Finally building an outdoor kitchen .May need some idea's /help .

[nurseman]

Looks like a good start! I like the look of the polished concrete tops myself. Any thoughts on a stain color?

 

[sphelps]

Any thoughts on a stain color?

So many different ways to go with it .. Idk yet ... probably just go with some natural looking shades/blends of brown , black .tans ..
I will for sure make a couple of test pieces before I stain the counters ... Just to make sure it passes the Admirals inspections ...
Cabinet doors I may try and make out of wood ... Stainless would be quite costly ...

 

[kcassells]

If you have some granite left over then you should be able to make a good match with new. plus you can typically get a "free" undermount steel bowl....ummmm
No stain, no finish dilemas, no uhohs.
Fab looks great, nice and weather proof. Are you adding a toe kick recess? typically 4.5" high and reduces foot/shoe scuffs vs, running straight down to the floor with cabs./doors.

 

[sphelps]

Hmmmm didn't think about a toe kick ..
Not too late I suppose..

 

[gm280]

Sam, seems you have the ability and some nice wood cabinet doors would be so easy to build. If you have a table saw, you can even build raised panel doors without the usual router bits needed. I just don't know if you have a router table or not. :noidea: But table saw raised panel doors are very nice looking and offer the same effect as router bit cut ones. JMHO!

 

[sphelps]

gm I do have a table saw but it's not the greatest thing in the world ... And somehow I have lost my rip fence for it . I got a router but haven't gotten off my rear end and built a table for it yet ... :facepalm:
I plan on going back and make the toe kicks as kc suggested .... Luckily he mentioned it before I got too far ahead on the framing . :fish:
Good catch kc !

 

[kcassells]

Hey That's what are friends for!:fish2:

Check out this link Sam. They are the nations biggest mfg. of cabinet doors. They make nearly every mfg's of cabinets doors.

http://www.conestogawood.com/product...t-popular.html

Exterior doors;
http://www.conestogawood.com/products/cabinet-doors-drawer-fronts/materials/polyethylene.html

 

[redneck joe]

We tinted the concrete when mixing it. 4 colors all mixed individually then when put in the forms in globs it creates a natural looking color variation. We also stick built our frames and used plastc sheeting as the release agent and the crinkles made some cool looking patterns. Ill get soms pic later

 

[sphelps]

That sounds interesting rj ...Looking for a kind of rustic look .. It needs to be relatively smooth but not necessarily polished perfect slick as glass smooth ...
Looking forward to some pics !

 

[redneck joe]

excuse the 1980's oak cabinets, painting them is on the list this year.

 

[redneck joe]

we used tan, black, regular, and some red (can't see here) to get the look. We stick built frames to the 3/4" underlayment (that is still there) with a brad nailer - peel right off. Then cut off plastic sheeting.

 

[redneck joe]

here is one area where the plastic bunched up creating texture.

 

[redneck joe]

And here is all. I apologize to no one for my cluttered kitchen; all my family and friend live here and this is our livingroom per se - it is well used and takes up 80% of the activity in our house. If you are at my house we are eating, drinking, and having fun - all in the kitchen.

 

[redneck joe]

now - would I do this in my main kitchen again? No, now that I make a dollar or two I'd do granite. For your project it is perfect imo. Couple things we did wrong - on the island it was a bit wide and when the concrete cured it pulled up - you can see a slight upwards curl on the left side in relation to the opposite cabinets. Not too bad but it is there..We should have added a rigid support underneath - in your pics doesn't look like that will be an issue for you tho.

We also used stucco mesh as the reinforcement but still got a nice crack just to the left of the orange towel. Actually its kinda cool and I like it.

We also didn't let cure long enough before applying finish plus we used a surface coat rather than a penetrating. It peels up every now and then on the sections used most. Once we reseal no big deal but it is a PIA to a certain extent. That said - the resulting look is way cool, especially for an outdoor kitchen. Look at the surface and it appears differently textured.

 

[jbcurt00]

Cluttered, carp that aint cluttered..... now I have to come back Joe, never made it outta the driveway..... thanks again BTW

Looks nice Joe

I've seen 4in or 6in typical slab wire grid used for countertops w a perimeter of 1/4in rebar w some runs tied back into the main part of the slab, esp at overhangs and large unsupported areas w no cabinet or plywood backer support like over dishwashers, inlaid cooktops, sinks and peninsulas.

 

[sphelps]

That looks great ! How thick did you pour ? . All the video's I have seen it seems like the mix is very dry and it gets smooshed into place .. I think I would want it a little less stiff .. Not runny just a bit more workable ..
The oak cabinets don't look bad at all ! And as far as clutter goes ... We all live in our houses ....And it seems the kitchen is the most used room in the house ..

 

[redneck joe]

2 inches thick and go as dry as you can, you've got time to work it.


Jb, as long as you dont bring a speedo, you know where we are...

 

[jbcurt00]

Man, thats a bummer, I had a real nice sleek and sexy black little speedo all picked out and ready to go....

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Maybe next years models will be a better fit......

 

[sphelps]

Nice speedo John !
I managed to get a good bit of the bar framed up ..

The recessed space in front I plan on installing some glass block that I had laying around ... And some back-lighting to kinda jazz it up a bit ..
And here is the inside counter area with toe kick .

This space will be for a small refrigerator.

Hope to get all the rest of it framed up this week after work ..
I was wondering what to use for the top base ... The bar will be around 20 to 24 inches wide ... Probably let it hang out the front 12 to 14 inches ... I was thinking maybe use 3/4" ply then screw 1/4" backer board over that to give the concrete something to stick to ... idk
Also been looking at stains .. Not sure if I want to acid stain or use dye ... Seems like a lot of different products out there .

 

[kcassells]

Might want to consider using 1/8" pc of flat steel to pick up the extended overhang. Also this will eliminate any knee braces so you legs won't be getting banged. The weight will eventually flex with the ply and crack. JMHO. If it were granite then your aforementioned application would work. Everywhere else just continue what your doing for support.