'03 Ford Ranger problem.

Redfred1

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Sep 23, 2013
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I have a '03 Ford Ranger XLT; 3.0; 2WD; automatic 87K miles. The check engine and ABS light came on. Have taken to 2 ORileys and 2 Auto Zone. Scan tool shows all 4 are different.They show:
Vacuum leak
O2 sensor
Oxygen sensor
EGR valve
PVC valve
Fuel filter
Bad plug wires
Cylinder misfire left bank
Brake vacuum booster
Checked master cylinder; was a tablespoon low. Reset computer.
Next day light came on again.
Front pads and rotors turned last year; rears OK Fuel and air filters changed yearly. Replaced ignition coil (Autolite) a few years ago. Engine runs smooth; no shake; has always idled a little high but not excessive.
There can't be that much stuff bad. Anybody got a clue? Afraid to take to a Dealer
 

jakedaawg

Rear Admiral
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Jun 26, 2012
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4,275
I have never seen a pcv code, not saying its not possible. Also never seen a fuel filter code.

o2 sensor is classic check engine light issue. They are all bad and dont last. Known to the state of California to cost you money.

ABS is often a speed sensor in the hubs if that's where they are on fords...

Has your mileage gotten worse lately?
 

MTboatguy

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I would replace the O2 sensors in it and if you actually have a ABS sensor bad, they normally at the one in the rear end that goes bad. On my Explorers I normally replaced the O2 sensors about once a year. I never had a wheel specific ABS go back but I sure had a lot of the ABS sensors in the rear end go bad.

Another thing to look at FIRST is the Mass air flow sensor, if it goes bad, it will throw all kinds of codes, if it is not getting the correct air intake, it makes the truck act as if everything has gone bad. My wife bought a Subaru last summer and the check engine light was on, I checked it with my OBII computer and it threw 11 different codes, I replaced the Mass Air Flow sensor and it cleared all of them except the front O2 sensor, I replaced it and have not thrown a code since.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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There is a TSB on ford mass air flow sensors. Dirt and pollen make it thru the filter and dirty up the sensor. A bit of electronic cleaner and that normally goes away.

OBD codes are what is normally read at auto stores. Not BCM, or HVAC or ABS. Need a proper scan tool to see any of the other modules
 

Redfred1

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Sep 23, 2013
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Thanks for the tips; cuts down on the list. Will try the easier stuff first. Did notice that spraying carb cleaner on vacuum hose to the brake booster makes the engine speed up; then slow back down.
The light kept coming on the '03 Ford S/C 4.6. Scan showed temperature sensor switch.Shops could not locate. Dealer did; 85 bucks to diagnose; estimate $1500 to repair. Seems like the switch is located under the intake.Can't see it; but its there. That was years ago; went off by itself.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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intake on a modular motor is fairly easy to remove.
 

southkogs

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For grins, you can try a new gas cap. On all of mine, that cap can effect a reading in the vacuum system. Changing the cap worked on one of mine, but not the other. I've got one in the shop for the same reason right now. Couldn't figure it out.
 

BWR1953

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Jan 23, 2009
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5,802
This is gonna seem weird, but check the brake light switch at the pedal. Because your ABS light is on, it makes me think...

I've had several newer vehicles that had all kinds of sensors grounded to that pedal switch. The switch goes bad and all the lights come on! It was especially annoying on my 2003 Audi Allroad. The car suddenly dropped power, all kinds of warning lights came on and I had to limp it home. Called the dealer who said that the airbag suspension was probably bad and would need work. Price anywhere from $3,000 to $5000 depending on what was wrong.

So I went online and searched and searched and finally found someone who said to replace the brake light switch. My mechanic was reluctant especially since the twin-turbo motor warning was on as well. But he replaced the switch and everything went back to normal! :eek:

I traded the car shortly thereafter. :p

Back in the 90s I had a Mitsubishi Eclipse that had the windshield washer fluid level and turbo warning light interconnected! :rolleyes:
 

MTboatguy

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There is a TSB on ford mass air flow sensors. Dirt and pollen make it thru the filter and dirty up the sensor. A bit of electronic cleaner and that normally goes away.

OBD codes are what is normally read at auto stores. Not BCM, or HVAC or ABS. Need a proper scan tool to see any of the other modules

Autozone and O'Reilly has all the different scanners and they use them all when you ask them to see what is causing your check engine light.
 

Redfred1

Chief Petty Officer
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Sep 23, 2013
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629
More suggestions; keep them coming!
Scott: that word "fairly" is close to "leary". Would have considered it years back. And Ford was guessing at the location. most are in plain view. Gas cap is no problem;part of yearly inspection..Cure is WD40 on the cap. ABS light has not come back on yet. Can spray contact cleaner on switch and check it,
I don't mind changing parts; but there are too many might be's and could be's to start changing parts; could be wasted money..
Ford forum says vacuum leak because of high idle. Will keep updating; I'll tell you what its not. Thanks for the help!
 

Tassie 1

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Apr 13, 2018
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581
Throw the scanner thing out the window.
Problems gone.
turn radio up.
slow down a tad.
 

DECK SWABBER 58

Lieutenant Commander
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Aug 14, 2009
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1,913
Never ever let a parts store diagnose a check engine light. They are in the parts business, they are not technicians.:facepalm:
 

Redfred1

Chief Petty Officer
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Sep 23, 2013
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629
That's why I got so many scans. Haven't had a chance to even start to troubleshoot .With the heat; Admiral's and my Dr. appt;; I have spent $1000 bucks; and still have 2 sick trucks. Will update when I can.
 
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