Tilt and Trim seal and rod replacement?

[mcbassin]

I'm wondering if it is normal for the trim rods to become mushroomed after 10 plus years of service? I was just going to replace the seals on the port side but it looks like the end of it is kinda hammered and may screw up the new seals if I try to install them. It has worn so much that when the trim is bottomed out it is hitting the pistion cap. Also, is there anything special about removing the cap that holds it together? It looks like I have to buy the whole piston assy to replace the rod ($128 ea. side OUCH!) Help!
Pictures:

 

[Marion Moore]

Re: Tilt and Trim seal and rod replacement?

Parts for these units are rediculus expensive. I was going to repair one I had but found it easier to just swap out with one of my spares from my two parts engines. Yours looks like the one from my DT115/140.

As far as mushroomed, I've never seen that. Have you been using heavy grease on the ends of the piston rods? Also, what does the pad on the engine look like?

 

[robert graham]

Re: Tilt and Trim seal and rod replacement?

I would expect those rods to be hardened/heat treated to prevent mushrooming, but maybe those missed the heat treating process. Maybe take a grinder and just remove around the edges of that mushroomed area so it doesn't interfere with your seals. Then maybe weld or some way of attaching a hardened tip or a stainless steel ball to the rod end to prevent further mushrooming? I expect it could be an expensive hassle to replace that rod. Good Luck!

 

[diveguana]

Re: Tilt and Trim seal and rod replacement?

Just take a file and take off the mushroomed section and then use some fine sandpaper to get it smooth so it wil not damage the seal when you install it


Be sure to release the pressure in the system before you try to unscrew the cap . It will not unscrew if there is pressure in the unit so turn the manual release screw and unscrew the fill cap

Troy

 

[mcbassin]

Hey guys, I'm in the process of changing the seals on the Tilt cylinder. I made a spanner wrench to remove the cylinder cap.
I got the piston assembly out no problem. I cannot figure out how to remove the #13 Piston, Free?
Any help?

 

[mcbassin]

 

[BowPro]

I cut a coat hanger, two strips, and bent one end of each strip into an "L" shape (the L part short enough to fit into center hole of part #13). I bent the other ends in a "U" shape for to hook my fingers under for leverage. Place both "L's" down into the into the hole of part 13, opposite sides of each other. With your fingers in the "U's" shimmy up part 13. If you only used one L, it wants to get cockeyed and not slide upward. I made the L's just long enough to go into part 13 and catch the edges of the part only, not extended over to the cylinder wall. I didn't want to scratch the cylinder wall with the tip of the hanger. You get the drift.