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how do i bypass the oil inj. for premix

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  • how do i bypass the oil inj. for premix

    anyone have any instructions for bypassing the oil injection for a seadoo 580sp is it easy to do ?

  • #2
    Re: how do i bypass the oil inj. for premix

    very easy to do
    but to do it proper u will need to jet the carbs right


    • #3
      Re: how do i bypass the oil inj. for premix

      i have an xp and am also interested in bypassing to go pre mix. i have heard so many different ways of doing it, which is the proper way??



      • #4
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        Re: how do i bypass the oil inj. for premix

        the way I always did sea doos

        Drain oil tank
        Remove carb(s) manifold and rotary valve cover. You can remove it all as a unit but you gotta have small fingers for the bottom bolts. 1 bolt on each corver of the rotary valve cover. this is the roundish looking metal piece that the carbs and the intake manifold bolt to.
        Remove the oil injection pump and cable.
        Remove oil line going to the oil pump. ( its the one with the filter on it White round filter)

        There will be two big oil lines. One on the right side of the motor one on the left side of the motor ( both going to the oil tank) . those two lines need to be joined together. i usually use a T fitting and then cap that off . Fill that with two stroke oil but leave soem room for expansion. Sea doos have a oil bath design for the rotary valve drive gear and those two lines need to stay and have oil in them otherwise youll bust up the gear. its replaceable though and its made of brass.

        Oknow cap off the old oil line nipple from the oil tank that was going to the oil pump

        On the back of the rotary cover you jsut removed there is a white plastic gear. the gear is driven by the rotary valve drive shaft. the shaft turns both the rotary valve and the oil pump gear which in turn turns the oil pump.

        after you remove the oil pump you will need to fill the left over hole with a block off kit. basically its a piece of metal thats shaped like the base of the oil pump. little silicone on the back side and bolt it down. the block off plates run about 12$. If you have a buddy who is a machinist or have soem allminum plate you can make your own if you can cut it and shape it and drill two holes. I make my own from some flat alluminum plate.

        Now when you remove the rotary valve cover try to keep the rotary valve seated on the shaft. its a 50/50. sometimes it sticks to the cover sometimes to the block. if you take it off all the way youll have to retime it. its not hard so dont freak.

        As for the rejetting after switching to premix i dont believe in that really. I never had to rejet any ski after i did a pre mix conversion. unless youre gonna do soem performance mods I wouldnt bother. If you run regular oil I run 40-1 and if I run synthetic I run 50-1. Synthetic is hard to find now in my area unless I wanna pay 45$ a gallon. i jsut run Pennzoil 2 stroke oil and I run 40-1. I also run it on my wifes GTX for years and havent had any trouble. DONT run Pennzoil if you have a 951. i rebuilt one 3x for a buddy and he kept running pennzoil. i made him switch to Sea doo oil and hasnt had a problem since. thats the only ski I knew of that just flat out did not like pennzoil.

        Now if youre really freaked out you can turn your high and low adjustments out 1/8-1/4 turn to add more fuel but if you dont know what youre doing dont do it cause you may end up running it too rich. You can rejet since the carbs are out but you cant go more than two sizes up which you can also get by turning the high and low adjsutments out. But I dont think anyone will need to do that. Not arguing with anybody jsut my personal opinion

        What I would do is get some carb rebuild kits and rebuild the carbs if you have never done it or if its been a while. youre already there and it woudl suck to have to do it in a month or two.