Intex Mariner 4 modifications and Tips

[eclipse3gen]

Re: Intex Mariner 4 modifications and Tips

eclipse
HMMMMM can't relate. I am 6'4 and a svelt 270..... LOL

hmmm... thats tested, so you should be alright! but not sure if you should invite your other half(s) on board just yet! lol

 

[Rakumi]

Re: Intex Mariner 4 modifications and Tips

Good to hear. I've got a sheet of 5/8" in my garage waiting for the boat to show up tomorrow. I didn't know if the 1/2" would have a little give while standing on it, so I went with the 5/8".
I also happen to have a full can of "interioir/exterioir porch & floor gloss polyurethane enamel" that was left in my garage by the previous homeowner. Any idea if this would do the trick before carpeting the plywood? I've also got some typical exterior latex paint. If neither of these is ideal, I don't mind picking up a can of the proper stuff to keep that wood floor in good shape.

just to throw in the mix, i started with 11/32 plywood as a trial piece (not connected, painted, and no carpet). I felt the bend when i walk on it, not when i stood still though. So i figured 1/2 or so would not work (did not pre read that many have already used 1/2 with success) so i did 3/4. I only added carpet and i have it on the excursion 5 so it is a lot of wood. It is heavy to lift because it is hinged as one (clam shell) but the boat holds it well and is super sturdy. Carpetting around means i do not need pipe insulation. I have used 2 times so far on water with amazing results. More stable and very easy to walk on. Also distributes weight very well.

 

[eclipse3gen]

Re: Intex Mariner 4 modifications and Tips

just to throw in the mix, i started with 11/32 plywood as a trial piece (not connected, painted, and no carpet). I felt the bend when i walk on it, not when i stood still though. So i figured 1/2 or so would not work (did not pre read that many have already used 1/2 with success) so i did 3/4. I only added carpet and i have it on the excursion 5 so it is a lot of wood. It is heavy to lift because it is hinged as one (clam shell) but the boat holds it well and is super sturdy. Carpetting around means i do not need pipe insulation. I have used 2 times so far on water with amazing results. More stable and very easy to walk on. Also distributes weight very well.

I am going to try it with 15/32. how small are your pieces? do you have all of them hinged as one?

 

[Rakumi]

Re: Intex Mariner 4 modifications and Tips

96 inches divided into 2 and each 37 inches across. Hinged together making it clam shell design so 48x37 folded and 96.5x37 extended (hinges add .5 inch between). Slides folded with the 37inch side vertical along the floor in rear row seats. So it is leaning between the front seats back and the rear seats front.

 

[flukesofnature]

Re: Intex Mariner 4 modifications and Tips

96 inches divided into 2 and each 37 inches across. Hinged together making it clam shell design so 48x37 folded and 96.5x37 extended (hinges add .5 inch between). Slides folded with the 37inch side vertical along the floor in rear row seats. So it is leaning between the front seats back and the rear seats front.

Off the record..has anyone using the hinged method, found that the hinges pinch the keel section? Sounds like an accident looking to happen, with all the posts on those "not"using hinges showing the sections completely stable without the hinges...why take the chance? When I did the floor for my M3 there was a slight overlap until all the chambers were filled..and then the pieces fit together like a glove, with each end being covered with the pipe insulation....no pinching has ever occurred. Each piece being half the dimension of the long measurement of the floor...I think 47 inch each(94 total for the M3)Each of those easily come out during take down (reverse for set up) and are easily toted to car.
Is the M4 that much bigger that it needs to be hinged?

 

[AKTrout]

Re: Intex Mariner 4 modifications and Tips

Off the record..has anyone using the hinged method, found that the hinges pinch the keel section? Sounds like an accident looking to happen, with all the posts on those "not"using hinges showing the sections completely stable without the hinges...why take the chance? When I did the floor for my M3 there was a slight overlap until all the chambers were filled..and then the pieces fit together like a glove, with each end being covered with the pipe insulation....no pinching has ever occurred. Each piece being half the dimension of the long measurement of the floor...I think 47 inch each(94 total for the M3)Each of those easily come out during take down (reverse for set up) and are easily toted to car.
Is the M4 that much bigger that it needs to be hinged?

I don't think so. Like you said there are many examples on this thread without hinges that say its totally stable and solid. I initially was thinking to hinge, but am not going to now. Not only does it make it easier carrying each piece separately, but the pinching was also a concern that came to my mind. I haven't decided if I'm going for a two piece floor (split at midpoint) or three piece like many have done. Most with the three piece have two equal size portions and the third is just a short piece at the bow. I'm going to consider what three equal size pieces would be like when I lay it out on the plywood in the next day or two.

