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87 ebbtide 140 v4, need some transom help...I think

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  • 87 ebbtide 140 v4, need some transom help...I think

    I have a 87 ebbtide that had the bilge pump go out, I bought another and went to replace... While replacing I decided to replace the livewell pump also since they are both located under the gas tank. I removed the thru-hull fitting for the livewell pump and noticed the wood was mush...I can stick a screw driver roughly and inch in all directions. What to do? I would guess replace the wood...but thats more work then I can handle at the moment. Is there a easier fix or a temporay fix that may hold till winter? Also if I decide to replace the wood do i have to replace the transom wood too...its solid. Here are some pictures: Click image for larger version

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  • #2
    Re: 87 ebbtide 140 v4, need some transom help...I think

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    • #3
      Re: 87 ebbtide 140 v4, need some transom help...I think

      I just traded for a dyna-trak 180 bass boat and im just about to start a complete renovation on it. I've split the deck already and im ready to seperate it. I've redone a 16 foot hydra sport from the stringers up and it wasn't too bad so im hoping this one will be just as easy. Good luck withn yours.


      • #4
        Re: 87 ebbtide 140 v4, need some transom help...I think

        Maybe someone can help me.... It's been some time since I posted here but I bought a new house and this project was put on hold. I now am back on it and I have a question about removing the top from the hull. I've read where the hull can distort upon doing such and this has me concerned. My plan to combat this is to leave it on the trailer, drill two holes on each side of the boat, running thread rod through a two x four and the boat. Basically the boat hull would be sandwiched between the two x fours. is this a good idea? Or is hull distortion not that big of a problem?


        • #5
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          Re: 87 ebbtide 140 v4, need some transom help...I think

          You should ask a Mod to condense your thread(s) down to just 1. Having 2 places w/ the same question, can get confusing as you get advice, ask followup questions, and particularly for anyone that finds 1 but not the other later......

          Hull distortion is a problem if your hull has any flex in it at all w/ the cap removed. If it moves, or sags even slightly, it becomes difficult to reinstall the cap. Worse it affects the performance of the hull if it sags and puts a hook or twist into the hull.

          Remotely via the internet & thru limited pix, it would be difficult to know absolutely w/ out question yes or no, so the fall back answer tends to be: YES, your hull needs additional support when you remove structural elements. Any or all of these Deck, transom, stringers or cap....

          If you wish to put thru holes in your boat, & use threaded rod, you can. Depending on the exact shape & length of your hull, 2 rods may or may not be enough. As the sides of the boat attempt to sag away from each other after cap removal, the bottom of the hull can also distort, so you want to be sure the underside has sufficient support as well.

          Since you have a bunk trailer, building a better cradle around the existing trailer is an option some have used. Many prefer to build a cradle that puts the boat lower to the ground & easier to get in & out of and maneuver around the garage/yard. Others have removed the axle assembly & added casters to the trailer to achieve the same result.

          If you don't need to address the lower hull areas or make any repairs & re-shoot gelcoat or paint the bottom of the hull, it's often less work to improve the support via the trailer then to build a cradle..............

          My 15' (actually slightly under) Glastron has an incredibly lightweight & flimsy hull. Once the cap is off, I won't be surprised if I need lots of lower hull support, and 4 or 5 cross braces to keep the hull width correct for the cap to fit.

          My brace plan is to use correctly cut lengths of 1X3's w/ a flatwasher & screw thru a rubrail screw hole (no extra holes thru the hull). If I need to remove 1 to work on the deck or transom (wood-free stringers so I don't have to replace them), I can take 1 brace down temporarily. I have taken LOTS & LOTS of pix & measurements to keep the hull spaced correctly while I work.

          If your boat has consoles, make sure to crossbrace them before you lift the cap, and if possible remove the windshield. Lots of weight & not a lot of structure to support the consoles & windshield when you pull the cap............

          Read thru some of the larger (#of posts) threads, you'll see lots of ways to support your hull, consoles, & cap...

          Welcome back to the iboats dry dock.

          oops, while I was here posting, Jig & Frisco posted in your other thread, quoted here:
          Originally posted by Antihero27 View Post
          I have a 87 ebbtide where I am planing to replace stringers and transom. The removing of the top from the hull has me concerned though. I've read where people talk of the hull expanding out upon removal of top and to combat this I thought I would make a two x four sandwich running two 3/8 threaded rod between the sides of the boat. This would require four small holes to be drilled at the rub rail area, but that could be easily patched. Is this a good idea? Or is this being overly concerned? Is it really a big problem?
          EDIT: In the resto forum would be the best place for this, where you started the other thread I linked above, for you to get the most help...........
          Money spent @ Boat Restoration should be measured in Smiles & Pride SHOP IBOATS-BOAT SPECS-FORUM HELP-REPAIR/RESTO