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  • #16
    yes
    https://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...4-3-block-swap

    1990-4-3-century-2000-floor-transom-stringer-upholstery-project

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    • #17
      Hmm. Timing is advancing as the engine speed increases?

      About the boat. You said the stringers were in bad shape. Rotted? What condition was the Transom? Any water logged Foam? Is the hull bottom straight with no Hook?

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      • #18
        I don't know about the timing advancing.
        I believe I have a small hook bottom.
        The stringers transom and foam were waterlogged. some areas were bad and some were ok.
        The cam was bought on ebay and I compared the two camshafts. Plus it had the cam lobe for the mechanical fuel rod.
        https://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...4-3-block-swap

        1990-4-3-century-2000-floor-transom-stringer-upholstery-project

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        • #19
          it is not a light boat and with gear and people in it we are easily in the #3400 range.
          https://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...4-3-block-swap

          1990-4-3-century-2000-floor-transom-stringer-upholstery-project

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Chris51280 View Post
            it is not a light boat and with gear and people in it we are easily in the #3400 range.
            at 3400# i would want a small V8
            Cheesehead boating the Gulf Coast of FLA 27.51° N, 82.53° W

            1988 Cruisers Rogue 2420 -VP 290 DP now powered by custom 468 - https://forums.iboats.com/forum/owner...988-rogue-2420

            Past Boats
            1970 Wooster Hellion - Merc 9.8
            2002 SeaRay 190BR - 5.0 - A1G2 - "Cheeseheads in Paradise"
            1984 Avanti 170DLI -3.0 stringer- "Ship Happens"

            What’s behind you doesn’t matter.Enzo Ferrari

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            • #21
              Originally posted by Chris51280 View Post
              I don't know about the timing advancing.
              I believe I have a small hook bottom.
              The stringers transom and foam were waterlogged. some areas were bad and some were ok.
              The cam was bought on ebay and I compared the two camshafts. Plus it had the cam lobe for the mechanical fuel rod.
              A hook can knock several MPH off the top speed, and it doesn't need to very large at all.

              Did you remove all the soaked foam?

              New or Used Cam? VP, Mercrusier part #s
              How did you compare them? Even my my Micrometer Eyes have trouble measuring Duration and Lift. 1990, that would be Pre Vortec.

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              • #22
                Originally posted by jimmbo View Post

                A hook can knock several MPH off the top speed, and it doesn't need to very large at all.

                Did you remove all the soaked foam?

                New or Used Cam? VP, Mercrusier part #s
                How did you compare them? Even my my Micrometer Eyes have trouble measuring Duration and Lift. 1990, that would be Pre Vortec.
                Total gut job.
                Well, then I don't really know if it was a true mercruiser cam. It was sold as such.
                It is pre-vortec without the balance shaft.
                https://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...4-3-block-swap

                1990-4-3-century-2000-floor-transom-stringer-upholstery-project

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                • #23
                  Looking at the numbers, it appears to be correct. The bottom anti fouling will slow me down and I think the weight is a significant factor. The 4 blade turning point is probably a bit aggressive and the 2bbl carb is not the best either vs 4bbl. I think i need to clean the bottom up when ever I get to it and try a 14x17 prop. I will also check the compression and the firing of all cylinders
                  https://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...4-3-block-swap

                  1990-4-3-century-2000-floor-transom-stringer-upholstery-project

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                  • #24
                    So I checked the compression cold at 130 to 140 psi. Not sure how accurate the gauge is but 4 cylinders were at 135psi
                    I checked with all plugs out. Could not tell much by the plugs since they are new with only 3 hours on them

                    I took several videos of it running at idle.

                    What i noticed now is a slight knock ob top. And when I take the plug wire #1 and #3 off there seems to. E no difference. The others I can tell it changing tone at idle when I unplug them. Any thoughts. Also, the resistor sparks when I unplug the wires, is this normal?
                     
                    https://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...4-3-block-swap

                    1990-4-3-century-2000-floor-transom-stringer-upholstery-project

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                    • #25
                       
                      https://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...4-3-block-swap

                      1990-4-3-century-2000-floor-transom-stringer-upholstery-project

                      Comment


                      • #26
                         
                        https://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...4-3-block-swap

                        1990-4-3-century-2000-floor-transom-stringer-upholstery-project

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                        • #27
                          Are all the plug wires going to the proper cylinder?
                          The sparking when the plug wires are pulled is not normal. Is the that HT wire fully inserted in the coil? Is the insulator cap damaged? Is the coil housing where the HT wire damaged or cracked?
                          You appear to have good spark at the coil, but will it jump a 7/16" gap at the spark plug end? Are there any cracks in the spark plug insulators?

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                          • #28
                            spark plugs are new from the marina. they are ngk br6.

                            I will double check the wires if they are 100% connected and correctly as well.
                            I will check the coil wire again too
                            The cap seemed to be ok without any visual crack.
                            I can check if it will jump 7/16 tomorrow as well.

                            It actually is cylinder #1 and #5 that does not appear to fire. Tha would explain loss of power. It just is very interesting that running without 2 cylinders it runs this "smooth"
                            https://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...4-3-block-swap

                            1990-4-3-century-2000-floor-transom-stringer-upholstery-project

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                            • #29
                              Another thing I found out today. Not sure if you can confirm. Since my decals are gone on the side I could not find the gear ratio and always assumed it is the 1.84:1 ratio. My sterndrive number is however 0D463089 which puts me in a 1.98:1 ratio. Is this better or worse?
                              apparently this was an optional outdrive for my engine back then
                              Last edited by Chris51280; August 13th, 2019, 07:26 PM.
                              https://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...4-3-block-swap

                              1990-4-3-century-2000-floor-transom-stringer-upholstery-project

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                              • #30
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                                New plugs can get cracked insulators, when installed.
                                The difference in the Gear Ratio means you will need slightly more Pitch on the prop than with a 1.84:1. Alternate ratios were offered for heavier than usual boats, and/or High Altitude locations. The reason is to reduce the narrow/reduce the range of Pitches used, even if one boat has a v6, the other a 4 and a third a v8

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