 

[Rakumi]

Re: Intex Mariner 4 modifications and Tips

Off the record..has anyone using the hinged method, found that the hinges pinch the keel section? Sounds like an accident looking to happen, with all the posts on those "not"using hinges showing the sections completely stable without the hinges...why take the chance? When I did the floor for my M3 there was a slight overlap until all the chambers were filled..and then the pieces fit together like a glove, with each end being covered with the pipe insulation....no pinching has ever occurred. Each piece being half the dimension of the long measurement of the floor...I think 47 inch each(94 total for the M3)Each of those easily come out during take down (reverse for set up) and are easily toted to car.
Is the M4 that much bigger that it needs to be hinged?

I decided on hinged because I did not want the 2 pieces in the boat to either overlap or if I stood on one piece, it sink down while the other piece is still at normal height. I wanted both to flex in if I stood at the center of the boat. At the inner end of each half, I cut each side like a half hexagon. This caused me to not have edges at the ends where the 2 pieces connected. I did this so it could never pinch the side of the boat (not that it was likely anyway). I also placed the hinges on the top side of the floor folding so that the bottom belly of the floor was in the clam shell side and the carpet was on the outside of the clam shell. So I have not had any issues. I have the excursion 5 so my floor is as long as the plywood was when I bought it and still about 4-5 inches short of tip to tip for the inside of the boat.

 

[Rakumi]

Re: Intex Mariner 4 modifications and Tips

Hey Ak, my assumption is that more sections will equate to less sturdy as no sections would equal most sturdy. So I prefer just one spit for my taste. Good luck.

 

[mrdrh99]

Re: Intex Mariner 4 modifications and Tips

I have two pieces but thinking of making a new floor... 3 pieces with c channel along the side like the floors in bigger inflatables

 

[eclipse3gen]

Re: Intex Mariner 4 modifications and Tips

Hey Ak, my assumption is that more sections will equate to less sturdy as no sections would equal most sturdy. So I prefer just one spit for my taste. Good luck.

thats what my worry is and hence trying to figure out if anyone did moren than 3 sections and if they used anything to join them.

I have two pieces but thinking of making a new floor... 3 pieces with c channel along the side like the floors in bigger inflatables

i've been searching for the c and h channels everwhere but no luck. which C channel are you planning to use?

 

[AKTrout]

Re: Intex Mariner 4 modifications and Tips

I have two pieces but thinking of making a new floor... 3 pieces with c channel along the side like the floors in bigger inflatables

I suppose the benefit here over the floor you already have is that the C channel would add enough support that the floor would feel like one solid piece when all assembled? Hmmm, that's an interesting idea.

 

[mrdrh99]

Re: Intex Mariner 4 modifications and Tips

I suppose the benefit here over the floor you already have is that the C channel would add enough support that the floor would feel like one solid piece when all assembled? Hmmm, that's an interesting idea.

Yeah that's the general idea... It'll really cut down on the size of the floor but not the stability

 

[mrdrh99]

Re: Intex Mariner 4 modifications and Tips

I suppose the benefit here over the floor you already have is that the C channel would add enough support that the floor would feel like one solid piece when all assembled? Hmmm, that's an interesting idea.

Aluminum.... Sells for around $10 at Lowe's

 

[eclipse3gen]

Re: Intex Mariner 4 modifications and Tips

Aluminum.... Sells for around $10 at Lowe's

I dont have a lowes nearby but if you are talking about the 1/4in think aluminum channels that you can also find at menards for $6/7, not sure if they are wide and strong enough. rather similar metal ones may do much better job. i will try to check out lowes this weekend.

is it possible to find the bigger c/h channels they use in other inflatables?

 

[AKTrout]

Re: Intex Mariner 4 modifications and Tips

So I cut my floor yesterday. It made more sence to do three sections than two when you have an 8' piece of plywood. Like many on this thread, I did two 4' sections and a 1' piece at the bow. Looking at where I'd want to place the pedestal seats, I found the right spot for the bow seat would probably be right where the keel valve is. That's unfortunate, because the seat will have to be placed more aft and that will mean more space up front and less room in the middle to cast, etc. You can still store gear up in the bow (that is where I want my battery) but I would have liked that additional room between the seats. I think if you put the seat forward of the keel valve that doesn't provide much room to swivel, and it's getting close to the edge of the plywood... I'll have to take a look at that.
Now I just need to decide if I want the clean look of one piece of carpet attached across all three pieces or to carpet them separately for ease of portability/installation. Ahhh, so many choices in the customization process.

