Penta Volvo 4.3L.. maybe big problem

Pietri177

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Sep 18, 2020
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Engine stopped running. Seemed flooded. I was able to start after cleaning fire arrester. Now won’t start and sound like a piece of the starter broke off when I try to turn over. Seems like engine is locking up. The belts will move but not cycle.
 

Pietri177

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Sep 18, 2020
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I have a 2002 Glastron 4.3L GL SX drive.
boat was running fine until I stopped to fish. I thought I simply had flooded engine. Prop turns. Oil is clean. I just cleaned the fire arrester. It ran fine while it was off.
I was trying to start and now their a metallic sound and the stater sounds like it’s locking up. But the sound is more like something big clanking around. Like the starter spur came off. It was an after market starter.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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pull your plugs to check if your hydrolocked

pull the starter and inspect it / test it
 

Pietri177

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Sep 18, 2020
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I’ll check the spark plugs.

The starter was a little lose. There were some metal shavings and wear to the fly wheel and spur. The starter is good.
 

Pietri177

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Sep 18, 2020
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I did that. About a half cup of water came out.
oh boy. Now what?

Put it back together. Hope I didn’t cause any major issues requiring a rebuild?
 

Pietri177

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Sep 18, 2020
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The starter took a pretty good Beating on the spur gear. Any chance the start has a safety mechanism to wear or lock up first?
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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no, there is no safety mechanism.

you hydro-locked. get teh motor started on the muffs and get the engine up to temperature.

when you shut down, did the engine diesel a bit? if so, that last little gasp and rattle is the engine spinning backwards and sucking in water from the exhaust. it usually means your timing is off and your running a tad bit rich
 

Pietri177

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Thank you for your help.

I have the starter back on. I put the muffs on. The awful sound is gone. The starter sound week. Kicks off shortly after trying to start. Engine still will not turn over. Maybe I’ll end up replacing the starter. Seems like the fuel pump isn’t kicking on. It’s a carburetor but I thought I used to hear the fuel pump. I may try some sea foam or some other starting fluid to get it started. I did hear the sputter. That’s not good. I think I heard it one other time when we were out with the kiddos. It’s so odd because the engine was sounding very good before this.
 

Pietri177

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Sep 18, 2020
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I think I’m going to purchase another starter. Not sure if I need to but the starter will only engage for about 2 seconds the sounds like it spins free. Maybe just reinstall this one. Seems to not be engaging with the fly wheel properly. Also. I can’t hear the fuel pump kick on when I turn the key. I thought I used to hear it just before I kicked on the blower. May need to adjust the timing to get it to turn over. When the spark plugs were out the starter would kick the engine over and move the cylinder. A Little more water came out when I did that. I bought seafoam fuel treatment. I’m also going to get the carb spray. Oddly their is no water in the oil. The dip stick is clean.
 

Pietri177

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I’m still concerned. The repair shop can’t get that boat in until Dec. I don’t want to leave it I started with moisture in the cylinders. Any more tips?
 

stang32

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put new starter in , make sure that bolts are nice and tight. pull the plugs and turn the motor over for a good # of times.
if all sounds well, reinstall the plugs.
when you turn the key to crank, the fuel pump should run. if you dont have fuel to the carb the fuel pump has issues.
remove the flame arrestor and open the choke butterfly, have someone pump the throttle while you look into the carb to see if your getting fuel into the engine.
if your getting fuel, try to start it.
do not put your face over the carb while cranking/starting.

if the engine sounds normal, like it did prio to the issues, then look into the ignition system.

if you want to leave it till the shop gets to it in the winter, soray fogging agent into the carb while cranking the engine so the cylinder walls get coated and protected from rusting up until the shop gets to it,
 

QBhoy

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Nothing to do with your starter. Initially at least. As Scott has already said. You’ve hydro locked. Find out what has caused that and you will get somewhere.
 

Pietri177

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Sep 18, 2020
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I got it started. It ran for about 15 min. I put in some gas treatment. Then I shut it off. It sputtered and I think it pulled water back in. It turns now barely but not start. Still sounds flooded. Started still sounds week. I’m ordering a new one.
 

Pietri177

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Sep 18, 2020
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Well. It starts after a day if sitting. I think I can at least change the starter and get it winterized. I think the water hose is now leaking.
 

Pietri177

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Sep 18, 2020
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Well. It starts after a day if sitting. I think I can at least change the starter and get it winterized. I think the water hose is now leaking.
 

Lou C

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Nov 10, 2002
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The typical causes of water in a cyl is a leaking exhaust system (exhaust elbow gasket leaking or elbow/manifold rotted through), blown head gaskets, cracked cyl head or block.

You can check for bad exhaust by draining the exhaust system of water and then removing the exhaust elbows, and see if there is water or signs of rust in the bottom of the center exhaust passage. If you find this that's an easy fix, remove the exhaust manifolds test them for leaks by filling with acetone, if they leak replace the manifolds if not they may be re-usable as long as the sealing surface is in good shape. I'd probably just replace the elbows if you don't know how old they are. Use VP gaskets and follow the instructions.
If on the other hand you don't find any sign of water in the exhaust gas passage, then you have to drain water out of the engine and do a cooling system pressure test. If you do a search people on this forum have described how to do it. If it passes this then that's good, if not you have to remove the heads and have them checked for cracks, and check the cyl block for cracks. Usually in a bad overheat the heads will crack but they don't always leak depending on where the cracks were, but the head gaskets will often leak after a bad overheat and cause the same problem (water in a cyl, hydrolock).

I had a similar problem, water in a cyl but no hydrolock, and found the cause from testing (blown head gaskets) I drained the water out of everything, and sprayed fogging oil liberally in the cyls, cranked it over and sprayed again, and then stored it for the winter. I took it apart in the spring and replaced the heads with remanufactured heads and new gaskets/head bolts. Still running well now 3 years later. You gotta get all the water out, I changed the oil 3 times in this process before storing it. Get the water out and oil the cyls. Ideally you would fix it now, but I waited on mine and was able to ressurect the following spring.
 
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