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  • Have been using that same extension on mine. Solo riding I have to put my body further forward for better weight distribution. I ground down the piece where the lock knob is and use a hose clamp to hold it in place.
    Saturn SD365 Suzuki 20 EFI

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    • Luckily don't have to move any weight further to plane fast, can even ride with 2 sitting aft seat and combo will jump on plane near instantly, that's due to having dialed a Tip Top OB/transom match along a excellent prop pitch maximization. These 2 issues will make a day/night boating difference running a very under powered OB.

      To ground down means you have filled both protruding plastic pieces that holds locking mechnisms in place to be flat even as rear part, right ?

      Happy Boating
      Last edited by Sea Rider; September 10th, 2017, 12:20 PM.


      Sea Rider 320, 380 Sibs, 450 Rib, 2 Strokes Tohatsu 5,18 & 30 HP Proud Smokers

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      • Yes ground them flat where the tightner knob was. The Suzukis tiller is bigger around than most. Buy the time I get it squeezed on the the tightner hole won't line up anyway.
        Saturn SD365 Suzuki 20 EFI

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        • My last Tiny Tach installed on tiller next to grip had its Waterloo Time long ago. A tach is must have item now that the tiller has been extended and cut to fit my boating requirements & comfort. I'm a huge fan of Hardline hour/tachs, are easy to install, can cut wire excess once bolted to tiller and wrapped around spark plug cable.

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          Hardline tachs are just splash proof, to make them waterproof just add 2 square pieces of tape at lower side of display, now can rinse the OB & tiller without water intrusion on tach.

          Installed the tiller extender and guess what, when extended fully down sat flat on top of cushioned seat, clearance between hand and seat was 0. There was too much hand & seat friction going on...

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          A simple solution was to glue 2 mm hard plastic shims (*) at rear tiller arm, right on the angle that rests against swivel bracket when tiller is fully down.

          Incredible how 2 mm shims can rise 1.5" front tiller grip, now hand clearance is excellent and very comfy to tiller drive.

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          Happy Boating
          Last edited by Sea Rider; September 15th, 2017, 05:03 AM.


          Sea Rider 320, 380 Sibs, 450 Rib, 2 Strokes Tohatsu 5,18 & 30 HP Proud Smokers

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            2 Up : 5,920 wot rpm (souls sitting front of each other)

            OB is still over revving with 2 up, with 3 up should dial ideal 5800 wot rpm but that won't happen as like boating relatively light with spacious deck. After full maintenance finishes will test with a OEM alum 3 blade 8.5 pitch prop and see which rpm dials ? Definitely way less...

            Happy Boating
            Last edited by Sea Rider; September 19th, 2017, 03:05 PM.


            Sea Rider 320, 380 Sibs, 450 Rib, 2 Strokes Tohatsu 5,18 & 30 HP Proud Smokers

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            • Lower powerhead was found very clean due to periodic CRC decarbon spray application through carb, all water paths were found clean, a long water flush with fresh water after salt water use accounts for this.



              Thermostat was removed and polished along a new gasket lightly greased and bolted back.



              Impeller housing was removed, liner was well polished to smooth finger tip perfection. This is the original impeller that came with OB, looks mint. Water pressure is outstanding, impeller keeps peeing for 15 seconds after OB has come to a stop.



              Changed gear oil, now with Amalie 80-90 High Viscosity grade, a new alum 3 blade 8.5 pitch will power combo, replaces a 8 pitch prop.



              Lower leg anodes & trim tab were polished to perfection, were extremely salted and pitted.



              Powerhead was flushed for 15 min with high water pressure with hose through upper flushing port, should get rid of any salt formation building up inside.




              A Dremel 700 rotary tool along my fab 5 allies helped removing gaskets leftovers, polishing & shinning with toothpaste different metal parts to new condition. Total time invested : 14 hours. Cost $ 10.00 and some cold ones...




              Happy Boating
              Last edited by Sea Rider; September 25th, 2017, 11:06 AM.


              Sea Rider 320, 380 Sibs, 450 Rib, 2 Strokes Tohatsu 5,18 & 30 HP Proud Smokers

              Comment


              • Sea Rider......"Impeller housing was removed, liner was well polished to smooth finger tip perfection. This is the original impeller that came with OB, looks mint. Water pressure is outstanding, impeller keeps peeing for 15 seconds after OB has come to a stop."

                Boys up here telling me to replace every three years due to dry out. Do yours last longer due to have access to water year round and or keeping out of sand the trick?
                Last edited by Pack Rat; September 26th, 2017, 05:03 AM.
                www.denniskilbride.com

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                • Pack Rat,

                  Pics appears and disappears, don't know why, did you happen to check the 800 hour impeller pic condition ?

