Chris Craft, input wanted?

bajaunderground

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Re: Chris Craft, input wanted?

Looks doable. I used Veada for my new seats as well as sheet vinyl for the replacement sunpad, side panels, etc. My original seats were ply based and totally rotten. The Veada seats are plastic framed, so rot will never happen, During the boating season Veada get backed up, but off season they can turn orders round pretty quick.

I used veada.com for my Baja LINK
The seats in the CC are plastic framing, so 100% reusable.

It'll make a nice winter project!
 

erie_guy

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Re: Chris Craft, input wanted?

Because of my own stupidity I cracked my 302 Mercruiser 888 block - way back in 1976. We did not discover the failure until the next season when the oil filler started regurgitating yellow slime. That ended a day on the water quickly.

The next weekend was spent switching all engine components from the old, cracked block to a new Ford "bare block". This included cam shaft, drive shaft, pistons & bearings. If I remember the bare block contained the cam bearings. It took all weekend and a chain hoist attached to the garage ceiling beams. Pulled the old engine up and out of the hull, pulled the boat out of the garage then lowered the engine to the garage floor where the change-over was accomplished. I had to let the air out of the trailer tires to get the boat out of the garage because it was too high with the engine weight removed. Reversed the procedure once the engine was reassembled and was out on the lake the following weekend. Cost was about $150 for the Ford bare block and $50 worth of gaskets. I forgot the freeze plugs were steel and had to replace them two years later while in the boat (what a pain).

That was back in 1976, so bare blocks for the 302 may no longer be available from your Ford dealer. Would save you a bit of cash if you can find one and do the wrenching yourself. I believe the engine is still in service someplace in Michigan.

Just my $.02.

erie_guy
Port Clinton, OH
 

bajaunderground

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Re: Chris Craft, input wanted?

Because of my own stupidity I cracked my 302 Mercruiser 888 block - way back in 1976. We did not discover the failure until the next season when the oil filler started regurgitating yellow slime. That ended a day on the water quickly.

The next weekend was spent switching all engine components from the old, cracked block to a new Ford "bare block". This included cam shaft, drive shaft, pistons & bearings. If I remember the bare block contained the cam bearings. It took all weekend and a chain hoist attached to the garage ceiling beams. Pulled the old engine up and out of the hull, pulled the boat out of the garage then lowered the engine to the garage floor where the change-over was accomplished. I had to let the air out of the trailer tires to get the boat out of the garage because it was too high with the engine weight removed. Reversed the procedure once the engine was reassembled and was out on the lake the following weekend. Cost was about $150 for the Ford bare block and $50 worth of gaskets. I forgot the freeze plugs were steel and had to replace them two years later while in the boat (what a pain).

That was back in 1976, so bare blocks for the 302 may no longer be available from your Ford dealer. Would save you a bit of cash if you can find one and do the wrenching yourself. I believe the engine is still in service someplace in Michigan.

Just my $.02.

erie_guy
Port Clinton, OH

I was thinking of doing all the wrenching? But given some of the specialized tools required I'm gonna shop around for a long block (marine)?! Even at $1,200?! I can bolt on all the Volvo Penta stuff with new gaskets and reinstall in a weekend! My only reservation is getting motor out and back in? I have a beam in my garage that should hold the weight, clearance might be an issue? I'll measure it out before and decide? I have friends with shops I most likely can borrow?! I'll keep this thread updated with progress!
~Brett
 

haulnazz15

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Re: Chris Craft, input wanted?

You are correct that most any 302 block will work. However, they changed the firing order on the 302 in the mid-80's to the 351w pattern (1-3-7) I believe, which will be dictated by the camshaft. The mid-80's 302's were also designed to be able to use roller rockers and a roller cam. Either engine will "work", but your plug firing order will be determined by the cam that is in the engine so just be aware of it. Nothing wrong with calling Rapido or US Engines and getting that $1,200 long block. That's what I did with my 351w, and it runs like a top.

I also used a standard engine hoist and simply removed the tires off one side of the trailer and lowered it down with a floor jack in order to clear the side rail of the boat. Not as convenient as a true a-frame, but I trust it more than I trust a few 2x6's in the ceiling.
 

bajaunderground

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Re: Chris Craft, input wanted?

