Is bow stop supporting weight?

Wave34

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 17, 2017
Messages
321
Were you the guy that had the question about moving the trailer axles last fall (Oct. 2018)? Did you ever move them, or just working the bow stop to get the desired tongue weight ?


Yes it was me.
I forgot to update my post LOL.

I asked the fabricator to move the axles to front 4'' if I remember well'.
This lowered my tongue weight. I'm now at 7.3% and I'm happy with that.

The problem I have now is not related to the last fall problem
Now, the problem is at the ramp, while loading, the boat touches the roller but the hook doesn't touch the bottom of the roller and the transom is 2'' to far at the back.

This week end I don't go boating so I will have time to go to a ramp and try if the adjustment I made help loading.
I will bring my tools like it has been suggested and try to make changes on the spot.

A bigger winch is on my list. I will have to start being nice with the admiral LOL.
 

cnotecherry

Seaman
Joined
Jan 2, 2015
Messages
62
Look at the angle of your winch strap it is lower than your top bow roller so how can it snug the boat up to the top roller, your winch barrel has to be higher than the top bow roller to get the eyelet snug cranking on it the way it is, is just cranking it down putting more wiegh/strain on the bow rollers

I would put your winch carrier back where it was maybe even further to forward(so the bunks cary the transom) and just raise the winch itself, but getting a biger winch might just do the trick because the barrel will be bigger
 

Wave34

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 17, 2017
Messages
321
I went to the ramp today, and did some adjustments.
Now it sits like it should.

new position2sm.jpgnew positionsm.jpg
 

Wave34

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 17, 2017
Messages
321
But... like some of you said, my winch is not big enough.

While cranking the boat, at one moment it was slightly un aligned and the winch was forcing at a slight angle less than 5 degree, and look what happened!!!!
I'm not very impressed with my trailer builder, it's one problem after another. I spent many days on that trailer since I bought it 'brand new'. Some people should stop thinking because they can weld two pieces of metal together that they can design stuff.
I will try to make him pay for a new winch.

winch bent sm.jpg
 

Horigan

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 12, 2016
Messages
614
Looking at the side view of the final bow stop position, it looks like the front end of the winch is bent. Can't compare it to the original picture since the handle is in the way. The proper sized winch should address that.

To answer your original question, the bow stop is more intended to hold the bow down, not support it. The bunks support all the weight. I think the proper sequence of events in setting up the trailer is the following:
- Load the boat so the transom is fully supported by the bunks, as you've done
- Adjust the axle position so you get the tongue weight you want.
- Take the load off the bow stop by jacking up the front of the boat with a floor jack and piece of wood
- Move the bow stop away from the bow.
- Lower the front of the boat onto the bunks, then maybe raise it a quarter inch or so
- Adjust the position of the bow stop to where you finally have it.

As mentioned before, try some silicone on the bunks to help with loading. The higher rated winches have two gears so you can winch it into position in low gear if your ramp doesn't allow you to get the trailer deep enough to float it to the bow stop.
 

Wave34

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 17, 2017
Messages
321
Looking at the side view of the final bow stop position, it looks like the front end of the winch is bent. Can't compare it to the original picture since the handle is in the way. The proper sized winch should address that.

To answer your original question, the bow stop is more intended to hold the bow down, not support it. The bunks support all the weight. I think the proper sequence of events in setting up the trailer is the following:
- Load the boat so the transom is fully supported by the bunks, as you've done
- Adjust the axle position so you get the tongue weight you want.
- Take the load off the bow stop by jacking up the front of the boat with a floor jack and piece of wood
- Move the bow stop away from the bow.
- Lower the front of the boat onto the bunks, then maybe raise it a quarter inch or so
- Adjust the position of the bow stop to where you finally have it.

As mentioned before, try some silicone on the bunks to help with loading. The higher rated winches have two gears so you can winch it into position in low gear if your ramp doesn't allow you to get the trailer deep enough to float it to the bow stop.

Thanks for the reply.
In general I did what you said.
Except, when I removed the winch tower, I was not brave enough to lower the jack completely in the fear that the bunks may be not long enough and the bow would be hanging and creating too much stress on the hull. But what do I know, it's my first boat and I'm learning little by little.

I will let it like that for now but may try later to let the boat on the bunks only, and then move the tower.
 

GA_Boater

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
May 24, 2011
Messages
49,038
When you had the trailer custom built, what size C-clamp did you spec for the the winch post? :rolleyes:

The under-sized winch is over stressed causing it lean to one side.
 

jimmbo

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 24, 2004
Messages
12,944
When you mount your new Winch, pay attention how you secure it. I think the current one was very poorly attached, from what it looks like, 2 long bolt passing thru a hollow tube? If there is 3 or 4 inches of air between the walls of the tube, then there is the potential of the tube collapsing and the winch becoming loose
 

Wave34

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 17, 2017
Messages
321
When you had the trailer custom built, what size C-clamp did you spec for the the winch post? :rolleyes:

The under-sized winch is over stressed causing it lean to one side.

