Old Guy new to the boat world

ButchGood

Cadet
Joined
Nov 28, 2018
Messages
11
I just got back into fishing here in Texas. I've been fishing from a kayak and having a blast. But now I want a little fishing boat, but I am on a poor mans budget. I'm looking for a used boats, let me rephrase that, I'm looking at OLD boats. That's all my budget will allow right now. Fishing through craigslist and Facebook Market Place looking for an aluminum shallow water fishing boats 15 to 19 feet long with a 30 to 65 HP motor. I've been seeing some boats between $1500 and $3000 that look good. They look well used, they have their dents and dings, but I'm not looking for anything that's that pretty. I'm willing and able to do cosmetic work and customize to my liking. The motors start and run. Well some do, and some don't. I am hearing, "It was running fine when I put it up". That's what I'm worried the most about. Can I trust these old late 80's early 90's motors to be dependable? Are these Motors that were "running good when I put it up last year" even worth taking the chance on?
Please, if anyone has advice for a first time used boat shopper I would greatly appreciate it. What should I look for, What to be aware of, or even if these old boats are worth even messing with. I'm slowly saving right now. I'm not in a huge hurry to buy. But I sure would like to have something by the time the Whites and Crappie start running the end of February.
 

Maclin

Admiral
Joined
May 27, 2007
Messages
6,761
Welcome Aboard!

Outboards can be in good working condition at that age, but as with anything "it depends".

One thing that is very important in Texas, is to get a valid title for the Hull AND the Outboard engine. You will need both to get started registering. Then every 2 years you just renew the hull registration.
 

TyeeMan

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Feb 27, 2006
Messages
849
Don't fall in love with the first boat you see, there will be more. Don't relay on the seller telling you the motor ran. You wan't to hear it run in a garbage can full of water or better yet on the lake where you can put a load on the boat

The main frame members of the trailer should be rock solid. Ancillary things like bunks, rollers, and an occasional light can be easily be replaced or upgraded.

As for the outboard, if it has been well cared for, absolutely you can trust them, , in my opinion. Up here in Minnesota there are still PLENTY of 1950's and 60's out boards running around that still run like a million bucks. But again, you want to hear the motor run, make sure there's plenty of cooling water being expelled either from the so called "pee hole" or idle relief port. Take the engine hood off, make sure there is no heat discoloration on the block or head indicating that the motor was run out of water or with a bad water pump. If the engine block and head colors don't mach you can automatically assume the engine was apart for major repairs.
 

roffey

Commander
Joined
Nov 22, 2012
Messages
2,184
I purchased a used boat last year, a 1968 9.5 on a 14 foot tin boat. The motor started second pull after sitting for 10 years. The only thing I had to change was the fuel pulp and gas tank. As you will hear condition is everything.
 

bchaney

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 3, 2018
Messages
246
I agree with the above posters, I would want to see the motor running on a hose at minimum before I handed over any cash for it. If it's a crazy good deal and you're willing to take the risk, go for it, but be prepared to put some work into it or resell the motor to someone who fixes them. Ideally you want to take it for a test drive so you can make sure the motor runs well under load. A late 80s or early 90s 2-stroke is practically new in my book, it all depends on how it was maintained as others have said. Ask the sellers how long the motor has been sitting, if its been a couple months that's no big deal, especially if they winterized it before storing. If it's been years I'd be hesitant unless it's deeply discounted. You're on the right track with an aluminum boat in my opinion, all you need to worry about is the motor, transom, and floor if it's wood. Old fiberglass boats have wood stringers that can rot and are not easy to replace.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
47,296
no problem with old motors being reliable.

I have a 60 year old gale that will start on the 2nd pull (and it sat 6 years prior to starting it last time).

the key is maintenance and properly storing (draining fuel, etc.)
 

ButchGood

Cadet
Joined
Nov 28, 2018
Messages
11
Thank you for all the great replies. My mind is at ease now looking at older boats. I’ve looked at over a dozen. I have only seen one so far that I should have bought. It had its bumps and bruises but it was solid. Motor started right up and he let it run for about 20 minutes for me. It was sold while I was home thinking about it.
Ill keep looking. It’s nice to know I have a place to ast questions. Thanks
 

TyeeMan

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Feb 27, 2006
Messages
849
Yep, tons of knowledge and experience here. Remember, the worst question is the one you didn't ask. :)
 

bchaney

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 3, 2018
Messages
246
Be patient. Another boat will come around and you'll now be better equipped to make a quick decision on it. Good luck and keep us posted on what you find.
 

wahlejim

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 23, 2015
Messages
884
The only advice I would add is to avoid certain makes of motors. Chrysler and Force are non-starters for me (no pun intended, well maybe a little). It is easy to get parts for Mercury and Mariner motors. Johnson and Evinrudes are tanks. Asian countries have been putting out quality OB motors for years (Honda, Yamaha, Tohatsu). A motor that old, parts availability is key.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
47,296
and now days most sub 40hp motors are Tohatsu, regardless of which paint/sticker is on the cowling.
 

