ECM for 2001 Z150TXRZ 2001 150 hp HPDI

pmat

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Can anyone tell me why there are so many different part numbers listed for the ECM. I see 5 different listings for my 2001 Z150TXRZ. I am hoping to purchase a used unit and am wondering how I can tell if it will work. Will an ECM from a 2002 200hp HPDI work?
 

zzzzz

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Re: ECM for 2001 Z150TXRZ 2001 150 hp HPDI

it appears to be broken down by serial number...? ya' got one ? :cool:
 

pmat

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Re: ECM for 2001 Z150TXRZ 2001 150 hp HPDI

Tag on Engine:

Z150TXRZ
6G4 X 852553

Is the serial number 852553?
 

rodbolt

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Re: ECM for 2001 Z150TXRZ 2001 150 hp HPDI

also look at the ign coil primary leads blaack is one part number and gray is another and for a few years the upgrade kit was done on a case by case basis.
 

zzzzz

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Re: ECM for 2001 Z150TXRZ 2001 150 hp HPDI

these are the only models that share your ECU:
LZ150TXRY 2000
LZ150TXRZ 2001
LZ200TXRY 2000
LZ200TXRZ 2001
Z150TLRY 2000
Z150TLRZ 2001
Z150TXRY 2000
Z150TXRZ 2001
Z175TXRZ 2001
Z200TLRY 2000
Z200TLRZ 2001
Z200TXRY 2000
Z200TXRZ 2001 :cool:....part number is 68F-8591A-01
 
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pmat

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Re: ECM for 2001 Z150TXRZ 2001 150 hp HPDI

My ignition coils have the grey plugs, I also have the 2 prong spark plugs.

My local dealer is telling me that the part number that I need is 68J-8591A-10-00.

I appreciate all of the input.

I am getting no spark.

It's such a huge cost that I need to be sure that it is needed. I tested the pulsar coil output using a peak voltage adapter. Peak voltage was 5.75 which is within specification on all six outputs.

Next I checked the peak voltage to the ignition coils cranking. Specs call for minimun 140 peak volts. (cranking 2 loaded) no spec is given for cranking 1 unloaded .

Can someone explain the terms loaded and unloaded as they apply here?

I simply cranked the engine over with a makeshift test harness connecting the wire harness to the coil that I was testing.

I am getting a reading of 8.75 peak volts. This is what led me to think that the ECM is bad.
 

rodbolt

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Re: ECM for 2001 Z150TXRZ 2001 150 hp HPDI

this system uses a 12 Volt power supply to the ignition coils and is called a TCI system.
the ecu breaks the current path with transistors instead of points to collapse the ign coil primary magnetic field inducing a very high voltage,typically 10 to 15 KV with the gray coil connectors, into the secondary circuits.
if the EPA and under cowl spark plug information calls for an EKS style plug your ECU has been upgraded if the call out is for the EKU plugs yours is just inside the seriel number break.
gray coil connectors require the EKU plugs and correct coils and black connectors require the EKS and correct coils.
with the key on test for 12V at each coil connector or use the spark diagnostics feature on the laptop diagnostic program.
unloaded refers to the coils not being connected and loaded is with all components connected and working.
 

pmat

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Re: ECM for 2001 Z150TXRZ 2001 150 hp HPDI

I cannot locate any epa or under cowl spark plug info. Is there supposed to be a tag somewhere? I have the grey connectors and the EKU (dual prong) spark plugs.

Just to be clear, the male connector on the coils is grey, while the female connector end on the wire harness is black.

With the key on only and not cranking, I get just .23 volts at the coil connectors.
 

rodbolt

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Re: ECM for 2001 Z150TXRZ 2001 150 hp HPDI

you have a failure on the harness or ign relay. any red wire with the yellow tracer will have 12V at key on power to engine ground.
its the way the system is designed.
 

pmat

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Re: ECM for 2001 Z150TXRZ 2001 150 hp HPDI

Thank You! I should have looked more closely at the wiring diagram.

I checked to see that there is 12 volts to the relay, then I tried swapping the relays, and still virtually no current to the coils. Next, I took apart the fuse assembly and checked for continuity between the relay output side and the pins on the back. I only have continuity to pins 19 20 21 and 24 all R/W on the bottom row. No continuity to any R/Y pins which leads me to believe that intenal corrosion may have severed the connection to the top row of pins. I am going to replace the fuse assembly.

From previous posts, some may know that this is a "project" boat that I have been tinkering on in my spare time off and on for several months. It has been swamped twice. (First time they left the plug out when it was launched for the season, the next year a loose damaged grounding block caused leakage that was not noticed ) The first time, insurance paid around $8,000 for new engine electronic components , the second time a guy that worked at the Yamaha dealership bought it and had a Yamaha tech friend work on it. After spending around $800 they had a falling out. I bought the boat this spring. I have no illusions, and am working on it for fun and education. When and if I get it running I will post all of the gory details. It's a nice 22' center console Aquasport.

I have found the information on this forum to be extremely helpful!
 

pmat

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Re: ECM for 2001 Z150TXRZ 2001 150 hp HPDI

whops, shouldn't do these things at 5:00 am. I got my relays confused. I do have internal connectivity from the system relay output to all of the R/Y pins on the back of the fuse block assembly.

I think it may just be the relay connectors inside the fuse block assembly (some corrosion and grean color) or the relay(s) themsevles. Going to clean up all of the internal fuse assembly connections and go from there. I tested continuity on a couple of the R/Y coil wires back to the fuse assembly plug, ok so far.

Thanks
 

pmat

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Re: ECM for 2001 Z150TXRZ 2001 150 hp HPDI

Has to be the relay. I pulled out the relay and did a quick test with a jumper wire across the relay plugs and get 12 volts at the coils. Thanks again...
 

pmat

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Re: ECM for 2001 Z150TXRZ 2001 150 hp HPDI

Turns out that it was not the relay and i don't need a new ECM. Starting with Rodbolt's advice that I needed to see 12 volts on all of the red/yellow coil leads, and reading countless bits of wisdom that he has posted on this site, I connected my DVM to one of the red/yellow leads the other side to ground. I was not getting 12 volts with key on. I jumped across the system relay and did have 12 volts which is what led me to think I needed a new relay. Next I opened up the fuse/relay block and found some corrosion on the interior connectors that the relays plug into. After the relay plugs were cleaned I did have 12+ volts at the red/yellow leads with key on. But it still would not run, though for the first time in 3 years the engine did sputter a few times (some hope). Next I left the DVM connected to the red/yellow coil lead and engaged the starter motor, while cranking the voltage dropped from 12 to 9.5 volts at the coil leads. Next step was to bypass the long battery cables to the center console and hook up the battery with a pair of short leads. Cranked the starter and the red/yellow leads were up to 11.2 volts. Next I cleaned the female connector that brings power to the fuse block, charged the battery overnight and I started the engine! It RUNS! How well and how long.... we'll see, but it has been a fun and educational project for me.
 
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