Intex Mariner 4 modifications and Tips

[Bonaventure]

The 20 inch shaft is too long, so it will sit too deep in the water. I am sorry to tell you this. That 30 inch shaft on the electric is so it can be mounted on the bow of an outboard style boat. It is adjustable and when it is mounted on the transom, the motor is slid up to the right height. That is why you see in photos of the Mariner 4 with an electric trolling motor that the handle part of the motor is high.

If you cannot change the motor for a 15 inch leg, you can make a wooden adapter that is through bolted to the plastic pad of the motor mount. Make a piece of hardwood the height you wish to raise the engine (ie 5 inches), glue (using epoxy) and screw 1/4 inch Plywood "cheeks" to both sides that will go down over the plastic mount pad. Drill 4 holes in the cheeks, put it on the plastic piece and drill through for bolts going right through. Make this item close to the width of the mounting pad.

Be sure that the location of any bolts and screws do not interfere with clamping the motor in place.

I believe that having the engine raised like this may be better, especially if you use an steering extension tube so you can sit farther forward.

 

[jamattat]

Appreciate the answer. Looks like my first mod will be getting this engine to work unless I can exchange the one I bought from the dealer. Is 20" common on other boats? In other words, would it be worth while just to put the work into making the 20" one work for the inflatable in case I get another boat down the road? It seems that 15" would be too short for any other boat other than these inflatables, so maybe its better I keep the one I have (if this thought makes sense)?

 

[Bonaventure]

For fresh water, in small motors, 15 inch is more common. Even a lot of mid size - 25 or so HP have 15 inch. Having said that, I don't think you should worry about it. The 20 inch is often used on sailboats, and as a "Kicker" engine for larger fishing boats. A kicker is used for trolling, the big motor is raised and the smaller engine is used to push the boat at slow speeds. This saves fuel, larger motors often don't idle efficiently for slow speed work. This makes the higher leg length easy to sell.

If you can change your motor for a 15 inch version without a lot of fuss you should do so. If not, then make the wooden piece I described in my previous post. the thickness is 1.25 inches by 5 inch height. Make it as long as is convenient to clamp your motor in place. If you buy a different boat you can do the same thing for it, you may be able to use the same piece and shim the difference in transom thickness.

Having the motor sit higher may even prove to be better, giving nice clearance to steer the vessel.

 

[jamattat]

Bonaventure I appreciate your time writing these answers. Dealer won't return engine as they said warranty started. So I am going forward with your "sandwich" mount idea. I think I will use a piece of pressure treated hardwood I have from a leftover deck project as the "meat". Then I think I will use two galvanized deck plates to sandwich the hardwood. Then through bolt the whole thing at 4 or so spots. If this works, it will be a super cheap fix, and even if I need to replace the mount once in awhile, the parts are only a few $$. I'll keep you and other's posted in case this is a success. I also have purchased 3/4 pex pip to rig up a bimini top / canopy which I am copying from Backroomlabs off youtube

 

[Bonaventure]

I wouldn't use the galvanized steel, there is a 40 pound weight limit on the mount and the plates will be heavy to add to the weight of the engine. Quarter inch exterior plywood will be plenty strong and not nearly so. Plywood is also quite stiff.

 

[ScottishScript]

ScottishScript I noticed from your video you seem to do a lot of trolling. How many trolling hours are you getting on the water and what is your setup. I am planning on doing some trolling myself for Walleye and pike but I am worried my setup isn't going to get me much troll time. I have an optima group 27 with 66 ah and a minn Kota 55 with a 50 amp draw at max speed. That is only going to get me around an hour and a half at full speed

The subject of batteries and motors is the very definition of a quagmire, so many variables.

I've been doing this for nearly four years now and in that time I've killed a few batteries because I simply drained them too much and they never recovered their full charge again. Let me just say, at a time when corporations are pouring billions into improving cell phone batteries, won't someone invest a hundred bucks to improve the technology of deep cycle batteries for friggin' boats?!

Let me try to relate what I've learned as simply as I can.

I was using a 40lb Minn Kota Endura Max until a few months ago. My go to batteries are 130 AH deep cycle batteries- Explorer brand. On the 40lb Minn Kota my trolling speed was usually 40-50% thrust depending on whether I have a head or a tail wind. I would expect to go for about 4 hours solid trolling which would deplete the battery about 40-50% of their charge. At 50% I always switch to a fresh battery.

Since doing it this way I've found it definitely prolongs the life of the battery and ensures a full recharge. If you drain the battery by 70% I've found it never recharges back to a full 100% capacity. Do that enough times and your battery will last less time each time you go out. This is my experience.

With my new 55lb Minn Kota Endura Max, in order to match the speed I used on my old 40lb motor, my thrust speed on this new engine is between 30-40% and I can go for the same 4 hours before changing my batteries.

Keep in mind though the Endura Max is supposed to extend the life of batteries compared to standard Endura models. Having only ever used the Max models, I cannot say just how effective this is.

