I didn't check closely but I didn't see any loose rivets.
 

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Watermann

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Now there's a right of passage! :lol:

Keep going forward is the name of the game. You may want to choose a name for your restoration project and have a MOD change the title for you so you can just keep going. I'm sure a number of guys who usually come by are not doing so because of the thread title, they don't know you;re actually working on your SS.
 

Laker99

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Feb 27, 2013
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I was thinking the same thing. I'll have to figure out how to do that!
 

No-AH

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Nice progress 99. Time for the teeteetotter water test, that'll find the leaky rivets for ya. When doing the 'wire brush thingy' make sure you use a stainless wire and not steel....and it is safe to use acetone to clean but just damp cloth only. I used a farm grade vinegar and worked perfectly. Pm mods, jbcurt00 or GA_Boater to rename your thread
 

ezmobee

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Mar 26, 2007
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Nice hull! Injected foam is a pain but it looks like yours popped out way easier than some have had to deal with. What are your plans for a motor?
 

Laker99

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Feb 27, 2013
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Yes, the foam popped out pretty easily. Kind of like they used Pam spray. What didn't come up is coming off nicely with the paint scraper. I would like to hit all of this with a power washer but its a little cool for that today - 45 degrees. I have a 1980 Merc 80HP with TNT that I plan to use. The motor hasn't been run for a couple of years so I hope it fires up. I fogged the cylinders and all so it should be good.
 

Laker99

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Feb 27, 2013
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OK....I've clicked around here and don't see a way to contact a moderator. Anyone know how to do that so I can change the title of this? Thanks.
 

jbcurt00

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You cant change the title, but I can. What fo you want the title changed to?

Did you want it moved too?
 
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