2000 DT25C Rebuilding Question

[LukeFishWalker]

I just picked up a 2000 DT25C that appears to be in good shape but well used.
Here in the Lake Charles, Louisiana area there are 2 primary non-dealer outboard mechanic shops.
One of them prefers to not repair or rebuild these models and the other is a little on the pricey side.
My question is:
Is there a privately owned outboard repair shop willing to do machine work (Disassemble, Bore & Reassemble)
on these models that are reasonably priced? Even if I have to take the Powerhead off and crate & mail.
I do see that tenkillermarine offers a take apart/mail/rebuild/mail service, but I don't know how well
they rank among the professionals here at iboats.
I also see that Wiseco doesn't offer forged pistons for this model.
Does anyone have any idea why they do not?
And, is there an alternative to Wiseco in the aftermarket compared to OEM?

Thank You For Your Time & Patience,
Lukus

 

[Doh]

Drive it. Why the worry?

 

[tommarvin]

Lukus, If your boating budget can buy a fourstroke EFI, do not rebuild a two stroke.
Like Doh above, Quote" Drive it,why the worry" you dont rebuild till the motor blows up!
If your hell bent to rebuild this motor, remove the power head tear it apart, put each phase of bolts in a zip lock baggy.
Take it to a motor cycle machine shop search for a good high production shop.
Are you sure you cant find a used four stroke EFI cheap your better off to rebuild the four stroke efi.

 

[GA_Boater]

Lukus, If your boating budget can buy a fourstroke EFI, do not rebuild a two stroke.
Like Doh above, Quote" Drive it,why the worry" you dont rebuild till the motor blows up!
If your hell bent to rebuild this motor, remove the power head tear it apart, put each phase of bolts in a zip lock baggy.
Take it to a motor cycle machine shop search for a good high production shop.
Are you sure you cant find a used four stroke EFI cheap your better off to rebuild the four stroke efi.

Why do you insist on tell people looking for help to buy a 4 stroke. This is never ending in your replies. If you can't offer advice, please don't reply.

Sorry, Lukas. The Internet has too many experts.

 

[Doh]

I think the 4 stroke was just as an Option. A more cost effective option than rebuilding a 2 stroke.

I just went through the same thought possess. 1997 130 Yamaha, (2000 hrs) Still ran good. The boat it was on was aging, (a hard life on our lake) Do I rebuild the Boat/motor/or drive it?

So it was a New Package, better suited to my needs (now). My son is still running the 130 Yamaha, and will until it quits.

My 30 hp Yamaha Camp Boat, (unknown hours) still runs fine. If it quit, I would look for a replacement motor, I am not worried about Rebuilding it for the sake of Having a New Sheet 0 hour "on some parts"

 

[LukeFishWalker]

I certainly didn't mean to cause any problems by simply asking a question about an outboard engine
I am not against operating or owning a 4 stroke outboard.
However, it's been my experience that in the shallow marsh conditions that a 4 stroke
just doesn't have the same punch that the 2 stroke does when you are trying to get
up on step in 8 inches of water with12 inches of grass and a foot of mud.
I can get up on step in less than 50 feet by dumping the foot 2 times and be gone before
the guy with his 4 stroke next to me even gets his boat moving and NEVER gets up until
he hits a foot of water. And by that time his alarm is going off because his engine is already warm.

I do a lot of fishing in The Burns, it's a private marsh owned by the Miami Corporation.
Access is granted by paid permit only ($75.00 This Year) and is limited to 25hp and 33.1 cid.
We launch into the Intracostal Canal and it's a 25 minute boat ride and I usually run my
1992 Tohatsu 25 in this marsh, but my plan is to increase my speed by
using the Suzuki DT25C and simply wanted to get the most out of this engine and if that
meant rebuilding this outboard before next spring I just wanted options.

I imagine I will be speaking to the local guy when I go into town.

Edit: Also bear in mind that the short block or long block of this model is no longer available,
So, rebuilding is the only option. If my only option is to tear down, remove the ridge, hone
and install new rings - That's what I will do.

Thank You For Your Time & Patience,
Lukus

 

[99yam40]

what makes you think that 25HP DT would be any better.stronger than the 25hp you are running now?
why not find a 30 HP motor instead?

 

[racerone]

Companies will generally " supply " when there is a " demand " for a product.----If Wiseco does not see a demand for smaller motor pistons then they are not listed.-------Remember that few shops now rebuild smaller motors.------Heck many shops now can not / will not rebuild the bigger motors.-----Lots of folks with cash that buy new motors.

 

[LukeFishWalker]

Ok, I've decided to go ahead and run it for a while until I save enough to at the very least re-ring it myself.
I have 2 decisions that I would appreciate input on.
To hone the cylinders, do I get the ball type hone or the abrasive "Toilet Brush" type hone that Wiseco makes?
Yes, I do understand to purchase a hone just barely above the bore size.
If when I tear it down and find wear on the pistons and or excessive wear in the cylinder,
should I trust oversized unmatched pistons from Suzuki after it's bored? The fact these 2 strokes operate at
rpms in the mid 5K isn't it recommended to have matched weight pistons, wrist pins, rings and clips?

Thank You For Your Time & Patience,
Lukus

 

[raczekp1]

just order 2 x piston set with size +25.
pull off the powerhead and split the crancase.
go to machine shop with cylinder and 1 piston to do rebore. clearnce should be 0.04 mm to one side
its good to chanege bearings during rebuilt

 

[99yam40]

Have the marine machine shop bore and do all the honing for you if it needs to be bored.
and I agree give them the pistons that will be going into it so they can do it correctly

just reread the posts and saw the limit to 25 hp
But do not understand the dumping of the foot 2 times
what does that mean?

 

[LukeFishWalker]

99yam40,
Here in Louisiana we have lots of shallow marsh that offer a wide range of great fishing.
We often fish in areas that might have 12 inches or less of water above thick vegetation.
When I say "Dump The Foot" I am describing the method used to plane or get up on step
in these condition by leaving the outboard unlatched and when the foot gets the vegetation
in front, we simply lift the outboard to " Dump " the obstruction from the skeg.
This is done while the boat is in motion in order to lose momentum and stay up on step.
That's why the majority of the flat bottom boats around here utilize the tiller instead of console.
It's almost an art form, we have to time the throttle down, lift, drop and punch it.
I've seen times during lower than normal water conditions having to do this multiple times
to get across a shallow pond to " Get To Where The Fish Are "

Ok, back to the topic at hand.
I do admit that if boring is required after tear down that it is to be done by a marine machine shop.
I have been a diesel mechanic for over 25 years and am now retired. So, I do completely agree
with the previous people's replies. (And I thank them for that)
However, my query remains....If I tear it down and determine (Micrometer) that is really only
needs a fresh set of rings to bring the compression back to 125psi or better, what hone is best?

PS:
The DT25C I have is not the 2000 model, it's the 1990 model.
I currently run a 1992 Tohatsu 25 that runs really well with 128psi on both cylinders.
The DT25C is a highly sought after 3 cylinder 25hp around here because it's well known as one
of the best 25hp outboards for the marsh. My cousin & I each have the exact same boat but he
has the DT25C and he runs circles around me. He often gets the jump on me out the hole and
dumps 1 or 2 times while I have to dump 5 or 6 times to get out the thick vegetation.
We hardly ever get in the same boat because it would be near impossible to get up on step.

Thank You For Your Time And Patience,
Lukus

 

[99yam40]

Thanks for the explanation.

I would ask a machine shop that normally reworks these motors what they will do.
they may use some chemicals to remover any piston aluminum that is attached to the cylinder bores and then hone them if they look and measure good enough after.