removing engine

wendellbee

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i have twin omc 460 inboards in a chris craft crowne 340 with hurth v-drives. the shaft packing is shot and in order to change it i need to remove the engines. there's no way you can get underneath to change the packing. is the transmission connected to thw bellhousing wiith ony the 6 bolts or is there something else im not seeing?
 

Grub54891

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Are you sure it's shot? It can be adjusted. I know some are in tight quarters, but I've never had to remove the motor. If you can get the coupler off it might give ya enough room. Been there done that.
 

Bondo

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is the transmission connected to thw bellhousing wiith ony the 6 bolts or is there something else im not seeing?

Ayuh,.... The bellhousin' bolts, 'n the splined shaft in the center is what holds it together, 'n transmits it's power,....
 

wendellbee

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The packing in the stuffin boat_engine_Resized.jpg g box is shot .. water comes in like someone is pouring a bucket on both shafts. the boat was out of the water for 3.5 years when i bought it. i could reach it if i had 4 foot arms and triple jointed. The the set up on this engine compartment doesn't have enough space for my grandson
 

Bondo

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Ayuh,.... Not that it matters in this thread, But,.....

Ya got a pair of motors that buyin' parts for is nearly impossible,....

Their exhaust manifolds are made of unobtainium,....
 

Scott Danforth

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have you tried tightening the packing gland. 99% of the time, they just need a 1/4 turn

the good news is that you have heat exchangers, cant tell if its a full-system of half-system. so your unavailable manifolds may have a chance on living if its a full system
 

wendellbee

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- yeah i know all about that unobtanium metal :) ughh. unfortunately the manifolds are raw water cooled. they are okay for now. i'm pulling the engines because no one can reach the stuffing box. we have tried, even holding a friends legs while he tried to snake himself under there. I'll be putting on dripless. i had them on a 30 ft searay weekender and they worked flawlessly. I'm going to go the BBF to BBC adapter plates route. . that seems to be the only option seeing that the aluminum ones from CP performace and others cost cost more than I paid for the boat and trailer combined. bte has anyone had any experience with the adapter plates?
 

alldodge

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No luck with adapter plates.

Do you have enough room when the motors are reinstalled to measure flange alignment? Should also recheck after it has sat in the water for 48 hours
 

Ned L

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Ouch!!!! I definitely feel your pain.
(only for comments sake I will also say that the packing may be ok. My boat was out of the water for 17 years and one stuffing box needed about a 1/4 turn)

given your situation I would do what you are doing too.
 

wendellbee

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an update- I removed the exhaust manifolds and was able to squeeze in and press the shaft out. took all morning but beats removing the motor. on inspection, the shaft log hose was deteriorated to the point it was leaking and the the stuffing box had gaps in it where the water could pour thru. no amount of tightening would've helped. hopefully the rinstops tmrw ndi can finish the other side. thanks for the suggestions
 

Comogene

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Sorry to be late to the party and hope the OP is still looking. Had a pair of BBFs that were marinized by Chrysler when they stopped making the 440s. Ran into the exhaust manifold issue since no one made after market ones except for the racing crowd. I did use the aluminum adapters for BBC manifolds and had a few issues: the spark plugs are located higher in the Ford block and as a result, burned the plug wires on the spacer and bottom of Chevy manifold. You'll need to insert heat protector sleeves on the wires - worked fine. Also be very careful of the torquing for the manifold bolts into the aluminum adapter. I over tightened and stripped threads. Had to use a couple of Heli-coils. Lastly, the adapters burned the manifold to adapter gasket in short order, so buy some high heat BBC gaskets (Percy's XXX?).

Gene
 

wendellbee

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thanks Comogene. i'm almost at the point where i can concentrate on the adapters and will take your advice about protecting the wires. .
due to weather delays and a mechanic who had health issues, im now at the point where I can connect the trans flange to the prop shaft. problem is m mechanic has once again disappeared, along with it taking my key stocks and set screws for the shaft connection at the transmission. My question is: what type of key stock and set screws should I install? stainless steel, Stainless with zinc coating, etc? or does it not matter? also when inserting the key do i place the key in the shaft 1st and then push the flange over it or fasten the flange to the trans, push the shaft into the flange, inert set screws and then tap in the key? I will be doing this while contorted so trying t find out which process would be the easiest,or fastest way.

thanks
 

ahicks

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Normally the flange is placed on the shaft and secured. Then the flange is pulled up to to the mating flange on the trans. and alignment is checked with a feeler gauge. Misalignment here, however slight, can throw a vibration into the boat like you can't believe. Extra time spent making sure there is no misalignment is time well spent.
 

alldodge

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Key stock is normally brass
Flange goes on shaft then key is laid into the shaft groove, and flange is brought up over key and faces are aligned. Bolts are used to keep the faces centered, not used to bring them close to each other. Only after alignment is achieved, then they are tightened.

Are the bolts screwed into the flange or is it a nut/bolt?
 

wendellbee

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Thanks guys. i was going to get stainless steel keys, but i'll get the brass keys. This is a nut/bolt combination. It is a V-drive, so I cannot connect the flange on the shaft first since the shaft goes thru the v-drive and flange is connected on the opposite side. I will check tmrw if i have enough space to bring the shaft all the way thru far enough that I can slide the flange over the shaft and install the key into the keyway on the shaft and pull flange back over the key. the hard part is most of this will be done with one hand .i attached a pic of it.
 

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alldodge

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OK, just did one of those on my buddies 37 footer a couple years ago. Side thru, install key then install the flange.

You want brass, so if the prop hits something, the key will shear off instead of snapping the prop shaft, transmission or crankshaft
 

wendellbee

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Thanks Alldodge.
ordering my brass keys now and hopefully i will be finished this weekend
 
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