                  To understand :

                  -Not all impeller brands last that long (Tohatsu outlast all)

                  -Not all impeller brands use same materials when manufacturing their impellers, some use rubber which is stiffer, other use elastomers, way more flexible and long lasting than rubber, Also deforms way less when sitting for long time periods with compressed vanes inside liners. Will fully expand vanes when taken out of liner, rubber won't, that's a plus.

                  -Impeller duration will depend entirely where you go boating, say clean fresh/salt water, fresh/salt water with too much sand, dust, whatever suspended, clean/muddy rivers. The latter besides shortening the impeller life will inevitably ruin the impeller liner, for those situations there are SS liners that last way longer than the standard ones.

                  Now you have a better vision about what's going on with impellers and their life span. It's up to each one if going for a full water pump change, just the impeller or even a new impeller with polished liner..

                  Happy Boating
                  Last edited by Sea Rider; December 1st, 2017, 02:25 PM.


                  Sea Rider 320, 380 Sibs, 450 Rib, 2 Strokes Tohatsu 5,18 & 30 HP Proud Smokers

                  Comment


                  • 8.5 Pitch Prop / Hardline Hour/Tach Updates.-

                    Same Fixed 500 KG.
                    1 Up ; 5950 Wot revs : + 150 rpm over max range.
                    2 Up : 5850 Wot revs : + 50 rpm over max range.

                    Faster hole shot has decreased more than a bit as achieved with a 8 pitch, although gained slight more top end speed.

                    Screams much less at full throttle and fuel economy has increased more than before.
                    Combo cruises nicely while maintaining full plane at 4700 rpm.


                    Impossible to ask for more, runs already at its max. Luckily bought an extra 8.5 prop for just in case unexpected issues. My quest for top boating perfection running a very underpowered OB to achieve its full wot range as usually loaded has ended successfully...

                    Notes to consider.-

                    OB's factory delivered with usually medium pitch props should be propped right soon after break end period has ended, same applies to second hand OB's as won't know if previous owner prop it right for his application which probably does not match yours.

                    Although it's recommended that OB revs inside min to max wot rpm range, ideal is to rev as currently loaded between middle to max wot rpm range. At min OB is being lugged, which is bad.

                    We all know that if any OB is propped right to achieve max wot rpm range, boat will achieve excellent hole shot sacrifying slight top end speed. On the contrary if middle wot rpm is dialed, hole shot will be decreased with slight more top speed increase. Which mode is preferred ? it's entirely up to each boater.

                    Before going for a prop maximization to get all the ponies out of any OB fast must consider being 101% healthy, sitting at the sweet OB/Transom height well trimmed and with weight evenly distributed on deck. Although 3-5 % over revving over max wot is allowed to plane combo faster, don't play with prop pitches without a induction tach if wanting as the Brits say, Long live the OB

                    Happy Boating
                    Last edited by Sea Rider; November 6th, 2017, 10:48 AM.


                    Sea Rider 320, 380 Sibs, 450 Rib, 2 Strokes Tohatsu 5,18 & 30 HP Proud Smokers

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                    • Throughout my extensive boatingl life have only been left stranded at sea 4 times, 3 times by impeller overheat due to lower water intakes blockage while running full wot on kelpy sea cond and recently last Sunday. Scenario :

                      While running full wot OB came to a sudden stop as if with fuel starvation, bah, probably tank’s air valve closed or fuel connectors came off during operation. Wrong, all 3 working as they should.

                      My excellent taken care horse usually starts at first rope pull, so after 5 pulls dropped the towel, as OB won’t be revving any time soon was useless insisting on a frustrating restart tries. Being very near shore, headed to the marina, lifted the combo out of water straight onto its trailer. If not a mechanical issue, then it’s an electrical related problem, time for electrical troubleshooting which had very little experience. As stock all 4 electrical parts for OB to fire and run, was only a matter of swapping individual components to find the culprit fast, well that was what I erroneously thought

                      Swapped new kill cord switch, 0 avail, followed an Ignition Coil with O avail, next was a CDI swap, again 0 avail, deduction indicated that the culprit must be found under flywheel. Measured exciter’s resistance, a new one or one in excellent working order should read anywhere 130 to 195 Ohms.

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                      Current one had 0, assumed had shot internal winding. Removed flywheel and both exciter and alternator coils along harness and guess what, found a terrible shorting inside the circular clamp that protrudes out of plate which holds and secures plastic sleeve along wires to plate. This issue will show over time of constant flexing heated hardened cables when throttling extensively during boating time.