You are correct that most any 302 block will work. However, they changed the firing order on the 302 in the mid-80's to the 351w pattern (1-3-7) I believe, which will be dictated by the camshaft. The mid-80's 302's were also designed to be able to use roller rockers and a roller cam. Either engine will "work", but your plug firing order will be determined by the cam that is in the engine so just be aware of it. Nothing wrong with calling Rapido or US Engines and getting that $1,200 long block. That's what I did with my 351w, and it runs like a top.

I also used a standard engine hoist and simply removed the tires off one side of the trailer and lowered it down with a floor jack in order to clear the side rail of the boat. Not as convenient as a true a-frame, but I trust it more than I trust a few 2x6's in the ceiling.

Thanks for the advice...duly noted!

As far as block goes, I'll reuse my cam (or get one similar) and utilize all the parts on my VP...I have a cherry picker available, so more than likely I pull it to a buddies work shop and yank it out.

~Brett
 

duped

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Re: Chris Craft, input wanted?

Build a gantry!

51D9DA14-DA6B-41FE-AAD0-6928BA0A79A8-62198-00000CF4F5312BA8_zps5c3bddb3.jpg


As a bonus, you have one hell of a swingset when you're done!
 

bajaunderground

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Re: Chris Craft, input wanted?

Build a gantry!

51D9DA14-DA6B-41FE-AAD0-6928BA0A79A8-62198-00000CF4F5312BA8_zps5c3bddb3.jpg


As a bonus, you have one hell of a swingset when you're done!

While I concur a gantry would get the job done..I lack the space nor driveway for one! My driveway is at a 20* up slope towards the house and the side yards have big maple and Spruce trees...

I have a saying I've adopted over the years...

I've done so much with so little for so long, I can pretty much do anything with nothing!

~Brett
 

bajaunderground

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Re: Chris Craft, input wanted?

So I met with a local engine rebuilder today...we discussed the block/water infiltration/remanufactured etc...

He was certain the block/heads and most likely the intake would all have cracks from a freeze up!

I wasn't willing to pull the trigger on a long block until I knew wether the heads and intake were bad?! So I told him I'd pull them and be back later?!

Went home pulled out boat and went to town pull belts/ exhaust and accessories off to gain access to manifold and heads! After 2 hours of pulling, labeling and recording all the parts!

Took heads and manifold back to the guy and he agrees the heads and manifolds looked fine? So I pulled the trigger on a new short block...$950! With any luck I'll have it back on Friday or Monday and get all the good parts swapped and reinstalled! I'll post pics of the huge crack (it's between cylinder's 5-6)!!

~Brett
 

haulnazz15

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Re: Chris Craft, input wanted?

I would still make sure to have the heads rebuilt with new seals and such. It's not expensive and would prevent any oil burning issues later on related to valve stem seals. Springs should be inspected as well.
 

bajaunderground

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Re: Chris Craft, input wanted?

I would still make sure to have the heads rebuilt with new seals and such. It's not expensive and would prevent any oil burning issues later on related to valve stem seals. Springs should be inspected as well.

The engine only has 283hours on it...I've ordered a short block and will use the heads as they stand...a less frugal person might spend the time to have the heads rebuilt...I'm not one of them. Mind you this is after speaking with the engine re-builder and his opinion (which he inspected and agreed the heads look good!) I have no reason to suspect otherwise?!

So...here's the cracked block...Global warming is moving much too slow!!!

Cracked Block.jpg

~Brett
 

banshee owner

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Re: Chris Craft, input wanted?

being an automotive mechanic that is one heavy duty crack. i would have to wonder how water stayed that far up in the water jacket.
 

Volphin

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Re: Chris Craft, input wanted?

The engine only has 283hours on it...I've ordered a short block and will use the heads as they stand...a less frugal person might spend the time to have the heads rebuilt...I'm not one of them. Mind you this is after speaking with the engine re-builder and his opinion (which he inspected and agreed the heads look good!) I have no reason to suspect otherwise?!

So...here's the cracked block...Global warming is moving much too slow!!!