ButchGood

Cadet
Joined
Nov 28, 2018
Messages
11
OK guys, Still shopping for the right boat. I'm finding good deals, but I keep running into the same problem. Titles. They have the title for the boat, but not the engine. In Texas you Title motors.
I went to Texas department of wildlife to register my motorized kayak and asked them a question about buying a used boat.Because I'm new to the boat buying thing. I asked, If I found a boat with no motor, should I wait to register the boat once I found the motor I want and do it all at once? They said NO. Register it within 21 days or there will be late fees. So then I asked, I have to register the boat then the motor separate from the boat? They said no, you just have to Title the motor, Register and title the boat.
My question is. If one of these deals show up again, why cant I just register the the boat and go on about my business? All you need to have with you on the lake is a boat registration. The titles are at home in a safe. The only problem I can see is when it comes time for me to sell the boat. By that time, I might have a new motor with a title, or have done a title search and went through the months of bureaucracy to get it signed over. Either way I'm on the water fishing out of my new boat. Am I missing something where I absolutely need a title on the boat AND motor immediately? I mean I can buy a boat with no motor, get it registered and transfer title. A week later my buddy gives me a motor that's been laying around for years. Slap it on and your on the water. Right? Whats the difference?
 

TyeeMan

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Feb 27, 2006
Messages
849
Hmm, very interesting that you would title the motor. Maybe makes for a theft deterant?

So if you find a motor with no title, can the current owner obtain a duplicate title? I mean the person selling the motor must have had to title it at some point in time right?
Or maybe you and the current owner meet at the local DMV or whatever they call it down there and and see if you can transfer it that way? Just a thought.
 

ButchGood

Cadet
Joined
Nov 28, 2018
Messages
11
Some of these motors just get lost in the shuffle. They get bought, traded, given away. The Title could be 6 persons removed. Its very difficult here in Texas.
 

Maclin

Admiral
Joined
May 27, 2007
Messages
6,761
This is why boats for sale in Texas command an incrementally higher price with good, current transferable titling. Buying a boat from a titled state, especially one that does engines and hulls, is pretty normal titleing process when the paperwork is up to date.

ButchGood, seems like you have done the perfunctory research into the Texas requirements :) It is compared to a maze sometimes.

I have titled "down here" twice. Should have been 3, but I gave up on the one I moved down here with. The next one I bought out of state, was able to register it in the registration-only selling State even with no current address there. Then once I got the registration there were just a couple of steps (hoops?) with about 3 forms to fill out and obtain those pesky rubbings. I made one last call to Parks and Wildlife to verify, then showed up and paid the dues and had 2 titles about a month later. The latest boat was a Texas titled, all up to date, and was a snap.
 

bchaney

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 3, 2018
Messages
246
I don't see any issues with your plan as long as the price is right, I would think a motor without a title is worth less than one with a title so maybe use that as a negotiating point. If you get a bill of sale from the seller can you eventually get the motor title from TX?
 

glust

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jan 23, 2012
Messages
141
Don't fall in love with the first boat you see, there will be more. Don't relay on the seller telling you the motor ran. You wan't to hear it run in a garbage can full of water or better yet on the lake where you can put a load on the boat

The main frame members of the trailer should be rock solid. Ancillary things like bunks, rollers, and an occasional light can be easily be replaced or upgraded.

As for the outboard, if it has been well cared for, absolutely you can trust them, , in my opinion. Up here in Minnesota there are still PLENTY of 1950's and 60's out boards running around that still run like a million bucks. But again, you want to hear the motor run, make sure there's plenty of cooling water being expelled either from the so called "pee hole" or idle relief port. Take the engine hood off, make sure there is no heat discoloration on the block or head indicating that the motor was run out of water or with a bad water pump. If the engine block and head colors don't mach you can automatically assume the engine was apart for major repairs.


You've got to see it run. If the guy says, "it ran great, that is a history lesson. Went to look at a bike once the guy said, "runs great". It didn't have a carb on it. He said, "Well, it ran great the last time it ran". Also beware of guys that say, "It just needs a $20.00 part but I don't have time to fix it." If it only took $20.00 and was an easy fix, he would have fixed it already, spent the $20.00 and got his asking price. Good luck.
 

ButchGood

Cadet
Joined
Nov 28, 2018
Messages
11
Well gentlemen, I got my first boat. It’s a small flat bottom with a rebuilt 35 hp Evinrude. Only 10 hours on it. I think it’ll be perfect for my first boat. Light weight easy to handle. 15 ft. Long, 5’ 1” wide with a steering console. It’s got its dents and dings, but solid. Nothing loose or shaky. Trailer is in excellent shape. The man wanted $1800, but I only brought $1600 with me. That’s what it sold for. The only thing I’m not happy with is the fuel take. Everything is new in the entire fuel system including the tank, but it doesn’t fit in the area it is supposed to. It’s sitting in the floor of the boat taking up precious space. I would have to go from the 6 gallon tank to a 3 gallon tank. Do you guys think a 3 gallon would be ok with the 35 HP?
 
Top