clear coat on I/O

roffey

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Last year I painted my outdrive with black tremclad, lol. Before you beat me up I have learnt the hard way tremclad on the lower unit does not work and I am redoing it this winter, lesson learnt. I have mercury paint this time but I'm wondering if I should clear coat it after painting?
 

Scott Danforth

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depends on the paint.

rattle can, or are you following the repaint procedure using PPG paints?
 

harringtondav

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or are you following the repaint procedure using PPG paints?

Scott, will you point me to this procedure please? I'm freshwater, but get some sand rash on my skeg & bullet. I've tried Merc. aerosol, but it seems to wash off. I was thinking a catalyst mix may be more durable. Like PPG.
 

JimS123

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There are differing opinions among those of us that restore old outboards. One is to clear coat and the other definitely not. The ones that display their old iron in the living room clear coat. The ones that actually USE the motors don't. Old outboards were never clear coated at the factory.

Clear coat offers no added protection from the elements. Rattle can paint offers limited protection. If you want to duplicate the factory you need professional paint with hardener and maybe even baked on enamel.

My trailer boat repaints last a couple of years with rattle cans. Boats moored in the water probably will need a repaint every year if you want it to look good.

The KEY is what goes on the bare metal as the primer. Sure, acid etching primer is good stuff, but nothing can beat the zinc chromate (carcinogen) primer of yesteryear.
 

roffey

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I used etching primer. My paint is from Merc, not saying that is the best but has to hold up better than tremclad. What I was planning on doing was etching primer, then merc black paint. I will sand down to a smooth finish then paint a few coats and then clear followed by wet sanding, buffing and then wax. I have refinished furniture in the past and was thinking I would follow the same procedure...

I do have a body shop near by and now you have me thinking maybe I should take it to them?
 

roffey

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depends on the paint.

rattle can, or are you following the repaint procedure using PPG paints?

never heard of that, I will look on the net and see what I can come up with...BTW rattle can. Not apposed to purchasing a spray gun. New toys are always welcome, lol.
 

Scott Danforth

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never heard of that, I will look on the net and see what I can come up with...BTW rattle can. Not apposed to purchasing a spray gun. New toys are always welcome, lol.

see thread #4

merc paint is ppg tuxedo black
 

Lowlysubaruguy

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A good quality automotive enamel or eurothane works fine on outboards. Surface prep primer and proper applications is the real important thing I would use a standard one coat not base coat clear coat paint, Keep it thin but enough for good coverage.
 

roffey

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Lowlysubaruguy I have paint from Merc. I don't think it need clear coat and it is for outdrives/outboard motors. I do have a buddy in the auto body business who likely can do it for my but I think I should be able to handle it in my work shop.
 

BRICH1260

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I clear coat my drive each year. But honestly because I slip my boat all summer, it doesn't last long and has to be done again at the end of the year. If you trailer, you might get more of a benefit from it.
 

roffey

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I am lucky enough to have waterfront. I think I am going to set up a boat lift.
 
Last edited:

Old Ironmaker

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If I add up all the different paint I've tried over these 10 years I probably had enough to paint my truck. Mine is a Mariner grey. Underneath is Merc black. I've sanded to bare metal and it still peels. I just used to tilt the thing down so I didn't get so peed off looking at it. It doesn't bother me at all now, more things in life to use my energy on.
 

5150abf

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Repainted an 1980 Evinrude with the spray bomb paint then used 2 part automotive clear coat on it and it held up great.

It is a trailer boat so not in the water all the time but I doubt that would have hurt it.

With paint it is all in the prep, all lose paint removed and sanded then used a good etching primer.

You don't need to completely strip it, if the old paint is sticking well the new paint will stick to that
 

gm280

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I am on the PPG side of things myself. I have painted lots of things with the PPG base coat, clear coat system and while not sitting in water, they hold up way better then anything else I've tried. I actually used zinc chromatic on the bare metal, then epoxy or PPG 2K high build primer. Then after sanding, I shot a few coats of PPG black, I think the number is 9700. Everybody has that same paint black number. Then I shot a few coats of PPG clear and once cured, wet sand and buff. It looks like the paint flowed on the item and the gloss is incredible . And it IS impermeable to oils, gas, fuels, and most automotive type liquids as well. JMHO
 

roffey

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hmm, my boat sits in the water all summer. I think I am going to start using a boat lift..
 
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