Surge Brakes Locking

[Harritwo]

I have a 2006 SeaRay 195 with a 24' SeaRay Trailer, tandem axle with surge brakes on the front axle only. The brakes lock anytime you step on the truck brakes. Can these be adjusted? How?

 

[dingbat]

Disc or drum?

 

[Harritwo]

Drum

 

[tpenfield]

You may want to try backing off the shoe adjustment a few 'clicks' on the drums.

 

[Scott Danforth]

actually, it may be too far backed off now, and when the shoes rock into the self-energizing mode, they lock up as the wheel cylinder rods go into a bind.

pull the drums and look at how loose/tight the shoe adjustments are on this new to you boat/trailer. adjust as needed

 

[Harritwo]

So the next question is how close to level does the trailer need to ride with tandem axle and surge brakes? Should it be Tongue high by an inch or level as close as you can get?

 

[dingbat]

So the next question is how close to level does the trailer need to ride with tandem axle and surge brakes? Should it be Tongue high by an inch or level as close as you can get?

I run a 20-21” ball height (nose up by a couple of inches) to center the equalizers on the trailer

 

[jimmbo]

It should be level when hitched up, but still putting the required weight on the Hitch. If the Trailer uses a spring suspension there is a small bit of Leeway, but if it has Torsion Axles, it needs to be just about perfectly level, while again, still putting the required weight on the hitch

Load Distribution Hitches and Surge Brakes are not a very compatible duo

 

[dingbat]

If the Trailer uses a spring suspension there is a small bit of Leeway,

In reality, sometimes it’s not that cut and dry.

Spent close to two years messing with my trailer. All new suspension parts, two different springs weights and more than a couple calls to the factory. All in an attempt to get the load equalizers to level out. Nothing worked.

Long story short, the trailer bows between the front axle and the hitch point with the boat on the trailer.

Leveled the frame rails (at axles) instead of the “wishbone” and the equalizers centered. Needed 2” in rise at the ball to level the frame. Called Loadrite who confirmed my hitch height was within the norm.

Mystery solved.

 

[Harritwo]

Thanks.

Also, Scott called it perfectly on the brakes. I wound up having to tighten the drums 42 clicks before the locked, then backing off 8 clicks. Now they seem to be working good.

Trailer is showing level when hooked up to truck on the axles, but shows about a 1/2" rise at the ball over all.

I think i will call it good unless i see issues somewhere with braking or tire wear.

 

[Harritwo]

***UPDATE **** Was still having issues with brakes locking loaded or unloaded at even low speed normal stop. Finally jacked the trailer up, took all 4 wheels off and was shocked at what I found. It appeared that at some point, the Previous Owner had forgotten to unhook the brake cable before driving off. The cable had been sheared and spliced back inside the coupler.

All 4 wheels had the leading pad almost metal to metal. The wheel cylinders were over extended. The actuator was shot. Replaced all 4 backing plates with new, new actuator and bled all lines several times over. Trailer stops like it should now, no more locking brakes.

What really shocked me was the amount of damage to the pads. The trailer was bought new, was pulled a distance of 70 miles and the boat was put in the water at a lake house. During the winter, the trailer was pulled a total of 2 miles each year to launch/retrieve the boat 1 time per year until I bought it.

Previous Owner stated that he had forgot the cable many years ago but didn't know he had done any damage other than shearing the cable. He told me this after I asked him about it.

$800 later and the trailer is safe and ready to tow again

 

[Scott Danforth]

with proper maintenance, the brakes should last 20+ years

to shed light for those reading this years later.......depending on your surge head, when the cable pulls, there is a little ferrule on the cable that gets pulled thru a clip to keep the master cylinder energized. to re-set, one must use a screw-driver to relieve the cable, allowing the master cylinder to retract.