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Start-up after long term storage

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  • Start-up after long term storage


    I am new to this forum. I have a pair of 2002 Yamaha Waverunners Model: FX1000, 140HP, four stroke. These Waverunners have been in storage since 2013. We live in Colorado and have kept them either in our garage or in my shop. My shop is not heated but is insulated so it they haven't been exposed to extreme cold conditions but I have had water bottles freeze in there. We are looking to get them operating again and I was just wondering what I might need to look for prior to starting them. I plan on changing the oil, replacing the batteries, draining the gas and using something like Sea Foam or ? to add to the first new tank of fuel for each. I did add some Sta-Bil a couple years ago but I don't trust the fuel now. I will check all of my hoses and lines. I did a quick inspection and there are no signs of mice camping out in them. I do have a service manual for them but I just wanted to get some input from some of the PWC owners and mechanics on this site to see if there is anything particular to these machines that I need to be aware of.

    I figure that if I start going through them now that I won't be scrambling once the weather gets nice here. Thanks in advance for any help or advice that may be offered.


  • #2
    Oil , batteries and gas are the logical start points. But after 7 years, OMG. The good thing is that they are yamis, the bad thing is the 7 years.

    Your post is exactly why so many boats are sitting in back yards uncovered and rotting. The owners lost interest and then decided to use them and they didn't run. So they sit some more and end up useless.

    Its probably more than just draining the fuel. Its not easy to get good stuff thru the entire system.

    Hate to be a naysayer, but if it were me I'd sell them to some unsuspecting guy and let him do all the things needed to get them running again. IMHO, it sounds like a constant struggle, with lots of problems in between.

    Boating is a hobby and a life saver. If you have to get towed in every time its no fun.

    If you didn't want to go boating before, you probably don't need to now.
    2019 SeaRay SPX 190 OB & Mercury 150 4-Stroke & Merc 5.0 Kicker
    2017 Boston Whaler 150 Montauk & Mercury 60 ELPT Command Thrust & Merc 3.5 Kicker
    2015 Yamaha FX Cruiser HO
    1964 Sea Nymph 14R & 1970 Evinrude Sportwin 9.5
    1960 Mulray 100 Dinghy, equipped with Beaver Oars
    1952 Lyman 15' Mid Steer & Evinrude Big Twin 25
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    Member ACBS, LBOA, AOMCI


    • #3
      Let me actually answer your question rather than rant on and then recommend you sell them to an unsuspecting buyer.......

      You’re doing the right things by changing the oil, draining the gas, etc.

      A couple of additional things to consider—-I’d change the spark plugs and look through the shop manual to see where the “grease points” are—-for example, my Waverunners (with the 180hp 4 strokes) have a grease fitting on the shaft between the motor and impeller—-yours may or may not or have one or more in a different location.

      You can get plugs online or at your local auto parts store—Yamahas typically use NGK plugs and any auto parts store either has them in stock or can get them in a day or so—-the shop manual should have the part number.

      In lieu of Seafoam (which is good stuff for certain applications) I recommend a double dose of Techron—-it’s designed to remove deposits and the gum and varnish that comes from gas sitting in the fuel tank and fuel lines. It’ll work better than Seafoam in your situation.

      One final thing I’d recommend——when you’re changing the plugs and have all 4 out, put a teaspoon of motor oil down each spark plug hole and hit the starter a couple of times for a few seconds to distribute it around the cylinder—the oil will lubricate the cylinders and help remove any surface rust that might have formed while it was in storage. Then reinstall the plugs. It’ll smoke upon initial startup for a few seconds from the residual oil but that’s fine.

      Being Yamahas, they should run fine once you get them in the water——it’s very common for PWCs to get intermittent usage or be stored for years and still be perfectly fine.

      Good luck with them
      Last edited by jetboater; January 16th, 2020, 07:50 PM.


      • #4
        Good luck with them!
        Last edited by jetboater; January 16th, 2020, 08:17 PM.


        • #5
          Thanks jetboater, I will take your advice.

          I think putting a little oil down the spark plug holes is a great idea. When you said to use a double dose of Techron did you mean to double the amt. I add to a new tank of fuel after I drain the old tank, or run two tanks through adding the recommended amt? Each Waverunner has a 18.5 gallon tank. They are both full and have been since being stored and both have Sta-bil added to them from about four years ago. I have no intentions of burning the old fuel in them. I will probably have to figure out how to dispose of it properly or reuse it in ?

          My next question do I just run new fuel with the Techron added (a full tank) or do I go heavy on the Techron with a smaller amount and run it through that way in order to get the lines and injectors cleaned initially. The Waverunners wont be in the water until I am sure they will run so I will be doing all of this with the hose connected to them. It would be bad to run them for any longer than needed with the hose hook up.

          Thanks again for your positive encouragement. The last five years have been pretty rough for me health wise. I am planning on retiring(semi-retiring) soon and will definitely enjoy being able to get out on the water again.



          • #6

            just thought I’d mention...in response to the thought about changing the oil before running the engine...unfortunately this is impossible. You need to run the engine for about 5-10 mins on the hose to get the correct oil level in the collection tank. Just so you can extract it. You will get about just over 2 litres out maximum, despite the system holding about 4 litres.

            with this in mind, I’d get some oil down the cylinders and turn her over. Then fire her up on the hose...after sucking out the rubbish fuel by taking the rubber cap off fuel tank in front of the engine. Easily done.
            good news is that these MR1 engines are about the best of them...ecu and plug fouling aside. But that’s for another day.
            cant stress how important the oil level is on these. Very very common mistake for owners to think the dip stick is dipping a sump. Some will dip it cold and think there is no oil in it (only shows oil after running engine)...they panic and add oil. This then overflows and saturates the air filter at best. At worst...blows the engine. It’s a collection tank and not a sump. Worth remembering. Good luck and get in touch if you need to. Cheers.


            • #7
              you will have to mechanically clean the fuel system. sta-bil is good for 1 year max. beyond that, the fuel will most likely die
              Cheesehead boating the Gulf Coast of FLA 27.51° N, 82.53° W

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              • #8
                I’d siphon as much fuel out as you can (either thru the filler holes or by taking the large rubber cap off the top of the fuel tank) and then I’d recommend doubling the amount of Techron you add to the new fuel—-for example, if it says one bottle will treat 18 gallons, use two bottles—this is a common practice to clean out the gum and varnish from the fuel lines and injectors.
                The first tank is the most important one but I use Techron in every tank now ( at the regular dosage amount)


                • #9
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                  You can burn the old fuel in your car if you want—-I’ve done it several times—I add about 3-4 gallons to the car’s tank and then fill it up at the gas station. The car doesn’t rin any differently.
                  takes a while to use it all but better than trying to find a way to dispose of it (and you can save a few bucks by using it)