So in short, to guarantee long life with your batteries, buy a high Amp Hour rating - 130 - and never drain it more than 50% on an outing, that way it'll recharge fully for the next outing. I've learned this from destroying 4 lower Amp Hour batteries over the years because I asked too much of them.

Hope this helps, and sorry for taking so long to answer.

 

[trey22]

Joining the Mariner 4 family, boat will be delivered tomorrow. Been reading (and reading, and reading) this thread from the beginning, at around page 90 or so... only 40 more to go!

Already have a MK Endura Max 45, Intex composite motor mount, Mighty Max 100AH AGM battery, MK Power Center, and a MK 105-P battery charger. Plan to purchase some Sailrite HH-66. Will use stencil and sharpie for registration characters. Also plan some sort of narrow table/bench across the middle of the boat (plan to place my battery underneath for weight distribution purposes).

A few questions on my planned mods are:

1. Wood floor. Looking at a 3 piece design. Since the boat tapers/arches up a bit at the ends:
- Is the 3 piece a good idea? Or should I go with 2? Plan to use original floor as template and take material off each edge. Of course the usual sand, seal, exterior carpet.

2. Cable extension for battery.
- Will use 6 gauge marine cable, but what type of connectors to go from the leads on the trolling motor (C connectors) to the battery on this cable extension? I do plan to shrink tube the connection points.

3. Seats / swivel mount / pedestal.
- Should I mount the seats on another piece of plywood that is then bolted to the wood floor? If so, what should the dimensions be? If not, since the floor is only 15/32, not sure how to mount seat pedestal directly to the floor without have bolts sticking out the bottom and possible puncturing the boat.

4. Registration sticker.
- How to affix this to the boat so it doesn't peel off and float away? Some sort of overlay?

5. Does the Intex motor mount need any reinforcement?

6. Will probably go with a 8 or 10 pound mushroom anchor.
- Not sure what type of cord/rope to use?
- Do I need some sort of anchor cleat or where else could I tie off?
- How to avoid to the boat with the rubbing of sliding anchor up and down?

7. I also have on the way a MK-P2 power prop. Not sure I'll use it unless it has advantages over the original prop.
- Does anyone have experience with this prop?

Thanks in advance, this community is informative and more importantly, patient with us newbies.

 

[KnightAngler]

So I'm working on my mods now and I can at least tell you what I will be doing. I will attach pictures once I'm done.

1. I'm going with the two piece version of the floor since being able to stand and fish is important to me and I worry that the 3 piece version will give up too much stability in that respect. I agree though that this will likely put some bad pressure on the seams which will need to be patched now and again, but that will probably be necessary regardless. Also, the three piece version would make one rather large middle piece which would be harder to transport in a car.

2. I'm guessing this is to put the battery at the front to distribute the weight? I would just put your anchor and other gear at the front and keep the battery in the back. I don't want wires running across the floor of my boat.

3. I was conflicted on this myself. I didn't want to bolt any seats to the floor since that would be a very tedious process when setting up and tearing down the boat. My solution (NOT TESTED YET) was to buy some foldable swivel chairs (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1). I'm not sure yet if these chairs will be stable enough on the two piece floor, but if so than it will be a great way to have very portable bass chairs. If they arn't stable than I will find a way to leash them to the floor boards with bungies.

4. You can either buy/make a inflatable boat license plate or use stencil and sharpie. For the actual state decal, I bought a velcro patch which I will attach to the sticker when I go out and then put it in my bag when packing up.

5. Shouldn't need any reinforcement as long as your motor is less than 40 pounds.

6. Concerning anchors, I would go heavy (10 pounds at minimum). I plan to drop anchors off both the bow and stern as I've heard that one of the biggest drawbacks to these boats is that the wind will constantly blow you around. Just use an anchor line or paracord (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1). I'm going to clip my anchor line to the rope that wraps around the boat.

 

[oldmansivo]

New guy here with an odd question. I have had a Seahawk II for a couple of years and I love it, and my wife just got me a Mariner 4 as a graduation present. I already have a set up for lake fishing for me and my boy, but I would like to take it on the rivers as well. The problem is that the rivers around me in Montana get pretty bony in the later season and I would like to have an inflatable floor to provide some cushion. Has anyone tried to figure this out or am I the only one?

 

[waptap]

ScottishScript , can you post the dimensions of your new improved floor (especially the cuts around the top)? Was just about to do some cutting for a floor this weeked when I saw your new and improved version posted. Many thanks!

-Wap

 

[ScottishScript]

ScottishScript , can you post the dimensions of your new improved floor (especially the cuts around the top)? Was just about to do some cutting for a floor this weeked when I saw your new and improved version posted. Many thanks!

-Wap

Take about an inch and a half to two inches off my original width - God knows where that post is, somewhere in the page 90's I think - then use the triangular ends of the original floor to mark out with a marker, then cut to shape the front and back ends on the wood to mimic that original floor shape there. Follow me?