LOL.
I said to the guy what boat I had, the weight, deadrise etc.
He came to the marina look at the boat and took notes, and I trusted him.

I always do my things myself. I never go the a garage with my cars, I seldom hire someone to work on my house.
I thought of building a trailer myself, but I didn't have time.

My uncle used to say: you are never better served than by yourself.
I still remember that even it was back in the 70s.

Oh well, they call that 'life'.
 

Wave34

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 17, 2017
Messages
321
When you mount your new Winch, pay attention how you secure it. I think the current one was very poorly attached, from what it looks like, 2 long bolt passing thru a hollow tube? If there is 3 or 4 inches of air between the walls of the tube, then there is the potential of the tube collapsing and the winch becoming loose

Yes it is a hollow tube. But the tube didn't collapse, it looks quite thick.

When I will install the new winch, I will try in insert two tubes to make it more rigid where the bolts are tightened.
 

xltier

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 20, 2004
Messages
636
I need to know if the bow needs to be supported on the bow stop roller.

I'm asking because I see that my winch tower is not adjusted like it should, (bow hook not touching the bottom of the roller, and boat could move 2'' more forward) but the bow is snung on the roller.

I would like to jack the bow from underneath, move the tower accordingly, then lower the bow.
But doing so, will let the boat not touching the roller, until I tow it to the ramp, so it will not be supported while driven on the road.

Is this bad?
If yes, how can I move the boat forward in my driveway. It weights 7500 lb.

Thanks.

why don't you just add a roller and bracket to the front cross member. then adjust it up against the keel.maybe even one of those self centering ones.worked on my 24ft. aquasport W A with fiberglas roof and Bunkie trailer.
 

Wave34

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 17, 2017
Messages
321
why don't you just add a roller and bracket to the front cross member. then adjust it up against the keel.maybe even one of those self centering ones.worked on my 24ft. aquasport W A with fiberglas roof and Bunkie trailer.

I think that when the hull will be forward enough to touch that centering roller, it will be close enough to be centered by the winch tower roller, or is there another advantage that I don't see?
 

Wave34

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 17, 2017
Messages
321
I'm shopping right now for a new bigger winch.
My friend, after looking at my setup, told me that my winch got torn because the strap goes out from the top instead of the bottom.

He says that it puts a pulling (tilting) force on the bolts and winch base, compared to as if I have the strap going out from the bottom, there will be only a sheer force on the bolts and no tilting force on the winch frame.

BUT, when I look at images on internet, almost all of them have the strap going out from the top.

Is it only because it is easier to route to the hull?
I will have to re do the winch support (cutting and welding) so I will make it to accommodate the winch and strap.

Top or Bottom for the strap?

EDIT: when I was younger, I was in off roading a lot. All the winches on the trucks had the wire coming out from the bottom especially for that reason, not to twist the winch support and bumper/frame rails.
 
Last edited:

xltier

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 20, 2004
Messages
636
I think that when the hull will be forward enough to touch that centering roller, it will be close enough to be centered by the winch tower roller, or is there another advantage that I don't see?

only if you were ever in a situation where u could power load it. but it really don't matter. just something to take the weight is fine. some people just crank to the winch rollers and add a wratchet type strap to the bow hook to the trailer and bind it down that way.justkeeps things from bouncing going down the road.i haul my 24ft aquasport that way all over the state with no issues. 75mph.
 

Wave34

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 17, 2017
Messages
321
Looking at the side view of the final bow stop position, it looks like the front end of the winch is bent. Can't compare it to the original picture since the handle is in the way. The proper sized winch should address that.

To answer your original question, the bow stop is more intended to hold the bow down, not support it. The bunks support all the weight. I think the proper sequence of events in setting up the trailer is the following:
- Load the boat so the transom is fully supported by the bunks, as you've done
- Adjust the axle position so you get the tongue weight you want.
- Take the load off the bow stop by jacking up the front of the boat with a floor jack and piece of wood
- Move the bow stop away from the bow.
- Lower the front of the boat onto the bunks, then maybe raise it a quarter inch or so
- Adjust the position of the bow stop to where you finally have it.

As mentioned before, try some silicone on the bunks to help with loading. The higher rated winches have two gears so you can winch it into position in low gear if your ramp doesn't allow you to get the trailer deep enough to float it to the bow stop.


Update;
I modified my winch tower and install a bigger winch. I choose a 2600lb (2 speed 5:1 and 12:1 ratios). The 3500lb winch had ratios of 5:1 and 90:1 which Would take forever to crank.

I did what you suggested. I moved the winch tower back and let the weight of the boat supported by the bunks only. By doing that, the front hook ring moved down about 1''. I then jacked the bow 3/8'' and adjusted my new tower/1 roll/new winch to just be over the hook ring.

Now it works a lot better. The hook ring doesn't have to slide over the bottom roller since I removed it. The new winch is stronger, even on the high gear.

Thanks all for the help.

winch new.jpg
 
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