Didn’t countersink when I installed Smart Tabs

vegascarnut

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Ok so I am feeling paranoid now. I installed Smart Tabs on my 23’ Ebbtide BR a couple weeks ago. I squirted the holes full of 5200 before putting the screws in. I don’t see any cracking, but I did not countersink the screw holes because the instructions didn’t mention it at all. Do you think I’m safe to leave it or should I unscrew them and countersink? Thanks!
 

vegascarnut

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What kind of screws were used to install?
How long ago was the 5200 used?

#14 pan head machine screws, 1”. The flange is flat, plastic, so screw head touches flange, flange touches boat. 5200 on there for 2 weeks...5200 in holes only, but some squeezed under flange too. Thanks
 

alldodge

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Shouldn't need counter sink for pan head screws, and since its been there for 2 weeks its not coming out easy. Most are in stalled using 4200 so if there is an issue, they can be removed. You should probably never have an issue, so should be good
 

vegascarnut

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Thanks for that! I hate drilling holes in boats!! On that note, I have to ask—the transom down low near the bottom is REALLY thin! I mean like less than 1/4”. I was shocked. Is that normal?

i hit foam at that depth
 

alldodge

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less than 1/4”. I was shocked. Is that normal?

i hit foam at that depth

I think you may have some issues. Tabs should be installed about 1/4 inch above the bottom of the hull, if not a bit more. Running into foam means you have no support for the tabs, and this could be a real issue

Have not seen a transom not come down to the bottom unless it is only done in the center.
 

vegascarnut

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I think you may have some issues. Tabs should be installed about 1/4 inch above the bottom of the hull, if not a bit more. Running into foam means you have no support for the tabs, and this could be a real issue

Have not seen a transom not come down to the bottom unless it is only done in the center.

Yeah, I guess I will have to have someone look at it. I installed it exactly as instructed, with the bracket flush with the bottom of the boat. That put the bottom row of holes about 1/4" off the bottom of the boat. I just remember thinking "MAN this seems thin." I probably mounted them too low.
 

vegascarnut

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Here's a capture from a West Marine install video. That's exactly what I did. There's not a lot of stress on that part of the tab because the piston/shock takes most of that up to the upper shock mount. Still concerning though.
 

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JASinIL2006

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I’ve got SmartTabs and I’d be concerned about not hiiting wood with the screws. I would probably pull the tabs and inject thickened polyester resin or epoxy into the holes, and then re-drill.
 

vegascarnut

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I’ve got SmartTabs and I’d be concerned about not hiiting wood with the screws. I would probably pull the tabs and inject thickened polyester resin or epoxy into the holes, and then re-drill.

I may do this. Drill and fill is a really good way to handle it. I did speak with a very knowledgeable and trusted local boat service pro, Gerry over at Gerry's Marine on Boulder Hwy. Many of the people I know use him here in Henderson/Vegas, and he is just awesome. He told me that it's not unusual for hulls to have 1/4" of shell, then high density foam or insulator in that area. He did say they are HUGE fans of the Ebbtide hulls, and not to be concerned because the glass is hand laid, and very strong. They have actually gone to the Ebbtide factory to watch the process. However, I may get bored enough to drill and fill. We'll see.
 

vegascarnut

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Shouldn't need counter sink for pan head screws, and since its been there for 2 weeks its not coming out easy. Most are in stalled using 4200 so if there is an issue, they can be removed. You should probably never have an issue, so should be good

I said countersink, because I always call it that, but what I meant was chamfer/debur. I was originally afraid that not doing that well would/could cause cracking. Now that's the least of my concerns, but speaking with Gerry over at Gerry's Marine made me feel a bit better about the situation.
 

JASinIL2006

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If failing to chamfer the holes was going to cause a crack, I'd think it would have happened when you first installed the tabs. However, if you're going to pull the tabs off to drill-n-fill, you could always chamfer the holes then.
 

Lowlysubaruguy

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If you do start over and are going to chamfer the holes be sure to use a depth stop on the drill and do a practice test with your drill bits on a piece of hard wood or something to make sure the bit your using will leave the flush fit your looking for. It doesnt take much to overdrill when chamfering if the bit bites to hard.
 

Grub54891

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Chamfering the holes helps the gelcoat from cracking, and also gives the sealer a small "valley" to aid in sealing.
 

tacx

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If you are going to chamfer, do not use a large twist drill bit. Your only looking for trouble. A standard twist bit can grab the material and quickly gouge out a huge hole

use a counter sink bit. You can get one at just about any good hardware or home depot type store, and they are cheap insurance against creating a huge hole. They are specifically made for what you are doing.
 
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