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                      Cleaned plate and flywheel’s magnets, the 18 HP has 4 huge ones, sends min 100 DVA volts to CDI. Installed a new Exciter Coil, both cables have been conveniently wrapped with 3M electrical tape to form a false sleeve. Have removed Alternator Coil from plate, it’s useless to count with one if you don’t use or plan using a battery on board to power gadgets

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                      Replaced back old parts previously taken out except new Exciter Coil, why put new parts if oldies are doing their respectively homework spot on and strong. Shot Exciter Coil was found unaltered has 167 Ohms resistance within specs, a matter or rebuilding both cables to their original length, insert a plastic sleeve over cables and save it as a refurbished spare.

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                      Installed a spark tester, the one with the translucent bulb, right in middle of spark plug boot and spark tip. IC output is so strong that lighted a small dark room at first pull when testing both plugs sparks individually. So it’s no wonder for ignition coils to produce such high 20-30 K volts low amps outputs.

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                      With spark plugs removed, took advantage to measure cylinder compression with a new meter, with cold OB and 5 vigorous pulls each read 120 PSI on upper cylinder and 118 PSI on lower one. Incredible that with 820 metered run hours maintains such an even and high compression, definitely carbon tune up sprayed periodically through carb, clean water paths to cool down OB right along well gapped spark plugs changed periodically each 100 worked hours , accounts for this.

                      Connected fuel connectors, primed bulb firm, hooked flush muffs, opened water faucet and Bingo, started first pull, OB runs much smoother and stronger than before, seems has been losing electricity under flywheel for quite a time. Tomorrow is open sea water trail, have plain confidence in the work done that all lights will be green and good to go…

                      Bottomline, if you don’t stock shelf electrical parts to swap and find culprit right on would recommend to acquire an analog or digital multimeter with DVA Volt reading capabilities to efficiently troubleshoot exciter, ignition coils and CDI voltage outputs which won’t read accurate while using a non DVA meter. Meter will pay for itself in the first electrical troubleshooting savings by not paying three shaded mechanics, outboard shops or marinas by the hour. It’s productive money wisely invested..

                      Happy Boating




                      Sea Rider 320, 380 Sibs, 450 Rib, 2 Strokes Tohatsu 5,18 & 30 HP Proud Smokers

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                      • Was pending the final arrangement of the exciter coil cable that shorted some time ago due to excessive bending stress while throttling. Now counting with a 24 mm flywheel nut socket and small puller decided to do the job myself and not resort to third party mechanics. Removing nut was real easy, a hard bang with a heavy hammer on socket extension did the trick.

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                        Installed the flywheel puller, while tightening the 3 long screws that secures to upper flywheel it popped out smoothly. Didn’t have to twist center large bolt with wrench.

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                        Wrapped several turns of 3M electrical tape to both cables that powers exciter coil to make a very thick cable arrangement.

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                        Now cable bends with much less angle, will assure a longer cable duration than before and 0 electrical issues that could leave you stranded at sea heading to nowhere land.


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                        Happy Boating


                        Sea Rider 320, 380 Sibs, 450 Rib, 2 Strokes Tohatsu 5,18 & 30 HP Proud Smokers

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                          Finally finished preparing the Rib for what’s left of summer which has been dramatically extended to my content. Hull has been pressure washed with a Karcher washing machine while hanging on a crane which is ideal.

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                          Mold, algae build ups around keel protector, lower inflatable tubes and rear of transom has been wiped cleaned to perfection using a higher water pressure setting.

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                          Once dry, hull has been hand polished to perfection with CIF cream and latter waxed with FW1 cleaning wax which has the property of displacing water, so theoretically Rib at wot should gain slight more top end speed,

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                          Tubes has been throughoutfully cleaned with CIF and Mary Kate inflatable cleaner and sun protected afterwords with 303 Aerospace Protectant. UV radiation punishment down here has increased dramatically over the years, so this is a must product to have handy to apply from time to time if wanting as the Brits say Long Live the Rib. The Admiral has done an outstanding restoration work.

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                          Powerhead has been flushed at low pressure for 20 minutes with same Karcher machine used previously. This 18 OB amazes me more and more, can be flushed through any of the following methods : Barrel, muffs, exhaust cover port or lower leg port, for the last two will need a Tohatsu adapter to hook a water hose there. Still 100 more hour use to go for same general overhauling done previously at 600 worked hours

                          Happy Boating




                          Sea Rider 320, 380 Sibs, 450 Rib, 2 Strokes Tohatsu 5,18 & 30 HP Proud Smokers

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