Acrylic Enamel question

[Redfred1]

The spoiler on the Admiral's new to her Mustang had some bad flake marks on it. Took it off; got it smoothed and primed Gray. Got a quart of Dark Mineral Gray Metallic paint (PC TK). Sprayed 5 coats on; and it drys a lighter color. Got back with the paint people; they gracelessly gave me another quart. Told a neighbor about it. He took it and had it done; still came back lighter. It's Sherwin Williams paint; good reducer; weather decent; all coats dried over night. Hoping Mr.Wood or some body got a clue what's wrong.

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[MTboatguy]

Did you make sure you gave them the correct color code off the specifications sticker on the car. Often times dealing with fiberglass and plastics, if it is not the exact match color that the factory used, it will dry darker or lighter. Also did you clear coat it, the final appearance on many of the modern paints depends on that clear coat, which often times is not a hundred percent clear, it will be an off color a tad bit. Then take into account paint ages as well, even a year old car is very difficult to match because it has been in the elements over that year and when you try to match it, it won't happen.

Even custom matching services can't always match aged paint correctly. What year is the car?

 

[Scott Danforth]

did not see where you clear coated the paint. factory paint is a Base/Clear

did you have the paint color matched?

 

[Redfred1]

Thanks for the fast responses! I gave the paint code (TK) in first post.
No I haven't. clear coated yet.;was going to get the paint right first; but will. Didn't think the CC would change the color that much; but we will see. The car is a '02 Mustang; paint does not look faded. The paint matches under the hood with a test spot. The only thing I didn't do was add hardener; but can.
Not trying to get off topic; but the car has a Dealer emblem the Admiral wants off. What will cut the glue and not harm the paint? Thanks for the help.

Scott; hope you made it through the H OK?

 

[MTboatguy]

I use a heat gun set on low to get stickers and emblems off, the use a citrus oil based groop off type product to clean any residue from the glue tape off, then apply a coat of wax back on the area to protect the paint.

As far as aged, if it is a 2002 model car it has paint aging on the body, just from UV as well as environmental contaminants exposure, as far as seeing the difference between underhood and surface paint, our eyes are not that good to actually see the small subtle changes that occur over time.

If you are going to clear coat, go to a good quality body shop, ask them what the best product to use for the clear coat to get the best match possible, they will know exactly what Ford was using that year to paint their vehicles as well as what they were using to clear coat their base paint, as we normally can't bake the refinished parts like Ford did in their factory paint shops, it will fade quicker than the factory paint did and will probably start to match closer within a few months, but be careful around the spoiler because the paint will also be softer than the rest of the car.

Good luck.

 

[Redfred1]

Everything you say makes sense! My 75 year old eyes are not that sharp. Will do some checking with Ford. Worse thing that can happen is she might have to live with the mismatch.
I have some Goop hand cleaner and a good heat gun. Will try using it with a plastic putty knife.
Thanks to all with their advice!!

 

[Scott Danforth]

dental floss works to remove old emblems. with good factory paint, usually acetone will remove the glue and not touch the adhesive. However I normally just roll it off with my thumb.

a 16 year old car will have faded as MT stated.

clear will change the color. take some of your thinner and wipe the surface and quickly look. same as if you wet it with water. it darkens the color a bit.

 

[Redfred1]

dental floss works to remove old emblems. with good factory paint, usually acetone will remove the glue and not touch the adhesive. However I normally just roll it off with my thumb.

a 16 year old car will have faded as MT stated.

clear will change the color. take some of your thinner and wipe the surface and quickly look. same as if you wet it with water. it darkens the color a bit.

Good thought Scott. I got some carpet thread; will try that!

 

[Redfred1]

Scott; thanks for the tip! Carpet thread and GoJo worked perfect!

 

[sphelps]

Dental floss to remove stickers ? Hmmm how does that work .. I have a camper with some of the stickers cracking and fading ... Just kinda get it started then get the floss between sticker and the paint ?
‘Sorry Red , small highjack the d/f thing has me thinking ..

 

[Scott Danforth]

Emblems, not stickers

 

[Redfred1]

What Scott said! Don't know what kind of paint is on a camper (Guessing aluminum); but it looks thin. I would try a heat gun and plastic putty knife. That is a thought; not a cure.

Scott; 3 more coats af paint and 3 coats of CC worked close;close; close. I'm happy; she's happy. Thanks for the help..TJ

 

[MTboatguy]

Dental floss to remove stickers ? Hmmm how does that work .. I have a camper with some of the stickers cracking and fading ... Just kinda get it started then get the floss between sticker and the paint ?
‘Sorry Red , small highjack the d/f thing has me thinking ..

Heat gun and hand cleaner will normally take those off and not the hand cleaner with pumice in it, you want the hand cream type hand cleaner and lightly rub after you heat it up. The paint on aluminum RV siding is very thin and the aged paint is easy to remove with just about anything that you rub it with but the heat gun creme hand cleaner will remove the stickers. Normally you can find a spray paint that will be a real close match to what they put on the aluminum siding to begin with.

What brand and year of RV is it, I might be able to look the paint code up, I have an extensive collection of older RV paint codes around here.

 

[sphelps]

Sorry , I read stickers and emblems and thought that was what the d/f took off . :facepalm:
‘It’s a2013 Thor Freedom Elite 31’ class C ..
I think it’s fiberglass ... Funny the dark gray and black stickers look fine . It’s just the mustard yellow looking ones are all faded and cracked ...

 

[MTboatguy]

Sorry , I read stickers and emblems and thought that was what the d/f took off . :facepalm:
‘It’s a2013 Thor Freedom Elite 31’ class C ..
I think it’s fiberglass ... Funny the dark gray and black stickers look fine . It’s just the mustard yellow looking ones are all faded and cracked ...

The different colors absorb UV rays at different rates, which is why most of the RV companies have gone to the darker logo stickers, Winnebago has has a heck of a problem over the years with their stickers shrinking and cracking.

If it is filon siding, then you are going to want to use a heat gun on low setting on a sunny day if possible to roll the bad ones off, filon is not normally painted, the color is a gel coat or it is embedded in the siding, but I have also had good luck using warm water, dawn dishwashing liquid and a heat gun to get them off of filon, you will have the non-faded filon underneath and will still be able to see where those stickers were when you remove them, it will take a couple of years for them to fade and start blending in.