Using copper anti-seize on spark plug threads

[Chryslerman123]

I recently installed new spark plugs in my:
Chrysler Outboard with aluminum head
lawnmower with a magnesium head,
Honda Accord with aluminum head,
And my Chevrolet truck with steel heads.
I used permatex copper anti-seize on all of those spark plugs. Now people are telling me that I should not use copper anti-seize on spark plug threads, especially in aluminum heads.
The description for the copper anti-seize says it is fine for spark plugs.
So I need some opinions from you guys who are sure to know a thing or two about spark plugs.
Thanks!

 

[NewfieDan]

The copper anti-seize in the aluminum heads can cause a reaction between the two dissimilar metals. This is called galvanic corrosion. Over time, the heads can be seriously damaged from this. I would remove the spark plugs and clean the threads as best as possible.

 

[Grub54891]

I've never used anything on spark plugs. Never has an issue. They do have torque values for them, then they come out properly.

 

[dingbat]

Would, could and can are the key words here.

Copper and aluminum in an electrolyte would cause corrison issues in a short period of time.

Copper and aluminum, under the right environmental conditions could cause corrosion.

In reality, it all comes down to the type of aluminum alloy used to cast the block. Not knowing the alloy composition or all the environental factors in play, I would remove the copper from the scenario why I can.

 

[bigdee]

Yes anti-seize is a good thing on anything that has to be dis-assembled. Your just using the wrong type for that application.....use aluminum or nickel anti-seize.

 

[jimbo_jwc]

Had a tough time removing a starter from 71 ford camper special and learned why not to smear copper/alum flake never seize all over snout and mounting flange of starter. I thought I had a bad one from Auto zone only to find out after removing and testing with jumper cables that it was not conductive enough on the ground .Who would of thought with all the flakes of Cu/Alm in it .Sparkplugs need a good clean dry thread for this connection too.

 

[bigdee]

Had a tough time removing a starter from 71 ford camper special and learned why not to smear copper/alum flake never seize all over snout and mounting flange of starter. I thought I had a bad one from Auto zone only to find out after removing and testing with jumper cables that it was not conductive enough on the ground .Who would of thought with all the flakes of Cu/Alm in it .Sparkplugs need a good clean dry thread for this connection too.

Not an issue with plugs because high voltage/low current.

 

[Chryslerman123]

Why does the can of anti-seize specifically say that it is safe for use on aluminum?

 

[bruceb58]

Why does the can of anti-seize specifically say that it is safe for use on aluminum?

Because it is fine. Keep using it.

Is it this?
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-091...=1485583935&sr=8-1&keywords=copper+anti-seize

 

[jimbo_jwc]

Not an issue with plugs because high voltage/low current.

To much of a good thing isn't always good . You will tend to over torq ,not good on aluminum heads . I'm going to test /measure the resistance on next junk weedwacker just for my own reference we might be surprised because on the starter I learned the hard way it was enough to not even make the solenoid contactor do anything as I got carried away from how hard it was to remove .On those Fords you pulled it out after removing the tire through the wheel well .Yes Low voltage higher current on coil for solenoid .I just use a very minute amount on motors that don't get new plugs till bad .

 

[Fun Times]

Only after reading all the spark plug manufacturers recommended advice below should you find the need (or desire) to use Anti-Seize due to installing spark plugs that are made without the special metal plating also described below and would prefer a different formulated Anti-Seize other than copper to help resist galvanic corrosion, How about considering using a Marine Grade Anti-Seize...http://www.boatingmag.com/prevent-en...ade-anti-seize

NGK recommends only using spark plugs with metal plating on all aluminum head applications to prevent damage to the head and plug. Metal shell plating acts as a “lubricant” which breaks away from the main body of the spark plug during removal, preventing damage to the spark plug and or threads in the cylinder head.

