Just bought a new boat, what should I know?

harringtondav

Commander
Joined
May 26, 2018
Messages
2,438
One of my neighbors has the new whatever the 24 foot Glastron GT is called. It's a decent entry level boat as it is his very first..

Ouch!. I resemble that remark. I've been boating and maintaining boats for 44 yrs, including the last 23 with my own Larson. I've been 'wish book' shopping for my next boat. Those Cobalts and Bryants sure look nice. And I'd probably look pretty spiffy tooling around in one. But I can't justify the 2X price for just looking pretty.

Top shelf boats rot away as fast as any if not cared for. I'm pretty sure I can get into a new 19'-20' BR for <$38K if I grind the dealer enough, minus trade or private sale of my Larson. And the "entry level" boat I purchase will last a loong time, just like my entry level Larsen. 'Cuz I've learned DYI, and how to maintain and care for a boat.
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
11,849
I believe the 4.5 is a closed cooling system with heat exchanger. This protects the engine block from freezing, but the the exhaust system and circulating pump still must be drained. Merc has a "single point drain" system on these engines. But you may want to see what this forum says about that. I believe extra steps beyond Merc's stated process are required.

Pulling the out drive is within the capability of anyone with basic mechanical skills. With a new boat under warranty you could probably pass for a couple years. I'm betting you have an Alpha II, and that is not a man killer like the Bravo to remove. You trim up, disconnect the speedo tube, trim down close to ground, remove the upper steering cylinder pivot shaft. Place the shift control into full forward. Then remove the six nuts attaching the drive to the bell housing. Then pull it rearward, and off. Lots of help here at iBoats if you struggle.

No doubt I/Os are more work than an O/B. They don't self drain, and the drive shaft assembly is complicated, needing regular inspection. But the advantages are worth it, in my mind. Quiet, more fuel efficient, and more usable room in your boat and on your swim platform.

Have you driven or ridden in a boat with a modern 4 stroke outboard? Fuel efficiency? That's from the days of carbed 2 strokes, modern 4 stroke outboards are just as fuel efficient but for the same HP, 400 lbs lighter!
They are as quiet if not more so than an inboard, there is MORE deck space for sure without the V8 or V6 taking up the rear 3 feet of space, and what about the other outboard advantages?
1) no risk of fuel fumes in the bilge
2) no driveshaft bellows to leak and ruin the gimble bearing/ujoints
3) no cooling hoses in the bilge that if they fail, fill your bilge with sea water

I liked my I/O for the simple GM marine engine, and inexpensive parts. I grew up with Chevrolet small blocks. However, here in the salt pond their is no way on God's green earth, I'd ever have another I/O especially with ultra expensive to replace cat converter exhaust. For me any future boat is outboards all the way. It is only a question of, Evinrude vs the 4 strokes. I'm liking the Evinrude....10 year warrantee....
 

wahlejim

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 23, 2015
Messages
884
Congrats on your purchase! Properly taken care of, it will last you decades without any major repairs. The good news is that if you encounter any major issues in the first couple of years, the warranty should cover it. Become familiar with the winterization process for your engine and drive. Don't pay someone to do it unless you just aren't comfortable with it or find a heck of a deal (my first year I found someone to winterize, change oil, gear lube, filters, etc.) for about $150. That was a deal! Next winter, he upped to $350 to match market rates, I found someone else in the $200 range. Let him try it and was very disappointed. I label all of my filters with dates of install, and when it came back, filters were not touched. Oil was not golden. After more argument than it should have taken, he finally admitted he just drained the block, filled with anti-freeze and skipped everything else because he was backed up. Got a refund and learned how to do everything else myself that year. Now it is a small afternoon project that I can do more thoroughly than most shops in my area and for under $100 US.

