What Amp fuse for dual LIve Well (06 Explorer Sport 1700)

rebmo

Seaman
Joined
Jul 2, 2007
Messages
60
I have been having trouble with my live well ciruit blowing the fuse on my 2006 Lund Explorer Sport 1700. I replaced the blown 5Amp fuse and tried it a home and it works fine of water. As soon as it's in the water the fuse blows. I replaced it today with a 10Amp fuse and the livewell pump works fine. The motor runs nice & cool and no wiring gets hot. The fuse holder is not marked with a Amp rating so I have no idea what the correct fuse is. Can anyone advise how many Amp fuse is used for their Livewell pump circuit? Mine is only a fil pump with overflow and manual/auto recirculate. Appreciate any references. Thanks.
 
Joined
Feb 17, 2012
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2,906
5 amp should be a big enough fuse and if it has worked in the past on 5 amps then it should work forever that way. It sounds like the filter is either plugged or the pump is on its last legs. (front seal fails then water gets into the pump and causes corrosion which will lead to it melting the case).
 

fishrdan

Admiral
Joined
Jan 25, 2008
Messages
6,989
5 amp should be a big enough fuse and if it has worked in the past on 5 amps then it should work forever that way. It sounds like the filter is either plugged or the pump is on its last legs. (front seal fails then water gets into the pump and causes corrosion which will lead to it melting the case).

^^^ That's where I'd look, sounds like the beginning signs of the pump failing.

My livewell pump went bad and I ripped it apart to see what went bad, water intrusion,,, and I couldn't believe what a rinky-dink seal they used to keep the water out.
 

rebmo

Seaman
Joined
Jul 2, 2007
Messages
60
Thanks for the replies. I wasn't sure of the original since it came with a blown 5 Amp and wasn't sure what it was supposed to be. It did work out of water with a hose connection on the intake and a new 5 amp, but in the water this week the 5 Amp blew. With the 10 Amp (I know may not be safe if wrong Amp) there was no hot motor/pump or wires and it ran 2 days straight for minnows and a 28" Walleye my 12 year old son caught.

I assume based on the advice received that the pump may be on it's last legs and it's probably due for replacement. I may have taken a risk that I don't recommend for others using a 10 Amp if a 5 Amp is what works. Since the comments so far indicate the original pumps are not too robust, are there any recommendations on a replacement? I'll have to pull it and try to match the specs. I can go to the dealer and get a replacement but don't want the same one if there are better pumps out there. I don't mind paying more for a robust pump.

Thanks for any advice. Reb
 
Joined
Feb 17, 2012
Messages
2,906
Thanks for the replies. I wasn't sure of the original since it came with a blown 5 Amp and wasn't sure what it was supposed to be. It did work out of water with a hose connection on the intake and a new 5 amp, but in the water this week the 5 Amp blew. With the 10 Amp (I know may not be safe if wrong Amp) there was no hot motor/pump or wires and it ran 2 days straight for minnows and a 28" Walleye my 12 year old son caught.

I assume based on the advice received that the pump may be on it's last legs and it's probably due for replacement. I may have taken a risk that I don't recommend for others using a 10 Amp if a 5 Amp is what works. Since the comments so far indicate the original pumps are not too robust, are there any recommendations on a replacement? I'll have to pull it and try to match the specs. I can go to the dealer and get a replacement but don't want the same one if there are better pumps out there. I don't mind paying more for a robust pump.

Thanks for any advice. Reb

The fuse protects the wire not the item so 10 amps isn't a fix but its not that dangerous either. 20-30 amp fuse would be a different story as the wire would melt before the fuse went. The funny thing is most pumps are rated as 6amps at rotor lock yet fuses are either 5 or 7.5 so most people fuse at 5 then if it blows you get to clean the pump and go again. With the 7.5 the pump may rotor lock and melt. (rotor lock is where the pump fails to turn so all 6amps are converted to heat)
 

rebmo

Seaman
Joined
Jul 2, 2007
Messages
60
Thanks for the fuse info. I'm going to pull the pump and check/clean it. I know I did it last year after a fail on the water discovering the original fuse blown. It worked fine on a new 5amp out of the water with hose water going in the back inlet via an adapter. It is strange that it works fine with a 10 amp and runs relatively quiet and efficiently filling both wells and running on auto for 2 days. I remember there used to be "slo-blow" fuses for my bass guitar amp that took the surge at start up. I suppose it could be on the edge of failure so I'll probably just replace it at 8 years old. I actually felt spoiled I have to say with 2 live wells running. My last boat was a 72 Lund 14' center console with a 50hp Johnson and I sold it running strong and carefully updated 2 years ago. The lake was my tank.I was so impressed with that Lund that I stayed Lund loyal and my wife really loves this one with the full windshield and quiet 4 stroke and comfortable seats. But I digress, I just need to tidy up this live well motor and figure out the bilge to feel safe (see my other post). Thanks again for the advice. .

BTW, Lets see some more posts on this forum. Lunds are GREAT boats and I'm used to sharing interests and solutions with others.
 

rebmo

Seaman
Joined
Jul 2, 2007
Messages
60
The livewell pump in my boat is a Mayfair Marine 500 GPM 2 wire. Simple removal of the motor/pump cartridge. I ordered a new motor/pump cartridge and I'll try that. It was only about $25 shipped and a very simple replacement. I'll post back and update when I get the new one installed and see if it runs/pumps without blowing a 5Amp fuse.

Thanks for the references and info.

Reb
 

rebmo

Seaman
Joined
Jul 2, 2007
Messages
60
OK, today I Installed my model 2855 Johnson cartridge pump to replace my 500gph dual livewell pump. Pretty simple setup and cheap replacement $25. There are connector plugs for easy swap out. Although, I changed the connector plugs to ones I had, but no need to if you have or get the matching spade connectors. I did notice my old pump had blown the 10amp fuse I had put in as well so good thing I'm replacing that pump. The new pump, and it is a new model pump replacing my original pump, has a 2.5amp draw, use 5amp fuse on the pump. So I did the replacement, checked it out, and it works fine with a 5amp fuse. These replaceable cartridge pumps are very simple to change, low cost, and effective pumps. Kudos Lund. Hope to get another 8 years out of this pump. I can see where it's quite easy to clean the pump housing too, very nice.

Reb
 

snowman48047

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 24, 2008
Messages
371
The livewell pump on my Alaskan is dying also, 13 years old. Mine came with a 3amp fuse and this year I upped it to 5amp just so I coould use it a half dozen times. My pump will also get replaced in the spring.
 
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