 

[jbcurt00]

God knows where that post is, somewhere in the page 90's I think

And thats exactly why its often better to have a topic per boat instead of 1 giant topic w them all mashed together. If Scott had a topic about his Mariner, it'd be easy for him to find and link it.

FYI: page numbers are only relavent if you both have your forum viewing preferences setup the same. This topic is only 50pgs long the way I have mine setup, 40posts per page, IIRC.

 

[waptap]

Take about an inch and a half to two inches off my original width - God knows where that post is, somewhere in the page 90's I think - then use the triangular ends of the original floor to mark out with a marker, then cut to shape the front and back ends on the wood to mimic that original floor shape there. Follow me?

I follow, thank you! Btw, page 89 (if you usedefault forum settings) -- it's post #1332.

So, Scott you had 88 cm width. I am going to take this to 83.82 cm, or from 34.65 inches to 33. Sound workable or should I trim down another little bit (I am going to wrap some marine carpet around the top and sides of the floor).

Wap

 

[ScottishScript]

I follow, thank you! Btw, page 89 (if you usedefault forum settings) -- it's post #1332.

So, Scott you had 88 cm width. I am going to take this to 83.82 cm, or from 34.65 inches to 33. Sound workable or should I trim down another little bit (I am going to wrap some marine carpet around the top and sides of the floor).

Wap

I'd start with that and see how it goes. Easier to trim a few cm's than try to glue them back on.

And unless your adding a plush pile shag carpet I wouldn't worry, the boat tubes should press all that down on the sides.

I started out by using carpet tiles, completely ignoring the fact I live in Scotland. First time out was a downpour and I can still recall lifting out the floor boards at the end of the session. The boards that had tripled in weight due to water logged carpet tiles.

Why did I do something so stupid? Because I was reading posts from people living in nicer climates. Everyone had carpets, so I blindly followed, but the lesson was learned well. Everyone, even those living in the same climate has slightly different needs and should always remember that.

As for yourself, are you using bolt in chairs? Because if so, most of your carpet will be out of reach anyway. Might want to consider just having a separate rug you can roll across the middle of the boat, that way you can remove it if it gets wet or super stinky.

On a different subject, my second Mariner 4 is showing it's age and displaying all the faults of age it's predecessor did. I really need to get around to writing a long post on my varied experience with tending a dying Mariner 4 and doing all I can to extend its life.

I'm certain there are plenty others here have much to share on this same topic.

 

[trey22]

Take about an inch and a half to two inches off my original width - God knows where that post is, somewhere in the page 90's I think - then use the triangular ends of the original floor to mark out with a marker, then cut to shape the front and back ends on the wood to mimic that original floor shape there. Follow me?

I went with the "original" measurements... will I end up a having leak issues? Should I re-do the floor?

 

[ScottishScript]

I went with the "original" measurements... will I end up a having leak issues? Should I re-do the floor?

Don't panic. I think I had issues because my boards were constantly damp from Scottish weather and swelled a little. And keep in mind these boats are not built to NASA standards, they'll all be a little different size wise on the floor.

If you find your boards are a little tight on the sides, just shave an inch off one side on the boards, problem solved. If you find it fits fine, leave it.

 

[trey22]

Gotcha!

 

[Jiggyjay]

Love how this thread is still going! I haven't been active but still get on here to read up here..

 

[krazyheaven]

I just brought this boat. Currently I have a si fish finder 5 inch humminbird, a 30 trolling motor and a 3.5 hp motor. Haven't used the fish finder or the hp motor yet.
My first day out with the trolling motor didn't go so hot. I'd get about 2 cast in before I had to sit down and bring the boat back to it's spot. I also didn't find the trolling motor that easy to control but it might be me. Thinking of maybe going with a foot one.

In a perfect world I would like to go with a bow trolling motor with the hp motor in the transom. But looks like that is going to require some work judging from the first post here. I haven't been able to read through the whole thread but has their been easier to design motor mounts? Without the specialist work required to bend pipes?

Any ideas on how to attach the fish finder would be helpful as well.

 

[jbcurt00]

But looks like that is going to require some work judging from the first post here. I haven't been able to read through the whole thread but has their been easier to design motor mounts? Without the specialist work required to bend pipes?

Perfect example of why it is often better to start a new topic and ask specifics to your project, instead of having all the info buried in 1 giant, length topic.

That info might be buried in here somewhere, or might not. If you don't get a reply in a day or 2, start a topic specific to your boat and what you want to modify/mount on it. Maybe someone who doesn't have an Intex might see it and reply w helpful info. Non-Intex owners are less likely to poke around in here, but as a RIB/SIB owner they may still have helpful advice........

Good luck w your Intex. I can't offer any helpful advice, except to post pix of yours when you start a topic about it. The last one I was in was a 9f+/-t Zodiac, 35yrs ago.