Chem-Calk on Aluminum Boat

Fishman_Kuzan

Recruit
Joined
Jul 4, 2013
Messages
3
Hey Everyone,

New to the forum. I've lurked on iboats for a couple of years and received many helpful tidbits on the very informative threads created by you all, thank you. Now that I am looking to upgrade from my little twelve foot Hewescraft to a more useful fishing boat that will entail more work and responsibility I decided to join and chronicle my adventures in boat ownership.

I have tracked down a 2002 16' Smokercraft, open-bow single console, Falcon... which seems to be similar to the lodge model that they have made over the years. I've made an offer at $5500 and we are working out the details. Boat comes with 2002 50HP 2-stroke Merc with electric trim, approx 10 gallon gas tank inboard, 40lb bow mount foot control Minn-Kota, two manual scotty downriggers and accecories, nav lights, no livewell but space and connections for one (really want a livewell), 5 seats, bimini top with side curtains and curtains that attach to the bow creating a windshield, galvinized bunk trailer (Smokercraft make), fairly new tires, two spares and that about covers it.

My first question is, is this a reasonable price? The size seems appropriate for my 4-cylinder Toyota and what I want to use it for (I live on the Snake River in WA and this will be its primary use, other than that big lake fishing like Chelan for kokanee, Couer d'Alene/Hayden/Potholes/Banks for warmwater fish, Columbia for salmon and maybe occassionaly the Puget Sound for salmon).

My second question is, has anyone heard of people using Chem Calk by Bostik to try and seal up rivets? The guy admitted the boat leaks a little, and I was thinking no big deal. Try to re-buck some of the leaky rivets, and if that didn't work put some new solid rivets in and try to coat the inside of the hull with Gluvit. However, he has smattered the Chem Calk on maybe 1/4 to 1/3 of the rivets on the outside of the boat and its not going to be easy to remove, and might take along a lot of the rivets its on. Just wondering if anyone has any experience with this?

I am thinking I may be able to chisel off what I can and sand down the rest, and replace the rivets that are covered with the stuff if neccessary. But, if this is a deal breaker I would like to know, Thank you! Look forward to the upcoming years in the forum!
 

Mel Taylor

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 25, 2009
Messages
489
Re: Chem-Calk on Aluminum Boat

I don't know anything about Chem Calk, but if more than a few rivets leak it would be a deal breaker for me. I've got two aluminum boats, a 1984 Mirrocraft and a 1982 Blue Fin. Neither one has been treated especially gently over the years and neither one leaks at all. Methinks the Chem Calk might be hiding serious problems.
 

jigngrub

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Mar 19, 2011
Messages
8,155
Re: Chem-Calk on Aluminum Boat

There are several problems with this purchase.

1. $5500 is very expensive for an 11 yr. old leaker, you should use this and other problems to bargain the price down... no more than $3K.

2. Since the boat has been leaking there a good chance the floatation foam is saturated and will need to be replaced, this is the other problem that should be used in bargaining.

3. Anyone that uses goo on the outside of a boat to stop leaks doesn't the slightest idea about how to repair a boat properly and there's no telling what else he has "duct taped" together on the boat that you'll have to straighten out.

If you decide to buy this boat I suggest lifting the decking and checking the foam for saturation and replace it if it's wet.

You can do a leak test to find out which rivets or seams are leaking by filling your boat with several inches of water and looking underneath for the leaks and mark them.

This is the easiest way to replace leaking rivets in an aluminum boat:
1989 Sylvan Boat Rebuild Part 4 - YouTube
 

Fishman_Kuzan

Recruit
Joined
Jul 4, 2013
Messages
3
Re: Chem-Calk on Aluminum Boat

Thanks for the advice to the two that responded. I didn't have the best feeling about the boat and the leak plus repair job. I wished them the best and passed on some of your advice.

I decided to go through a dealer on a certified used. Soon I will be the proud owner of a 2003 Smokercraft 162 LE Stileto with no leaks and a solid Yamaha motor
 
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