View attachment 213279

~Brett

Ug! That is one heavy duty crack! If you are not going to rebuild the heads, at least have them pressure checked and if OK, buy new valve seals and install them yourself. $15 worth of parts. Pop each valve out when you do and clean with a wire wheel on the curved bell shaped base where carbon accumulates. Reassemble and bolt em up. :)
 

Maclin

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Re: Chris Craft, input wanted?

Very nice project boat, I hope the interior structure is good enough to not cause grief and need to rebuild. I like your approach so far. Personally I would have the heads freshened up professionally. I think you will be glad you spent the extra time and $ up front once you get it on the water and enjoying it.
 

bajaunderground

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Re: Chris Craft, input wanted?

Hey guys thanks for chiming in...I appreciate your thoughts and ideas, but I'll clean up heads and bolt them back on! I may disassemble today and check seats and carbon built up? I hit the bottom of each valve with a wire brush and the build-up there seemed minimal?! This was a good running engine prior to and even after the freeze out! If you read some if my previous posts you'd see that after 5+ years of sitting the motor started and sounded healthy...while that's not conclusive to meaning the heads are fine, but I'm willing to take the small risk if not having the heads rebuilt?! I'm on a budget and the extra $ is not in the cards at this time...besides I can always buy a remanufactured motor in 5+ years and still feel okay with my purchase and how much I have into the boat...but I do agree with you guys?! I'm fairly talented with a wrench and have built a few engines and trannies of the years with good success?!

If I get the short block today, then it all goes back in tomorrow/Sunday!

As my old chief used to say...'parts is parts!'

As far as the interior structure goes, the floor is solid (will check stringers when I get the motor pulled the rest of the way). The bench seat base and sunpad looked as if the plywood backing might be bad?! After letting sit in my garage for A week I think they'll be salvageable? I'll just reseal with some enamel paint or clear epoxy paint and recover with foam and then vinyl?! I'll document as I progress?!

Ciao,
~Brett
 

LippCJ7

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Re: Chris Craft, input wanted?

Are you shooting for an October splash?

I thought you were doing a winter project?

Looks great Bud!
 

hungupthespikes

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Re: Chris Craft, input wanted?

Before you put that engine together at least do a deck test on the heads. If it checks out,... your good, ...if not then you will save your self some headaches.

Just the first part, it will show you how to check with a straight edge and gauges.

Cylinder Head 103 - Deck Tech - YouTube

huts
 

bajaunderground

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Re: Chris Craft, input wanted?

Before you put that engine together at least do a deck test on the heads. If it checks out,... your good, ...if not then you will save your self some headaches.

Just the first part, it will show you how to check with a straight edge and gauges.

Cylinder Head 103 - Deck Tech - YouTube

huts

Done! I will note the head gaskets were also intact (meaning no break or signs of leakage...Ford 302's are notorious for having weaker heads and typically they will warp long before the head gaskets blow). I should mention that this isn't my first rebuild/partial rebuild and the basics, while just that...basic, cannot be over looked! The rocker assembly will be properly cleaned and re-torqued, the gasket surfaces will be cleaned, filed and wire brushed, the bolts will all be cleaned (I would replace if I felt required). All new gaskets installed...except valve covers, they're silicon and can be re-used as longs as there's no cracks...which there are none to the visible eye!

This motor is exteriorly clean, there were no outward signs of leaks from oil...the only visible signs of a freeze-up was the 4 (of 6) block casting plugs (freeze plugs)...that and the 10+ quarts of water in the pan!!! LOL! After pulling all the lifters and rods the cam looked rust free...If for any moment I'm not liking what I'm seeing, I will replace/rebuild as needed. I've replaced many heads that looked far worse than these (these actually looked new under the valve covers...no sludge/build-up and no surface rust!)

I'm a baller on a budget, B****~Daniel Tosh

~Brett
 

bajaunderground

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Re: Chris Craft, input wanted?

Are you shooting for an October splash?

I thought you were doing a winter project?

Looks great Bud!


Yes...I'm hoping for a dry run (wet run?) before I tackle the interior...It'll make it easier to sell on the wife if she's running...
 

hungupthespikes

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Re: Chris Craft, input wanted?

Brett, you sound like you got it under control. :whoo:

huts
 
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