Castle nut square in the middle of the hole for the cotter pin when finger tight?

MarkSee

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Sep 10, 2010
Messages
1,172
After seating the outer bearing fully tight with the wrench then backing off and retightening/backing off several times, I found that when tightening the castle nut for the final time "finger tight", one of the nut crowns was smack in the middle of the cotter pin hole;m hence I could not install the cotter pin. Would it be better to slightly loosen the castle nut which then would make the washer loose to expose the cotter pin hole or tighten slightly with the wrench to expose the hole? When I took the original bearings off, I could not get them off with just my fingers and had to use a wrench but they were not on there overly tight but I would call it "very snug".
thanks
Mark
 

mich-fish

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 24, 2012
Messages
38
Re: Castle nut square in the middle of the hole for the cotter pin when finger tight?

I would tighten to the next hole. Castle nut should be more than finger tight.
 

UncleWillie

Captain
Joined
Oct 18, 2011
Messages
3,995
Re: Castle nut square in the middle of the hole for the cotter pin when finger tight?

Back it off!
It should be slightly Loose! :D

Typical Manufacturers instructions...

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

Final Castle Nut Adjustment:
  • To make sure the hub is seated properly, back off the castle nut until it is loose.
  • Then tighten the castle nut snugly until it stops.
  • Look to see where the cotter pin hole lines up with one of the notches on the nut.
    • On hubs that use the tang washer or cage to lock the nut, you will have to do this by sight.
  • Then back the nut off one notch, so that the cotter pin will fit through the castle nut.
  • Install the cotter pin and then spin and rock the hub.
    • When you rock the hub you should feel the hub barely moving front to back.
    • Try experimenting by loosening the castle nut one more notch to feel the difference in the play in the hub.
  • Then install the wheel and rock the hub again.
    • On the outside edge of the tire, the movement should not be more than 1/4" inch.
    • Any play should be barely noticeable.
  • When you are satisfied with the adjustment, secure the cotter pin.
    • Push the pin through the hole on the end of the spindle and through the notches on the nut.
    • Then split the bottom of the pin to the left and right.
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

These are Tapered Roller Bearings.
Under Load, the taper will force them outward and take up the play.
They will also expand when they warm up.
If there is no play, they will bind, Overheat, and fail shortly. :eek:
 

MH Hawker

Vice Admiral
Joined
Jul 13, 2011
Messages
5,516
Re: Castle nut square in the middle of the hole for the cotter pin when finger tight?

+ 1 , thats how I have n=been doing it for 20 years with no problems.
 

Silvertip

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,758
Re: Castle nut square in the middle of the hole for the cotter pin when finger tight?

A tapered roller bearing needs just a couple thousands free-play so you would "loosen" the nut to the next available slot -- not tighten it.
 

MarkSee

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Sep 10, 2010
Messages
1,172
Re: Castle nut square in the middle of the hole for the cotter pin when finger tight?

thanks guys; I did back it off to the slightly looser position and it feels good.
Mark
 

dlngr

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 15, 2007
Messages
547
Re: Castle nut square in the middle of the hole for the cotter pin when finger tight?

I also like to spin the wheel as I snug up the nut. Tighten the nut,'till just snug,[just a little more than finger tight] Then back off and align for cotter key.
 
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