Any body here know anything about Tile?

jakedaawg

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jun 26, 2012
Messages
4,275
Well, would like to tile the kitchen floor. Cant afford to pay someone so I am thinking of attempting myself.

Right now I have vinyl. Subfloor is a single layer of OSB on 2x10 joists that span 12'. Is it possible to lay tile on this with out it cracking? I understand the vinyl goes away first.

I also wonder about the transition to the bottom of the doors and lso to other rooms where there is carpet. I assume the tile could end up being quite a bit higher and a possible tripping hazard?

Any one know of a good information source to educate myself on how to do it well?
 

JASinIL2006

Vice Admiral
Joined
Feb 10, 2012
Messages
5,524
I would not lay tile on top of only OSB. I would want plywood to minimize flex. You MIGHT be able to get away with laying something like a Hardibackerboard (a cementitious form of masonite, essentially) on top of the OSB, but that by itself might not be enough. You need an subfloor with some rigidity, even when using a surfacing board (like Hardibackerboard), and I don't think OSB will do it.

I have laid tile in an old house laying the backer board over a subfloor, but the subfloor was 3/4 old growth pine that was really stiff.

If you have any flex at all, you will quickly develop cracks in your grout lines and/or have tiles pop up.

Can't advise you much about the transition from carpet to tile... generally, you can find threshold pieces that help with that.
 

MTboatguy

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Jul 8, 2010
Messages
8,988
You need to first figure out the load bearing capacity of the area you will be setting tile, there is more than just the weight of the tile to take into consideration, you have to figure the weight of the tile, the backer board(under layment), the glue as well as the grout that you will put down to finish it. You may need to grind the edges of the tile to make your transitions and such, not often do you, but I have seen it done before. One of my best friends was a tile man before he passed away and did it for a long time.

But first you need to figure out the engineering aspects of the floor you will be laying the tile on, you might need to beef it up with a couple of joists between what is currently there.
 

southkogs

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 7, 2010
Messages
14,785
Did one of my bathrooms a couple of years ago, and it was honestly pretty easy. Went from linoleum to tile. And I had zero experience with tile at the time.

Transition to the carpet was pretty easy: I used bullnose tiles at the door frame, and met the carpet edge. I don't know about your 12' span. I definitely didn't have that wide of a span (room wasn't even that big).

I think the next couple of rooms will use the vinyl stuff. I've seen some of those that I really like, and the wife likes it better than ceramic anyway. MUCH easier to install.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
47,304
agreed, need plywood vs OSB and a layer of backer board under the tile.

a threshold is a perfect transition from tile to carpet
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
24,829
Schluter Ditra systems offers an uncoupling membrane that is intended to prevent tile and grout from cracking 1. Never been hands on w it, but seen it installed on projects I was involved w. Same w the rolled orange fabric they offer for waterproofing, not sure if it adds crack resistance.

A firm, stable base is vital long term, 1/4in hardibacker or similar would be a good idea, but does add weight and raise the height of the final finished floor.
 

jakedaawg

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jun 26, 2012
Messages
4,275
It is glued. Doubtful that it screwed, probably nailed or stapled. It's a BOCA cape cod style manufactured by Redman homes and was shipped here and put on the foundation.

kind of knew I was getting screwed when I bought but it was the best idea back in 02.
 

jakedaawg

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jun 26, 2012
Messages
4,275
It's paid for so I may just have to live with vinyl. I hate it though. Really like the porcelain wood grain tiles.
 

bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
Messages
30,454
It's paid for so I may just have to live with vinyl. I hate it though. Really like the porcelain wood grain tiles.
Yes, I have that tile in my vacation house. Looks awesome.
kitchen1.jpg
 

JASinIL2006

Vice Admiral
Joined
Feb 10, 2012
Messages
5,524
I still think it would have too much flex for tile, esp. on 16" centers.

jakedaawg, I don't know if you've looked recently, but there are some pretty nice vinyls out there now. I saw a wood-grained vinyl not long ago that completely looked like a hardwood floor. I was impressed. Cheap vinyl will look/wear like cheap vinyl, but some of the nice stuff is pretty cool.
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
40,582
I have the same 2x10 and 16 OC, and installed ceramic tile direct on 1x6 tongue and groove floor. Did use some liquid floor leveler for a few dips. Floors been down for 18 years and no issues.

Carpet comes straight up to the tile and tucks in without a transition strip. While I do have a saw cut edge, this is not an issue with walking or bare feet. I used something like a herringbone pattern and is the reason I had so much cutting going on. If you plan the lay out with full tiles, the factory edge is beveled and makes it even better.

Check the floor for flatness then calculate how much weight you will add be sq ft. Might want to use this stuff
https://prosupplycenter.com/product...Lezv_SDUwab_pkZ7BZXcNpJ1bkcpCY5BoCObYQAvD_BwE
 

MTboatguy

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Jul 8, 2010
Messages
8,988
I would beef it underneath, OSB is strong stuff but it still has flex that plywood decking does not. I would pick up some 2x10 and cripple stud it underneath about every 4 feet, then put down hardi backer underlayment. Should stiffen it up so you don't get any flex and make for a good base to attach tiles to.

Also remember you are going to have to cut tiles as well, so you will need a wet tile saw, even the worst wet tile saw is better than trying to snap tile. I picked one up at the local pawn shop for about $20 bucks and did all of our tile work and it was fine. I also have a diamond cutting wheel for my dremel that works great for those small or irregular cuts to go around things.
 
Last edited:
Top