Mount LED lights in engine compartment

JASinIL2006

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I've become weary of dragging a trouble light into the back of my boat every time I need to work back there or check fluids, etc. I'm thinking of mounting some LED lights in various locations so I can see when I'm trying to work on things. I'd probably wire it into the house battery bus, and I think I would like switched fixtures (so some can be left off if desired).

Has anyone added this sort of light? Any tips or pointers to good sources?

Thanks!
 

MTboatguy

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I have them inside the propane compartment in my 5th wheel trailer and they work great, I have even forgot and let them on for weeks at a time and they don't run the battery down. In 5 years, I have never had one burn out and I have never had a batter go down, I see no down side to them at all and should work just fine in the engine compartment.

Now that said, my only concern would be heat which is not something I have dealt with in the compartments in my camp trailer.
 

mr 88

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The only problem is getting the light to shine where you want it to,which is usually in some nook or cranny where your installed LEDs wont be shining. Might be better off with a rechargeable LED trouble light that will hold a 4-6 hour charge. Or both,wouldn't worry about the heat unless your mounting them on the engine itself/
 

GA_Boater

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I started using one of those head band LED lights. I look and I see and I like.
 

GA_Boater

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And if you do use stick on lights, after the heat gets to the stickum, look for the lights in the bilge.
 

Scott Danforth

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4 lights mounted in the corners of the bilge. Use a limit switch on the hatch to turn it on when the hatch is open.
 

JASinIL2006

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4 lights mounted in the corners of the bilge. Use a limit switch on the hatch to turn it on when the hatch is open.

That’s sort of what I had in mind. I have a headlamp and sometimes it works, but if it’s the only light, everything tends to look rather two-dimensional.
 

Old Ironmaker

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That’s sort of what I had in mind. I have a headlamp and sometimes it works, but if it’s the only light, everything tends to look rather two-dimensional.

I am tired of smacking myself in the forehead to get the headband light to turn on and stay turned on.
 

sam am I

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These or similar idea might work for you........loads of stuff out there.

I had Scotty receptacles by default (lectric downriggers) and made dual use of them. Perhaps skip the Scotty and cover stuff and install them (or similar) as is after installing the standard 12V bulb twist lock socket (or similar).......... Point is, that LED config cast light very very well 360 degrees axially and perhaps 300 degrees radially.

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...er-receptacles


Scotty link bad now...........updated below

http://scotty.com/product/no-2125-12v-downrigger-plug-and-receptacle-from-marinco/
 
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JASinIL2006

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One more thought... since these will be located in the bilge, do I need anything special for use in the area around the motor (where the may be gas fumes)? I imagine the switch would be the most critical part to worry about a spark?
 

sam am I

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To be as safe as possible and limit potential risks, I'd say yes for both switch and light or anything else in fact that was in such a atmosphere that could cause BOOM'age if it just happen to have failed in such a way........Plus, it couldn't hurt even if you didn't have too per-se!!! Win-Win

http://blog.gosafe.com/intrinsically...n-proof-lights
 
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DonByars

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May 27, 2022
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I was installing a light fixture, but that required additional electricity consumption, so I soon replaced them with an LED strip https://www.amazon.com/car-lights-car-led-lights/dp/B09L86JRRM. It's created primarily for cars, but it turned out to be adhesive-based, so I glued it to the back of the boat and use it as a light source when needed. It illuminates pretty well if you use white light. I think this will be a more comfortable solution for you.
 
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