2006 chevy 2500 anti locks question.

jakedaawg

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the 2006 diesel chevy has a new issue, you hit the brakes and only if all the anti locks kick in the pedal sucks down to the floor and wont release til the truck stops...usually after spinning a 180...FML. I just replaced all the brake lines so I wonder if I got one in the wrong port of the divider block???
 

89retta

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Replace the ABS sensors on the front wheel hubs. Or if you haven't done the front hubs replace the whole assembly
 

alldodge

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Did you bleed all the air out of the lines, starting with RR, then LR, RF, LF?
 

jakedaawg

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Front hub assembly's are less than an year old...at several hundred apiece I need to make sure...thanks, and I will look into it.

yes, bled well. However, i understand the distribution block for the abs can be tricky to bleed without the scan tool...
 

89retta

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I'm sure you did this but have you checked the brake fluid level ? Maybe it sucked some air in while you were bleeding them
 

jakedaawg

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We are going to bleed via scan tool method shortly...my scan tool wont do it but a friend has one that will.

the link posted above makes sense as I have fine brakes unless the abs is actively pulsing, must still be air in there. I have always had good luck with a power bleed but this time maybe not...I also like this idea because the idiot light is not on. When a sensor fails I usually know I'll be replacing a hub shortly as the light comes on. I have so many of these darn trucks I actually keep a couple hubs in the parts room. This one has the Salter, no plow, but I fear we may need it soon.
 

dolluper

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You really don't need a scan tool to bleed the brakes start at the right rear pull the bleeder completely out let it drip with pan below. Complete by installing bleeder back in do the same on the rest. This way it's a one man job. Keep the level up in the master each wheel. It's possible you have lost your bleed in the master so you may have to bleed the master to get great brake pressure again . That was my first thought the master needs bleeding. Guess you let drain out while replacing the lines right.
 

jakedaawg

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You really don't need a scan tool to bleed the brakes start at the right rear pull the bleeder completely out let it drip with pan below. Complete by installing bleeder back in do the same on the rest. This way it's a one man job. Keep the level up in the master each wheel. It's possible you have lost your bleed in the master so you may have to bleed the master to get great brake pressure again . That was my first thought the master needs bleeding. Guess you let drain out while replacing the lines right.

Yes, did that. The issue is bleeding the abs solenoids and valving. You have to be able to actuate the various circuits while bleeding. The scan tool allows you to do so. When the hard lines were replaced I had everything disconnected. That allowed the abs unit to drain.

As it is now, it brakes perfectly unless the abs comes on.
 

dolluper

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post-53878-1220762991.gif This may help if in you think you mixed up lines .Remember front input as marked here is the rear or right line at MASTER
 

jakedaawg

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The solution: I traced the lines as per the above drawing, took it apart and hooked them up correctly. Bled it. All good now. Thanks for the drawing.
 

jakedaawg

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dolluper thanks...that drawing and the note about rear port being the front of master was the issue I believe. Works better than new now.
 

jakedaawg

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I just find it funny that I have done so many of these chevy/GMC trucks and never had a bleeding problem. Turns out dolluper was correct and my truck mechanic not so much...in all fairness I never take many trucks to him, we tend to do everything ourselves.
 

dolluper

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I usually tell people the right is the left ...and the left is the right. Being wrenching over 50 years now.. Only other little trick is after you finish bleeding get a helper pump hold peddle and fast crack each line at MASTER. A little air can get traped there. Glad your up and running
 

KD4UPL

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My '05 Chevy 3500 recently had a brake line rust thru. I was helping my mechanic friend with the repair. He bled everything the "normal" way, by pumping the pedal. The brakes still felt soft. Then, he hooked up his scan tool and did the power bleed with it. It made a big difference in pedal feel.
 

dolluper

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Some vehicles do require mode 6 bleeding.but not many . Gravity bleedING solves most except corvette. Height plays a factor!
 
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