Four Winns Surge Brakes-Always Something

Jeepster04

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 5, 2009
Messages
481
Im not sure that these surge brakes have ever worked correctly on this trailer. I believe we bought the boat sometime in 2012 and there was a noticeable rubbing sound coming from the right wheel. Dont ask why, but I didnt take the drum off till 2017 and discovered that the star adjustment had fallen off and was rubbing on the drum. In my defense, we normally only use the trailer twice a year. Not sure how this could happen so I've got to wonder if this happened from the factory. Replaced it and bled the brakes. Fast forward till now, took the boat to the lake last weekend and could feel something really dragging. When I got to the ramp the drums were too hot to touch and when I backed in the water I heard them sizzle, great.

After some checking, the hose from the frame to the axle wasnt letting the wheel cylinders release. So I ordered a new one since no local parts stores could match it up. Ended up finding a dorman unit that worked. Went ahead and ordered a new 60" stainless unit for the fold away tongue since I assume it wasnt far behind and I later discovered it was a short timer, see photos.

Got everything bled again, took it for a quick spin around town and all seemed well. Parked it overnight and took it back out to my parents where we keep it and when I arrived, brake fluid was dripping from the TDE actuator... Sigh... It seems that someway water leaked inside of the boot and everything is rusted. Not sure how water would get in there, it seems protected from rain and that doesnt go underwater on the ramp. Either way, that part number matches up with nothing (one website says its for disc brakes but its not) so I just ordered teh 70LP model for drums.

Also, check out that chunk thats missing on the drum, what would cause that??
 

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dingbat

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 20, 2001
Messages
15,473
Brake fluid is hygroscopic. It collects moisture from the air.

What your seeing is the result of not changing the fluid on a regular basis.
You should change the fluid every couple of years to keep moisture levels down.
The more humidity, the shorter the change intervals
 

Jeepster04

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 5, 2009
Messages
481
Brake fluid is hygroscopic. It collects moisture from the air.

What your seeing is the result of not changing the fluid on a regular basis.
You should change the fluid every couple of years to keep moisture levels down.
The more humidity, the shorter the change intervals

I suppose that could be the problem, but brake fluid shouldnt be in that boot to begin with.
 

dingbat

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 20, 2001
Messages
15,473
I suppose that could be the problem, but brake fluid shouldnt be in that boot to begin with.
It doesn't take long for surface rust to start forming on the internals. The rust on the shafts translates into wear on the seals. They don't take long to start leaking under pressure.

Hopefully the "cancer" hasn't made it's way into the brake line, wheel cylinders, etc. It doesn't take long to totally rust out the system once started
 

bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
Messages
30,476
The master cylinders in these actuators don't last long. I change my brake fluid every 2 to 3 years in all my vehicles including my trailers.
 

poconojoe

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Sep 10, 2010
Messages
1,966
I just changed over to fully electric drum brakes. I got tired of dealing with brake fluid, rusty master cylinder, the banging noise every time I started and stopped at a red light and the system just not working most of the time.

I bought complete drum brakes, already assembled on their backing plates. It was an easy swap. I bought the self adjusting type.

I had to run two wires back to the brakes from the front of the trailer. One to actuate the brake magnets and one ground. It's best not to use the trailer frame as a ground. A dedicated ground is the only way to go.

I also had to change to a 7 pin trailer connector and wiring. I bought one that came with a weatherproof terminal box. It was very convenient to terminated all the trailer wiring.

The other thing needed was a breakaway kit. I bought one that had an internal battery and an integrated charger. Whenever the trailer is connected to the tow vehicle it charges the battery.

My Silverado has an integrated trailer brake controller from the factory, so I didn't need to add an aftermarket controller.

I used weatherproof heat shrink butt connectors for my connections.
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
11,829
Maybe I’ve been lucky but I have the same Tie Down model 66 actuator on my trailer for 16 years and it still works fine! I have changed the wheel cyls 3 times over the years so it has gotten flushed out approx every 5 years. All salt water but trailer is only put in salt about 4 times per year because the boat stays on a salt water mooring. I have an extra long tongue on this trailer so the actuator never gets wet.
you can get zinc coated drums from Pacific Trailers in Cali I have a set on mine and they look much better than you’d expect for the years of use. I keep spares to avoid down time:
spare master cyl
spare wheel cyls
a few sets of fully assembled drum backing plates ready to install if I have a problem with a cracked brake shoe or leaky wheel cyl
 
Last edited:

poconojoe

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Sep 10, 2010
Messages
1,966
Oh, when I converted from surge drum brakes to fully electric, I was able to use my existing drums.
 
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