5 Things You Should Know About NGK Spark Plugs
1. Anti-seize
NGK spark plugs feature what is known as trivalent plating. This silver-or-chrome colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without the use of anti-seize. NGK tech support has received a number of tech calls from installers who have over-tightened spark plugs because of the use of anti-seize. Anti-seize compound can act as a lubricant altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage.
Some must reads from NGK,
Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs
Tech Bulletin - Anti-Seize Compounds on Spark Plug Threads
https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/
http://www.ngkplugpro.ca/en/bulletins.php

2. Corona stain
Corona stain is observed as a light brown or tan discoloration above the hex (located on the ceramic body of the spark plug). Corona stain is created by oil or dirt particles surrounding the spark plug. Spark plugs create a high amount of static electricity as they fire, attracting these particles to the exposed ceramic between the plug boot and the hex. Corona stain is completely normal and should not be mistaken for exhaust gas blow-by or broken seals inside the spark plug.
3. Gapping fine-wire spark plugs
In the late 1980s, when fine-wire spark plugs first appeared, installers used incorrect gap tools and procedures resulting in bent or broken-off firing electrodes. As a result, many people assumed that one cannot adjust the gap on a precious metal plug. While most NGK spark plugs are pre-gapped, there are instances where the gap requires modification. NGK recommends a wire-style or feeler gage gap tool, which can adjust the gap without prying against the center electrode. NGK also recommends adjusting the gap no more than +/- 0.008” from the preset gap... Guidelines for gapping new spark plugs
4. Torque
Torque is critical in the plug’s ability to dissipate heat and perform properly. Always follow the manufacturer’s recommended torque specification. An under-torqued spark plug can lead to excessive vibration and improper heat dissipation, causing spark plug and/or engine damage. An over-torqued spark plug may cause thread damage or breakage, or compromise internal seals within the spark plug, leading to improper heat dissipation or exhaust gas blow-by.
5.“Copper plugs”
“Copper spark plugs” is a term mistakenly used for a standard material spark plug. A standard material spark plug traditionally uses a nickel-alloy outer material fused to a copper core. Almost all spark plugs use a copper core center to conduct the electricity, jump the gap, and promote heat dissipation. However, as an outer electrode material, copper would not be a good choice, as it is soft and has a low melting point (resulting in a plug that would last minutes, not miles). Nearly all NGK spark plugs, including precious metals iridium and platinum, have a copper core. When one talks in terms of nickel alloys, platinum and iridium, one is referring to its durability, or how long a spark plug will last before it needs to be replaced. However, when one talks about copper, he or she is referring to its ability to conduct electricity that is needed to fire across the gap and ignite the air-fuel mixture.

Autolite
We do not recommend the use of any anti seize products for installing spark plugs. Anti-seize compounds are typically composed of metallic, electrically conductive ingredients. If anti seize compounds come in contact with the core nose of the plugs, it can lead to a misfire condition. Anti seize compounds can also have a torque multiplying effect when installing plugs. This can lead to thread distortion and thread galling resulting in cylinder head damage. Autolite spark plugs are nickel plated to resist the effects of corrosion and seizing. However, plug seizure is aggravated further when steel plugs are installed into aluminum cylinder heads for a long period of time.

AC/Delco
Do not use any type of anti-seize compound on spark plug threads. Doing this will decrease the amount of friction between the threads. The result of the lowered friction is that when the spark plug is torqued to the proper specification, the spark plug is turned too far into the cylinder head. This increases the likelihood of pulling or stripping the threads in the cylinder head. Over-tightening of a spark plug can cause stretching of the spark plug shell and could allow blowby to pass through the gasket seal between the shell and insulator. Over-tightening also results in extremely difficult removal.

Champion
The following material is excerpted from the Champion Spark Plug Handbook. It can be accessed at:
http://dodgeram.info/Engine-Gas/Spar...plghnbook.html

Champion spark plug shells (the threaded part) use an extruded steel to maintain exact tolerances. The extruded shell goes through a cold rolling process to form the threads. This prevents sharp edges which could cut new threads into aluminum cylinder heads. Once the shell is formed and threaded, it is zinc-plated to extend its life and reduce the chances of seizure in aluminum cylinder heads. Our latest technology combines Tin Tac" and ULTRASEAL'M coatings over the plating to further reduce corrosion and seizure. Champion recommends that you do not use an anti-seize compound, since one has already been applied to the plugs at the factory.

