Finally building an outdoor kitchen .May need some idea's /help .

sphelps

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Well after a few years of messing around with all my boat projects I really need to build this kitchen .. Been promising the Admiral so I guess it's time ..
It's going in an existing screened in porch . Been scratching my head on layout and other stuff but I have good idea on what I want to do with it .. I have framed up the hood area this weekend .. This is what I came up with ..


The plan is to let the smoke just flow through the screened opening at the moment but not sure how well that's going to work .. I would rather not put vent fans in if I can get away with it ..
The area with the bucket will be for a large burner for our big pot .. I plan on pouring a concrete base and side wall with a cast iron drain in the bottom for clean out purposes.

I'm gunna try my hand at doing concrete counters so if anyone has any experience I'm sure I'll need some guidance..
I have also picked up the floor tile I will be installing ... 12x12 slate .

I'll update as I work on this project if anyone is interested ..
 

jbcurt00

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Man, Sam, if ya want me to come by, all ya gotta do is ask. No need to buy a new outdoor griddle and build a whole outdoor kitchen too. :becky:

Looks good so far. Try

Www.instructables.com

For concrete countertop info.

I think there are both cast in place and molds that are built upside down, cast then flipped and installed like a typical countertop methods shown.
 

Scott Danforth

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You're going to need a blower to move the smoke, or be prepared to be washing the soot off your cabinets
 
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keith2k455

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I have that same tile in my house. .you'll like it. All else I have to say is WOW!

I agree with Scott, I doubt it will just flow out the screens. Is there going to be charcoal or propane used for cooking? I think you'll need a fan or something to flow like a chimney design for ventilation.
 

sphelps

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John maybe next time you drop by we can cook up something better than those pre made burgers on the grill in the rain .. :facepalm:
Scott it's not too late to add a vent fan just not sure what is needed or type of blower .. No charcoal grill is planed .. Just propane grill a 36 " griddle and the big burner ... And most likely another small burner ..
Keith , I have the same tile that goes around my porch on the house .. When ya put the wet look sealer on there the stuff really looks great and is not that expensive ..
That leads me to another ?
I have put concrete stain on the porch years ago ... I;m not sure if I need to remove the stain or just use a certain type mastic for the tile ... I have also got a few low spots that need filling and a few cracks that may need some attention before the tile ..
 

gm280

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Sam, You sound like me jumping from one project to another. I am trying my best to get the boat finished so we can redo almost every room in the house. At least that is my goal. We need to bring the rooms back into this century again. As usual, your work looks nice. :thumb:
 

jbcurt00

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Sam, in the work you do, ever use slip sheet under tile? Essentially it's vinyl sheet flooring, w out the printed pattern layer.

Lower cost, low profile option crack suppression then Ditra-Schluter's uncoupling system that adds 5/16" height. RedGuard (or similar) is another low profile option, but typically not low cost.

If the stain is also sealer, I'd also scuff it really well to ensure the mastic gets a good grip.
 

Decker83

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That is going to be awesome.. Getting some great advice do far..
Have a great week..
 

sphelps

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Sam, in the work you do, ever use slip sheet under tile? .

I've seen the tile guys use some type sheeting membrane under tile work before . Not sure what it was though .. The slab has been there for probably 24 years or so ... Thinking it has cracked all that it's gunna crack ... Just a few lines here and there .. Was hoping maybe some sort of mesh tape might help it from cracking back into the tile ...
 

kcassells

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Sam,
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brian4321

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I've been pouring concrete for 13 years but I've never done a concrete counter top so it'll be interesting for me to follow along and see how it turns out👍 Good luck and maybe I'll learn something new😃
 

keith2k455

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I'm not sure on the stain, but as far as the cracks you may want to put a laser level on it to make sure it hasn't settled. I assume the low spots are just finishing work that just needs built up, no biggie. You may want to verify that the cracks are only cracks and no significant settling has occurred, depending on how much of a perfectionist you are. I don't think any membrane or anything you put under the floor will keep it from cracking, but settling will make it crack fur sure.

Then again, if it does crack, it will probably be along the grout line and not be noticeable. I'd probably just sand the stain well and tile over as it is.
 

jbcurt00

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The D-S uncoupling system, RedGuard and slip sheeting will allow the concrete movement w out cracking the grout or tile, thats the whole point of using them.

None will prevent cracks caused by large amounts of lateral movement (widening of the crack) or vertical displacement ) changes in height) but will minimize it in those cases and prevent cracking due to minimal amounts of either.

Large tiled areas need ability to move esp if laid over expansion joints in the slab.

Ask archbuilder about the products he used in his master shower he did last year.
 

sphelps

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Thanks for the response guys ! These cracks are not wide or uneven . I'm not too concerned but it still might be a good idea to at least spot treat them just in case .. The low spots are definitely application error .. :facepalm: Me and a co-worker poured it some 20 years ago and neither one of us are concrete guys ..
We actually screeded it with a roof truss .. :pound:
It was the only thing long enough we could find in a pinch that would reach across the form boards .. And it was getting dark .. :facepalm: :lol:
 

Tim Frank

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Do a search on concrete counters and variations. There was a thread in here several years ago that had some great info.
 

brian4321

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Thanks for the response guys ! These cracks are not wide or uneven . I'm not too concerned but it still might be a good idea to at least spot treat them just in case .. The low spots are definitely application error .. :facepalm: Me and a co-worker poured it some 20 years ago and neither one of us are concrete guys ..
We actually screeded it with a roof truss .. :pound:
It was the only thing long enough we could find in a pinch that would reach across the form boards .. And it was getting dark .. :facepalm: :lol:

They actually make power truss screeds now that cost thousands of dollars...they probably got the idea from watching you and your coworker😂 wow I love the YouTube link...I may start pouring countertops instead parking lots😀
 

kcassells

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I wonder what the labor and material costs are in regards to buying a level 1,2 or 3 granite, already templated and installed with sink, corners, edge detail and faucet drillings. The granites have gotten so inexpensive. Alot of shops have left overs pretty cheap. I dig the concrete cause it smells less expensive. What are the dimensions Sam?
As with granite the boxes should be all plywood to take the weight and weather. NO Particle boards.
 

sphelps

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Brian , I would rather pour the counter tops too .. Parking lots don't sound very appealing to me ... :D
Kc , just guesstimating around 75 to 80 sq ft of counter ... I do have some granite left over from our kitchen but I don't have enough to do all of it ..
Been looking at wet polishing grinders .... I think the cheaper ones run around 150 bucks give or take ..

Here is the largest crack I'm dealing with on the floor ..

And I started framing the sink counter cabinet ..

Gunna frame a curved bar at around 42" high with more 36" high cabinets and counters on the inside of the bar .

I will be installing dura rock and tile most probably on the bases ...
 
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