Proper set up for roller trailers and aluminum hulls?

[ShoestringMariner]

Hey all, I’m trying to set my trailer up better. Wondering about the do’s and dont’s of setting this trailer up for my aluminum boat.
I’d like this trailer to be both a “drive on” but also an easy push off/winch on when dealing with shallow/difficult launch situations.

It is not a tilt trailer if that matters for this discussion.

Currently there’s 2 sets of double rollers at the back and another near the bow. I have the transom sitting over the rearmost wheel set.

Is there anything to know about wheel placement? I’m worried about putting dents in the bottom of the hull if the wheels are not under a rib.

I was considering switching to bunks but figured launching might be difficult in shallower water.

 

[ShoestringMariner]

[No message]

 

[Lightwin 3]

For now, If you can, get the rollers umder known hull strong points. Rivet seems, etc.

I am NOT a fan of roller trailers. The trick to easy launch/load is getting the trailer and boat as low as possible. For every inch you lower the boat, that saves a foot on a typical ramp.

That may include:

1. Reversing axle to ride on top of springs. Easier than it sounds.

2. Setting bunks as low as possible.

3. Re-engineering bow stop.

 

[roscoe]

So that Starcraft ( 16SS '73 or '74 ? ) is a tough little hull.

Rollers should be between the strakes on the hull.

Best improvement you could make for easier loading, is adding a set of guide ons to the trailer.
They will keep the transom centered so the boat ends up in the same place every time.

https://www.iboats.com/shop/trailer...ngineering-fixed-angle-roller-guide-on-s.html

 

[ShoestringMariner]

For now, If you can, get the rollers umder known hull strong points. Rivet seems, etc.

I am NOT a fan of roller trailers. The trick to easy launch/load is getting the trailer and boat as low as possible. For every inch you lower the boat, that saves a foot on a typical ramp.

That may include:

1. Reversing axle to ride on top of springs. Easier than it sounds.

2. Setting bunks as low as possible.

3. Re-engineering bow stop.

Thanks, would you mind elaborating on the bow stop comment?

the axle is flipped already. I might be able to go a bit lower with bunks, but I fear I may damage the prop or skeg(?) on the final back in. (It’s not power tilt, don’t know how heavy motor is to lift or lower by hand from inside of boat...I’m very low experience with boats)

 

[ShoestringMariner]

So that Starcraft ( 16SS '73 or '74 ? ) is a tough little hull.

Rollers should be between the strakes on the hull.

Best improvement you could make for easier loading, is adding a set of guide ons to the trailer.
They will keep the transom centered so the boat ends up in the same place every time.

https://www.iboats.com/shop/trailer...ngineering-fixed-angle-roller-guide-on-s.html


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Thanks, I am planning those or side boards. Yes it is a SS160. 1975.

 

[Lightwin 3]

If you lower the boat on the trailer, you may have to adjust the bow stop.

It is important to have the rear set of rollers directly under the transom for maximum support.

 

[M2HB]

When I rebuilt my Dilly trailer, I replaced the bunk rollers and all the keel rollers with Stoltz keel rollers.
I rely heavily on the keel rollers and adjust them to take over half of the weight.
The side rails are also important. I installed 2” ID receiver tubes and built the side rail tubes out of 2” x 3/16” square tubing so they are removable.

 

[M2HB]

Picture of trailer with keel rollers, bunk rollers and side rails.

 

[ShoestringMariner]

Picture of trailer with keel rollers, bunk rollers and side rails.

Great looking trailer, now I want to build one...

 

[M2HB]

I’ve built a lot of trailers over the years and most were built from rectangular tubing or structural channel. None were built from formed “C” channel like this Dilly trailer. They cold formed the C channel in a very inexpensive way, yet it is strong and light. I would have built that design out of 4” structural channel. The amount of miters would have made mass production out of the question.

i really do like the basic design of the Dilly with the tilt design, rear access open in the middle and adjustable axles. That is why I decided to rebuild it instead of making a new one. For the cost of sandblasting all the coats of old paint, I could have bought new material. The main reason I rebuilt it, besides the design, is I was trying to rebuild a 1976 trailer to go with the 1976, “Spirit of’76” boat.