Denso
If a thread lubricant such as grease is coated on the thread, tightening to the recommended torque is tightening too much;
this has been linked to seal leakage.
Do not use a thread lubricant.
http://www.globaldenso.com/en/produc...ion/index.html

Racing Spark Plug Installation:
Do not use anti-seize. To install spark plugs in the engine, first tighten them by fingers, then retighten with the right tightening torques as shown below, using a plug wrench. Either excessive tightness or looseness will cause troubles. Looseness sometimes causes pre-ignition because heat cannot disperse. On the other hand, excessive tightness can damage the threads of both the cylinder head and the spark plug."

E3
If anti-seize compound is to be used, it should be applied sparingly because this could foul the plug and produce excessive carbon build-up on the threads, as well as give off fumes once the engine reaches operating temperature.
http://e3sparkplugs.com/torque-chart

Bosch
If using anti-seize compound, use sparingly and reduce torque by 30%.
https://www.boschsparkplugs.net/learning-center/article/421/plug-torque-settings

Found one where Anti-Seize is recommended for Industrial use: Spark Plug Installtion instructions 031412 - Bosch Auto

General Note For Consideration:
Most head damage is caused by a ham handed mechanic who doesn't know what he is doing. Many plugs extend a thread or two into the combustion chamber and can have a buildup of carbon that will destroy aluminum threads if you try to force the plug out. Anti-seize will not prevent this and a reasonable person will stop at the first indication of tightness rather than jump up and down on the ratchet (or use a hammer) and destroy the threads.

So, the plug will appear to be seized by corrosion when actually the lower threads have carbon deposits. The plug can usually be removed easily without damage if you un-tighten it 1/8 to 1/4 turn and treat the threads with a mixture of 1/2 acetone and 1/2 power steering fluid (or other penetrating oil/fluid and/or carburetor cleaner). With luck, the mixture will be wicked into the threads and help soften the carbon. Let the plug sit over night and try again (working it back and forth, and if needed treat it again).

Install a plug by seating it finger tight and turning as specified by the manufacturer. This will provide the correct torque whether the spark plug threads are dry or treated with anti-seize. Engine oil or grease used to lubricate a spark plug thread (and in many anti-seize compounds) can carbonize and stick a plug. Misfire is also possible should anything used end up on/near the plugs firing end.

 

[Grub54891]

Thanks fun times, I read that years ago someplace o I stand with my previous statement that you just don't use it. I wish I could have found that info earlier to post here.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Great information Funtimes!

 

[bigdee]

Thanks Fun Times......good researched/documented info!

 

[Tim Frank]

Post #11 should be a sticky.

 

[bruceb58]

I will continue to use anti seize. After having a plug seize in an aluminum head, I never want to have that happen again.

I do reduce the torque by 20% when I use it. I always use a torque wrench when putting plugs in, especially aluminum heads. Most of the warnings above are for people over or under torquing their spark plugs. Everyone uses a torque wrench when putting in plugs right?

 

[Tim Frank]

Interesting that you reduce the torque by 20%....not 17% ....or 22%. Seems to defeat the point of using a torque wrench once you start guessing.

 

[bruceb58]

Interesting that you reduce the torque by 20%....not 17% ....or 22%. Seems to defeat the point of using a torque wrench once you start guessing.

Depends on what you are putting on the threads. For example, 20% is what Loctite suggests when using their product. There are engineering handbooks out there that specify the torque reduction depending on what you put on the threads.

 

[dolluper]

I must chirp in the voltages the ignition uses are very high for them to operate correctly the spark plug in the head acts as a ground in the head so use nothing and torque properly if not used to installing spark plugs

 

[Chryslerman123]

Because it is fine. Keep using it.

Is it this?
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-091...=1485583935&sr=8-1&keywords=copper+anti-seize

Yes, that is what I used.