The biggest piece of advise I can give is to use this forum as a hobby. Read through it a couple of times a week, especially the mercruiser section. It is amazing how much you can learn through other people's problems. Even if you aren't having issues right now, you will have them eventually and the issue may be covered already on here. Also, it gives you a good idea of forum etiquette. Responses are a lot more helpful if you know how to ask the question.
 

roffey

Commander
Joined
Nov 22, 2012
Messages
2,191
I find this forum very good for DIY. These guys can be a little hard on some people but I guess you get tired of the same questions over and over and some untruth or fertilizer that's get spread, lol. I have a 4.3 liter motor and do all the winterizing on it my self. Very easy and meant to be DIY, 5 plugs and the block is drained. Change all filters at and oil at end of season and water impeller every 4 years. I take the boat back to the dealer every so often to let them have a looks and check things I forgot, peace of mind.
 

harringtondav

Commander
Joined
May 26, 2018
Messages
2,438
For me any future boat is outboards all the way. It is only a question of, Evinrude vs the 4 strokes. I'm liking the Evinrude....10 year warrantee....

Can't disagree Lou, with any of your points. But I've been window shopping for my next boat. Glastron, Larson, Rinker all price their O/B version of a 200 hp $8-$10K over the Merc 4.5.

But maybe it'd be worth it in the long run. No gaping keyhole cut out with all it's leak points, easy winterization etc. And my Son and daughter would eventually own it. Zero maintenance skills.
 

jkust

Rear Admiral
Joined
Aug 2, 2008
Messages
4,942
Ouch!. I resemble that remark. I've been boating and maintaining boats for 44 yrs, including the last 23 with my own Larson. I've been 'wish book' shopping for my next boat. Those Cobalts and Bryants sure look nice. And I'd probably look pretty spiffy tooling around in one. But I can't justify the 2X price for just looking pretty.

Top shelf boats rot away as fast as any if not cared for. I'm pretty sure I can get into a new 19'-20' BR for <$38K if I grind the dealer enough, minus trade or private sale of my Larson. And the "entry level" boat I purchase will last a loong time, just like my entry level Larsen. 'Cuz I've learned DYI, and how to maintain and care for a boat.

It's not a dig, these boats are what they are. Great entry level new, dramatically cheaper than the upper end brands and still get you out on the water in style. It's been great for my buddy to learn how to be a boater with the Glastron and the bonus is you get the same engine and B3 drive as any other brand. We still have a 1984 Bayliner that was purchased by my dad at the boat show in the winter of 84 that is in nearly perfect original shape. Maybe the biggest piece of garbage ever produced and it just takes a little bit of care to keep any freshwater boat in excellent condition. That old Bayliner has outlasted a lot of boats for sure.
 

Old Ironmaker

Captain
Joined
Dec 28, 2015
Messages
3,050
Pulling the drive sounds very complicated for me, happen to know about how many hours a mechanic takes/charges for that? I'm a computer guy, I can build you AI but anything mechanical is beyond me.

A big congrats on the new Toy. You must be excited and looking forward to ice out. Based on the cold this week it may be a while Skater.

You said; am about as mechanically challenged as a Simian. I was paying ridiculous money to winterize my OB. Once I saw it done and a few You Tube videos I have saved many hundreds DIYing. I also have been a Paddywan at a buddies shop that has gotten into boat repairs and restorations. I have been learning about I/O's and maintenance. If I can learn new tricks so can you. Winterizing should include plumbers anti-freeze in any on board water drains and supplies if applicable. That statement may be followed by a discussion of the afore mentioned step. You have plenty of time to learn as that boat is brand spanking new. The one thing I do know for certain some specialized Merc tools are required to do certain tasks, like pulling the gimbal bearing. We have had to make our own tools at times. A local Marine dealer has stopped working on Merc engines due to the specialized tools that are needed. So I have been told by that dealer. The closest Merc mechanic is a 70 minute drive for me know. As far as what to expect for an hourly cost here in southern On. they charge bit north of 100 CDN. The closer you get to the GTA the more it costs, like most things.
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
11,849
Can't disagree Lou, with any of your points. But I've been window shopping for my next boat. Glastron, Larson, Rinker all price their O/B version of a 200 hp $8-$10K over the Merc 4.5.

