Oil in the bilge , Sea-doo 3 seater

[Leaky Rear]

My Seadoo has sat covered unused 2 seasons . .before Winterizing 2017, added marine fuel stabilizer and ran in..
Then fogged the cylinders and topped of the oil tank, pulled drain plugs to hull ect.
So I uncovered this weekend , starts ok - wont keep running at low RPM in the water, but has lots of snap when the rpm hits 3000. I expect new plugs will remedy. Will find out very soon.

My concern was the purple oil fresh in the bilge. My Sea-doo guy is on vacation next 8 weeks. he told me on phone the tank may be split along the seem. he said that is common. And the tank is half full , but filled before winterizing.
He said look at both ends at the oil lines. See if they are leaking.

I do not know what to look for or where to look for it. All i see is a fill tube to oil tank . I have the small compartment where you would put docs and keys uncovered as well as the front cargo basin removed and the seats out. I do not see where the oil from the tank feeds to.

 

[alldodge]

Your seadoo guy is dead on, its the tank of lies. Had an old doo and the tank cracked and had a real slow leak and was hard to see. Found it but feeling around on the tank and finding the wet spot. Same goes with the lines, have to feel around

 

[Leaky Rear]

Thanks post #2. I will keep looking for the lines. Could a temporary remedy, if it is the tank could I just run it half full / empty and just keep an eye on the oil level? I think the motor is the 951.

A bit OT - is spark plug gap .20 or .16? Did a google search. Seems opinions vary widely .Suggestions here?

 

[alldodge]

Yes, 1/2 full works, we did that for a while waiting for the tank to come in

Never said what model you had, but if its a GTX or GTS DI gap between .022 with BR8ES. Plugs come out of the box at .029

 

[Leaky Rear]

That should get me by until the tank is replaced. I'd went and bought plugs right after I posted & gapped the plugs at .020 and snugged them.
I may pull them and re-gap , or let them burn down to .022 (?)
Apparently I was off a decimal point on the post #3 !

 

[alldodge]

The book does call for .020 but most gap at .022 and I would say your fine either way

Easy fit .020 comes to about .022

 

[Leaky Rear]

Thanks for the input everyone. The Seadoo runs starts and idles real nice , just need to test in fast water now.
I tied off to my dock and revved the motor a bit to 2500 -3000 RPM , stays running and sounds ready for fast water.. I think the gap will be fine.

Looks like the leak in the oil tank is at the seem at the 2/3 full mark and along the side near gas tank .
For the life of me I am still looking and feeling for the oil lines. The only lines I see are gray ones that come from the GAS tank.

Even with seadoo on slide on dry dock , so tough to work on knees and elbows. Almost need to seadoo on trailer to do anything without getting sore and banged up. Trailer needs work too , or would be using while i do this.

 

[Brien S]

Find the oil pump on the front of the engine. There is a large line going from the tank to it, and smaller lines coming out going to the intake or carb. It's the smaller lines that are of concern. They get hard and brittle with age, and break or come off, leading to a engine rebuild. A typical indicator is oil in the bilge. You will prob have to pull the flame arrestor off to see the termination point at the carb. If they have not been replaced recently, I highly recommend it right away.

 

[Leaky Rear]

Thank you post # 8 .
Excuse the delay of responding , I had been caught up with other things (fix-it).

I will check out the lines , that is good suggestion. The lines are 20 plus years old now.

 

[wahlejim]

A little late to the party here, but need to add that you should change out those fuel lines and rebuild your carbs, also clean your fuel selector valve.

If you do an internet search for TEMPO FUEL LINES ON SEA DOO, you will see why. Those gray lines react with fuel and brass and form a green sludge that hardens. If that ski has been sitting, it is through your carbs at this point. There are several instances of detonation due to a lean condition caused by this problem. Use only genuine Mikuni rebuild kits when you do this and test your pop-off pressure (All of your symptoms are classical symptoms of the TEMPO fuel line issue)