Volvo aq131 starting problems

[Chris_MI]

I just bought a 1988 Baretta 185 SuperSport with a Volvo aq131 mated to a Volvo 275 Aquadrive. The motor starts a little hard when cold, then runs real strong and smooth. I have a 15" diameter SS prop with 19 pitch and it gets up to 4500+ rpm and 38mph with two of us on board. However, when I quickly throttle up for a hole-shot there is a hiccup, which often results in a stalled engine. Then I have a TERRIBLE time getting it started. We have to alternate between long waits (trying to let excess gas evaporate if it's flooded), and spraying starting fluid into the carb to get it running again. It turns over great. Often I can't get it to fire even when using starting fluid, which makes me think it's flooded. Maybe there is a vapor lock in the fuel line, but I don't think so because once I get it started it keeps running great. I am willing to do about anything to get this fixed. It seems to be something with the carb. Does anyone have any ideas?<br />Thanks,<br />Chris

 

[Don S]

Re: Volvo aq131 starting problems

The Volvo 4 cylinder engines (known as rubber band engine because of the timing belt) does not have an automatic choke, or even a mechanical choke.<br />They take some throttle operation (goosing???)in neutral to keep them running when cold, and taking off before your temp gauge is up to 180° will cause problem. You might be able to baby the throttle and keep it running, but it's a Loooooooong way from EFI or even a carbed engine with a choke.<br />Sorry, but that is how they are.<br />They also need to be kept well tuned to run right. New plugs, points, condenser, cap and rotor each year keeps it running it's best.<br />They are strong, solid engines, just hard to keep running and starting when cold.

 

[Chris_MI]

Re: Volvo aq131 starting problems

Thanks for the reply Don. I am mostly worried about the extreme trouble in re-starting my motor after it's warmed up and it gets shut down for any reason. The guy I bought the boat from was a Buick mechanic. He said he always started the engine, hot or cold, without touching the throttle, or just edging it up. He said he never had the troubles I'm having re-starting the motor, however he did keep a can of starting fluid in the boat :^).<br />Do you have any suggestions on a starting procedure--like where to put the throttle--what to do if it's flooded, etc. Also, any suggestions on troubleshooting the carb and stuff? I never know if this boat is going to get me home, and I hate to take it to the shop and just throw money at it without any knowledge of my own.<br />Thanks,<br />Chris

 

[rbezdon]

Re: Volvo aq131 starting problems

If it is flooded start cranking the engine with the throttle wide open and back off quickly once the engine catches. Don't let the rpms get too high once it catched but the best way to clear flooding is to get as mush air into the engine to evaporate the flooding gas as possible. Be caurful not to "pump" the engine to wide open throttle, just push the lever down ONCE to get there. In fact, if you are sitting waiting for the flooding to evaporate I have found sitting with the engine (while off) in the WOT position sometimes speeds the clearing of the flooding condition as well. Just remember, every time you move the throttle from the slow position to the WOT position, the accelerator pump gives a shot of fuel into the engine whether it is running or not, so pumping the throttle will compound a flooding condition. Again, this is for recovering from a flooding condition. If the condition is that the fuel in the bowl is evaporating, then the solution is exactly the opposite. Pump the throttle a couple of times during crank to get the accelerator pump to dump a little raw fuel into the engine to get it started. This condition is mush more common for cold starting though.

 

[gt_jax]

Re: Volvo aq131 starting problems

I used to have the same issue with my AQ131D when starting and after a run. After buying a few manuals and reading everything on this site I narrowed it down to the electrical system.<br /><br />I replaced plugs, points (remember to gap them at .40), distributor cap, rotor, condenser (there is a screw in the back of distributor that holds it in), plug wires, and a new coil while I was at it. Was about $200 in parts from http://www.marinepartsexpress.com. <br /><br />I was amazed when the boat just fired right up and ran perfect. You'll have to check timing at 6 degrees becuase the above changes will make a huge difference in the responce between the firing of the coil to the sparkplug.