Boat buffing and waxing what do you use???

[adm1476]

I am getting ready to buff and wax my boat. I have a Makita professional buffer. My question is what is the best compound and wax to use? Also what speed do I buff at and speed for waxing?

 

[wrvond]

I have a Porter Cable 7424xp DA polisher that I use along with Marine 31 products.
If your oxidation is particularly heavy, then the Makita direct drive rotary polisher with a wool pad and cutting compound can be used at low speed. Because it is easy to burn through with the direct drive tools, I prefer the dual action polisher for normal cleaning/polishing/waxing.

 

[Scott Danforth]

for polishing my boat, I cut at about 1200-1300 RPM. for final polish, maybe 1500-1800 RPM. I have a variety of bonnets that I use and change with every grit change of compound.

I have used 3M products and Meguiars products

 

[dingbat]

I use a Porter Cable, 7", 10 map Heavy duty digital variable speed polisher.

Up until last year I was religious about using Collinite 920 fiber glass cleaner with two coats of Collinite 885 Fleetwax Paste wax a week apart.

This year at the recommendation of a friend, I tried Smoove bubble gum cleaner followed up with a coat of Smoove White Cloud Hi gloss Polymer. The Smoove polymer is much easier to apply and remove than the Collinite paste wax, but the jury is still out on longevity of the polymer.

Still use Woody Wax on the non-skid

 

[garbageguy]

+1 on the Collonite wax - would be interested on what the jury comes up with on Smoove polymer

 

[frantically relaxing]

Many others may not agree with this, but here goes

You should never wax gelcoat. Wax and the silicone that's in it reacts in negative ways with UV rays, doesn't allow the gelcoat to breathe, all of which speeds up oxidation.

One product that has neither wax nor silcone is NuFinish. Mildly abrasive so it's great for removing light scratches and oxidation.so And it's cheap.

Another product that has neither is Dri Wash n Guard. Not so cheap but a $40 quart last's a long time, and on a clean boat it's just a wipe-on-wipe-off affair. it's good stuff--next time you're at the SS and K-boat races, ask the drivers what they use...

If you have a little heavier oxidation, try Bar Keepers Friend LIQUID cleanser. It works and won't hurt your boat. I made a video of me using it on the Chap 262...

If you insist on wax, NEVER wax below the waterline. That nice smooth, super-slick finish increases the surface tension between the water and the boat. Which means more drag.

 

[R055]

Oh man, people waxing and buffing their boats and I'm sitting here brushing the snow off my boat every time an inch of snow collects.

 

[adm1476]

Thanks for all the good info. Keep it coming.

 

[adm1476]

Also this boat came from Florida and has probably not been buffed or waxed in over5 years.

 

[Old Ironmaker]

I find Maguire's to be the best deoxidizer. Then Nu Finish which is a car polish not a wax and won't break the bank. Works great on glass or aluminum. I will wax once a year with Mothers paste wax or liquid on the vehicles or boat. My wife's 2007 Nissan has over 300,000 KMS on original paint and looks new, Canadian weather too. I can do a 4 boats with Maguire's deoxidizer. A little dab will do 4 ftsq. Small sections at a time and overlap just like you do when painting. I use a cheap Simonize polisher to apply, hand remove then use a soft pad to polish with the machine. Same procedure to polish with Nu Finish or wax. Remove polish, wax or Nu Finish with a soft Cotton towel. Do not leave Maguire's on for more than a few minutes before removing by hand. If you leave it for more than a few minutes it will not come off quietly. Nu Finish can stay on much longer.

I have restored finishes that guys thought they needed to repaint the car or boat. Nu Finish is a cleaner/polisher and will not leave white wax residue in scratches that you get with waxes. If I'm doing a super detail I will put a coat of Nu Finish on after paste waxing with Mothers. I have been using Nu Finish for about 40 years or when ever it came out. You will see guys using Nu Finish at Barrett-Jacksons.

I agree waxing below the water line is both a waste of money and elbow grease. It is gone after a few miles.

 

[Blind Date]

Because it is easy to burn through with the direct drive tools, I prefer the dual action polisher for normal cleaning/polishing/waxing.

Actually it's pretty much impossible to burn through the gel coat with a rotary buffer even using an aggressive compound like 3M's Super Duty Rubbing Compound. So to the OP, don't worry about damaging the gelcote. It's a LOT tougher than painted surfaces. I have a DA polisher but that's more for maintaining a good finish versus bringing one back that's been neglected for far too long. You can try a DA and if that gives you the results your looking for perfect! No sense going any more aggressive than you have to.

Can't go wrong w/3M products. Did wonders on my Glastron-Carlson.

When I got it the deck was dull and rubbing your hand over it felt like sand paper. The finish on the whole boat above the rub rail was so bad I almost didn't buy it.



After some wet sanding in places, compound buffing, polish and wax.

 

[jmb23802]

Last year I used Collinite 920 Fiberglass Boat Cleaner and a HF DA/Sander to remove light gelcoat stains and some shallow scratches. Followed that with Collinite 925 Liquid Fiberglass Boat Wax and was pleased with the results. Probably do the same again this year.

 

[R055]

I use 3m or meguirs polish marine polish and then marine west paste wax. Works great, I do it once a year in April.

 

[JoLin]

I went to the 'dark side' 3 years ago and Poli-Glo'd the hull from the gunwales down. It worked so well that I did the topsides last year and intend to continue with it. It isn't for everyone, though. Surface prep and first application are time consuming and have to be done right, though it doesn't take much physical effort. Once it's on, maintaining it is easy, but it has to be maintained. No ifs, ands or buts.

My .02

 

[adm1476]

Thanks for the advise. So wool pad for compound. Should I use a foam pad for polish or another wool pad?

 

[dingbat]

I went to the 'dark side' 3 years ago and Poli-Glo'd the hull from the gunwales down.

A friend jumped on that bandwagon a couple of years ago.

A couple of years of buildup and it was time to start over. He, or should I say his detailer, didn't have good things to say about the removal / stripping process.

He had wax put back on the boat.

 

[JoLin]

A friend jumped on that bandwagon a couple of years ago.

A couple of years of buildup and it was time to start over. He, or should I say his detailer, didn't have good things to say about the removal / stripping process.

He had wax put back on the boat.

Should it become necessary, the stripping process isn't a big deal. The same 'poli-prep' liquid that you use to prepare the surface, is what you use to take it off. I've used it to retouch a few areas and the poli-glo comes off instantly.

I've heard all the dire warnings from a thousand 'informed' sources. I'm firmly convinced that those who've experienced issues didn't prep correctly, apply it correctly or maintain it correctly.

My .02