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Any Crestliner Kodiak owners out there?

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  • Any Crestliner Kodiak owners out there?

    Looking for other folks that are running a Crestliner Kodiak?

    Would love to get some suggestions on how to run some battery leads from the bow to the stern because I've been at it for a few days and taken half the boat apart in the process - can't figure it out!

  • #2
    Have a kodiak 16. Still trying to figure it out? You could run them along the control side rail. Or depending on the load the stern battery has leads under the dash panel. Otherwise you have to pull the floor up do a little drilling. Why are you running the cable?


    • #3
      Hmm...didn't notice the battery leads under the console in the fuse panel - I will definitely have to check that out. I mounted a NOCO onboard battery charger up in the bow compartment which houses the trolling motor battery. It's got two banks, so I wanted to connect the second bank to the cranking battery. I had every floor panel in the boat up - no way to drop it down from the casting deck to get it to run under the flooring, and I didn't want it exposed running along the side rail. I can, however, get it at least to the console so I'll check the leads there - didn't know it had battery leads there. Wonder if that would be suitable for connecting the charging leads from the charger?


      • #4
        Was poking around today as I am looking to relocate my trolling battery to the stern. In the trolling motor battery box in the bow there are two holes in the frame for running wire. looks like it would be pretty easy to run them through there around the live well to the console. At the console I would install the circuit breaker and continue the cable run in the control pan on the side. let you know next spring how that went!


        • #5
          I had most of the boat apart, and I know the holes you're referring to. I can tell you this - up in the bow, there's a large conduit that runs up to the front of the bow, and the wiring for the bow light comes up through it, I assume from the console. I also know that this same conduit exits out the stern, bottom of the transom. I ran a fish tape from the bow down into that conduit. When it gets to a certain point just around where the upper deck drops to the lower deck, the fish tape drops and it won't follow through to the stern, so that conduit branches off, and there's no way to get to it since it's under all the foam that the boat is packed with.

          There's also a way to get the wire in the gunnel (if you feel back by the stern where the gunnel meets, it's open there. However, I would have to expose the wire from the bow compartment to get it up in the gunnel, though I guess I could do that in the very front of the bow in the storage compartment. Seems difficult. I had every piece of floor up and couldn't find a way back there.

          I believe the onboard charger would need to be directly connected to the cranking battery, so I can't connect to the leads at the fuse box.

          Wiring up my trolling motor battery was simple - just would love to be able to use the second bank of the charger to hit the cranking battery.

          If you come up with anything, let me know -

          FYI when you pull the flooring up, some panels are difficult to get back in - takes a lot of fooling around to get everything back together. Also I noticed when doing this that some of the screws holding my seat bases were stripped so I fixed those while I was at it. So much for quality control!


          • #6
            Also - the hole that goes back through the battery compartment goes to the storage compartment behind it - then, behind those compartments is foam back to the console. Had the floor up here as well -only floorboard I didn't take up was the one that the console is mounted to since the wire harness comes up through the floor and there is no slack in it.


            • #7
              Moved my batteries to the back. Ran the cables along the rail on the underside. Easy, quick. You already have wires and controls running along there too the console. By the way the harness from the motor has all the necessary connections for optional gauges under the dash.


              • #8
                In terms of optional guages, do you see a lead for a trim guage in the harness and is it terminated at the console already?
                Last edited by NJKodiak; September 9th, 2014, 06:32 PM.


                • #9
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                  Wiring colors for Mercury outboards below. Its the same harness whether you have gauges or not. Some will end under the dash the rest behind the motor control on the side.
                  Mercury/Mariner Standard Outboard Wiring Color Code
                  Color Where Used / Function
                  Black All Ground
                  Brown Reference Electrode MerCathode System
                  Orange Anode Electrode MerCathode System
                  Lt. Blue/White Stripe Trim UP Switch
                  Lt. Green/White Stripe Trim DOWN Switch
                  Brown/White Stripe Trim Sender to Trim Gauge
                  Purple/White Stripe Trim "Trailer" Switch
                  Gray Tachometer Signal
                  Black/Yellow Stripe Shorting or Stop Circuit
                  Pink Fuel Sender to Gauge
                  Red Unprotected Wire from Battery
                  Red/Purple Stripe Protected (Fused) Wire from Battery
                  Red/Purple Stripe Protected (12 Volt +) to Trim Panel Control
                  Purple Ignition (Switch) to 12 Volt Positive
                  Tan Temperature Switch to Warning Horn
                  Tan Temperature Sender to Temperature Gauge
                  Tan/Blue Stripe Temperature Switch to Warning Horn
                  Yellow Starter Solenoid to Starter Motor
                  Yellow Starter to Regulator (Charging Circuit)
                  Yellow/Red Stripe Start Switch to Start Solenoid to Neutral Start Switch
                  Yellow/Black Stripe Choke (Enrichener System)
                  Green with Color Stripe Switch Box to Coil - Striped and Numbered
                  White/Black Stripe Bias Circuit (Switch Boxes)