 

[Rakumi]

Re: Intex Mariner 4 modifications and Tips

Hey AK,
many people including myself went for the simple cooler as a bench seat solution. I bought a thin stadium seat cushion and sit on the cooler. The cooler doubles as storage and it is easy for me to move it around when i want it in a different place. Interested in such a solution? Or get creative and drill the seats you want to the top of a cooler?

 

[ronaldj]

Re: Intex Mariner 4 modifications and Tips

I used a cooler last summer.
I have since learned that it really has to be a Marine cooler if used in salt water.
The hardware on a regular cooler will corrode.
Also the parts on marine coolers can be replaced.
There are also cushions made for the coolers
I also have a fishing seat mounted to a seat bracket that clamps onto the cooler.

This spring I built a wooden bench seat to use and I put a under seat storage bag/seat cushion on it and I'm trying the seat bag as a cooler.
I just tried this to save space.
I also have the fish finder and marine radio attached to the wooden bench.
I also have clamp on rod holders on the bench.
The bench was created to have additional mounting points that I could not do using the cooler.
If I could figure out a way to add the mounting points to a marine cooler, I would go back to a marine cooler

 

[flukesofnature]

Re: Intex Mariner 4 modifications and Tips

So I cut my floor yesterday. It made more sence to do three sections than two when you have an 8' piece of plywood. Like many on this thread, I did two 4' sections and a 1' piece at the bow. Looking at where I'd want to place the pedestal seats, I found the right spot for the bow seat would probably be right where the keel valve is. That's unfortunate, because the seat will have to be placed more aft and that will mean more space up front and less room in the middle to cast, etc. You can still store gear up in the bow (that is where I want my battery) but I would have liked that additional room between the seats. I think if you put the seat forward of the keel valve that doesn't provide much room to swivel, and it's getting close to the edge of the plywood... I'll have to take a look at that.
Now I just need to decide if I want the clean look of one piece of carpet attached across all three pieces or to carpet them separately for ease of portability/installation. Ahhh, so many choices in the customization process.

Ak
If you build the bow seat as a a fitted board that sits on the tubes ( see MRDR99 early pics in thread- aft work space as visual reference)( use some thing like styro between the board and the tube) so that the seat sits on the tubes. Then the cooler can fit under that for support and storage..or battery space. If battery space, PVC pipe can be used ..maybe 2 or 3 inch diameter can be inserted into pvc pipe caps, top and bottom for support( wide enough apart to almost be touching each side tube.The battery will slide between these two "PVC support posts" The caps can be mounted to the floor and the underside of the cross fit board, and the length of PVC to fit in those, to be removed easily on tear down, so don't cement them together. Then get a swivel for the seat that is flush mount..walmart sells them for about 9 buck. Attach seat to that swivel...it opens up the space under that for what ever and also access to keel valve. Because of the extra width of the M4, the two 3 inch PVC pipes will provide plenty of support.
I had to adjust them for my long legs, and they became 17 inches as a result of that, you might not need or want that length....the M4 tubes are only 11 inches high, so with the seat and board, and maybe two inches styro or cushion foam to protect the side tubes..you are talking about maybe 14 inches high when done.( from floor to top of swivel seat cushion)
If you go solo..the whole thing can be left off, or just use the work space instead of seat space

 

[dancour]

Re: Intex Mariner 4 modifications and Tips

I wonder if these guys would enjoy a Mariner 4.

 

[MarinerMike]

Re: Intex Mariner 4 modifications and Tips

Inflated the boat when it arrived yesterday. Noticed a fair amount of marks on the outer layer of material like it was folded and got a little too hot? Someone mentioned this early on in the thread, maybe it was mrdr. He posted a picture of it but I figured I would too since I had my tablet with me. Have you all found this common on your boats when it comes out of the package? All the chambers held air just fine, so I'm not concerned about it.
Also put the stock rollup floor in to check its size; seems like a good fit and i will just trace it onto my plywood.

I just received my Mariner 4 with motor mount. Mine has some of the same markings and creases but they look like they are starting to fade after inflating. I did have a question about the motor mount. I have the Intex composite mount and the tubes in the top mounting rings seem like you need to spread them apart to fit the mounting plate. In doing so it seems like it put a a lot more twisting pressure on the top mount rings - Is this normal?

Thanks