 

[ShoestringMariner]

I’ve built a lot of trailers over the years and most were built from rectangular tubing or structural channel. None were built from formed “C” channel like this Dilly trailer. They cold formed the C channel in a very inexpensive way, yet it is strong and light. I would have built that design out of 4” structural channel. The amount of miters would have made mass production out of the question.

i really do like the basic design of the Dilly with the tilt design, rear access open in the middle and adjustable axles. That is why I decided to rebuild it instead of making a new one. For the cost of sandblasting all the coats of old paint, I could have bought new material. The main reason I rebuilt it, besides the design, is I was trying to rebuild a 1976 trailer to go with the 1976, “Spirit of’76” boat.

Very cool...retro with retro. Nice restoration job btw.
I especially like the V notch. What are the odds you can take a photo of its tilt set up and lock?

oh, and where did you get the rollers...like the red

 

[M2HB]

I’ll see if I can find some pictures of the tilt mechanism. I rewrlded it and put on stainless steel bolts, but I never tilted it since I put it back together. I haven’t seen it for a few months since my boat mechanic has had the boat.

The rollers are self centering Stoltz rollers with stainless steel shafts.

 

[JimS123]

Picture of trailer with keel rollers, bunk rollers and side rails.

Really slick setup. Anyone with a bunk trailer would be envious (or they should be if they knew what they were doing).

Yours is the only trailer I ever saw that was actually better than mine.....LOL..

 

[M2HB]

That is very nice trailer you have.
it looks like it is galvanized. That sure is a durable finish.

 

[ShoestringMariner]

I noticed you guys don’t use anything but keel rollers at the front. My trailer has big rollers to stabilize the sides of the bow. Is that more typical for Fiberglass boats?

 

[M2HB]

I don't know if it is more typical for fiberglass boats.

My theory is that the keel on an aluminum boat is going to be one of the strongest parts. That is where I want a roller to take some weight. Pushing on the aluminum hull, without any backing behind it, can't be very strong.

 

[M2HB]

I’ll see if I can find some pictures of the tilt mechanism. I rewrlded it and put on stainless steel bolts, but I never tilted it since I put it back together. I haven’t seen it for a few months since my boat mechanic has had the boat.

The rollers are self centering Stoltz rollers with stainless steel shafts.

Here is a picture with the tilt mechanism removed while I was rewelding the trailer.

Picture before I removed the tilt mechanism to reweld trailer.

Picture of me spreading area that contains the tongue when not tilted. When hot dip galvanizing the temperature is around 800 degrees. This will cause some areas to move. Consider it like stress relieving steel. The only area that moved, that I know of is this area where the tongue goes. I had to make a spreader to spread it apart for the tongue to fit. If I had a hydraulic wedge it would have been easier. LOL

 

[JimS123]

I noticed you guys don’t use anything but keel rollers at the front. My trailer has big rollers to stabilize the sides of the bow. Is that more typical for Fiberglass boats?

Its not to "stabilize" the bow, its to keep it from falling off sideways (semantics). Trailers are not specifically designed for wood, glass or metal. They are designed to carry a certain weight and length.

As the years have gone by, the designs have evolved. IMHO, current designs are made to be cheap, and have seriously sacrificed launching, retrieving and hull support.

 

[JimS123]

I don't know if it is more typical for fiberglass boats.

My theory is that the keel on an aluminum boat is going to be one of the strongest parts. That is where I want a roller to take some weight. Pushing on the aluminum hull, without any backing behind it, can't be very strong.

The strongest part of ANY boat is the keel. If its not there is something wrong with the boat.

You are correct in saying that the keel should take most of the weight. Other support members are only there to keep the boat level on the trailer.

Naturally, whether an OB or an I/O, there needs to be additional support for the engine.