But maybe it'd be worth it in the long run. No gaping keyhole cut out with all it's leak points, easy winterization etc. And my Son and daughter would eventually own it. Zero maintenance skills.

Agreed. I just cannot justify doing the I/O thing to myself again. The extra cost up front is made up by lower maintenance costs in the following years. Here in salt water land that cat converter exhaust is the deal breaker, the straw that broke the camel's back. For a Volvo I/O I priced out the cost of a new exhaust system. $6000 for both sides. And for us that's every 5-7 years. Now outboard parts are also really expensive, but at least you get:
lower maintenance
greater safety
here, better resale
more time on the water less time in the bilge.

$6000 for an exhaust system, put me over the edge.
The Barr Volvo style system I installed on my OMC in '17 to replace the NLA batwing one piece units, totaled out at about 1200 and that was only because I had to buy some V/P parts to make it work (90* aluminum exhaust pipes and hoses, but they do not have to get replaced when you do the exhaust replacement, a one time expense only). The aftermarket Barr manifolds and elbows were $710 for the set, all parts included.
I don't know how much Merc's cat converter exhaust costs to replace, hopefully less for people who own them.

As an old boat mechanic from the Bahamas once said, you can have an in (board) and out (board) but never an in and out! in Salt Water for sure....
 

harringtondav

Commander
Joined
May 26, 2018
Messages
2,438
Lou C Yea, I've pretty much talked myself into the $ delta. Newer boats with swim platform O/B motor mounts appear to have more room in the cockpit, with more people seating. If my Alpha II seal carrier tool and other gear case tools fit, it'll probably be a Merc O/B. I've got Merc props covered from 21-23P. Pretty sure they one of them is in the range of a 200-225 hp O/B on a 20' BR.

Saltwater CATs aren't a concern to me. I'm 100% fresh water. But an unknown Merc 4.5? And I'm getting too old for the I/O issues. Also, I'd be ready to boat in salty water if the opportunity ever showed itself.
 

SkaterRace

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 20, 2016
Messages
743
Pulling the drive sounds very complicated for me, happen to know about how many hours a mechanic takes/charges for that? I'm a computer guy, I can build you AI but anything mechanical is beyond me.

A big congrats on the new Toy. You must be excited and looking forward to ice out. Based on the cold this week it may be a while Skater.

You said; am about as mechanically challenged as a Simian. I was paying ridiculous money to winterize my OB. Once I saw it done and a few You Tube videos I have saved many hundreds DIYing. I also have been a Paddywan at a buddies shop that has gotten into boat repairs and restorations. I have been learning about I/O's and maintenance. If I can learn new tricks so can you. Winterizing should include plumbers anti-freeze in any on board water drains and supplies if applicable. That statement may be followed by a discussion of the afore mentioned step. You have plenty of time to learn as that boat is brand spanking new. The one thing I do know for certain some specialized Merc tools are required to do certain tasks, like pulling the gimbal bearing. We have had to make our own tools at times. A local Marine dealer has stopped working on Merc engines due to the specialized tools that are needed. So I have been told by that dealer. The closest Merc mechanic is a 70 minute drive for me know. As far as what to expect for an hourly cost here in southern On. they charge bit north of 100 CDN. The closer you get to the GTA the more it costs, like most things.

Thanks, and $100 is not too bad considering it costs something like $125 for a car mechanic. I'm planning to boat closer to Ottawa than the GTA even though I live in the GTA. I might have my eye on some water front land but that's a secret for now ;)

Winterizing doesn't seem too hard, I could figure it out I am sure I just am not confident in my mechanical abilities and with winterizing I'd be worried that I would mess up and crack the block or something else. Far as I know new blocks are not cheap. Never had an issue with the 1970's outboards I have had since they are dead simple to do.

I'm sure there will be work I do but as to the mechanical work on the engine and drive, might leave that to someone else unless I can get someone to show me. Maybe the mechanic I go to will show me how to do it, he's shown me lots so far.

Merc specialized tools sucks, guess it is their way of making sure the dealers get service work.
 
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