5.0GL-C
Model #3869131
Serial #4012085620 (? Label is really faded)
Aftermarket freshwater cooling
Aftermarket coolant fed heater core/heater system
150 hours since alleged rebuild/reman swap (previous owner reports and provided receipts)
After finally getting to the bottom of an overheating problem (long story short, my boat has an aftermarket heater and guess what? Heater core blown...) I took the boat out on a local lake for a shakedown run. She started up fine and purred like a kitten, ran around a few times doing some WOT runs and everything seemed great until I heard what sounded like detonation, pulled back to idle, ran rough and then died and wouldn’t restart. I limped back on my kicker and dragged her home feeling very defeated. After reading through some old threads on here I decided to do a compression and check and found good results (150-170) on all cylinders except #2 and #5 which both read ZERO. 2 and 5 are on opposite sides and there is no indication of water in the oil so either I blew 2 pistons or I have some stuck valves. This boat had sat idle since the overheating problem started last fall, it was the end of the fishing season for me anyway so I drained the manifolds, winterized the kicker and called it good. Then 2020 happened and I never got a chance to try to resurrect her until mid-August. The overheating problem really had me thrown for a loop until I realized my heater system wasn’t electric but coolant fed... who knew? Anyway, I throw myself at the mercy of the court, what should I do next? I ordered a cylinder leak down tester kit that will be here tomorrow. The exhaust manifolds and risers are off and are going to be replaced with new assuming this engine isn’t DOA. I have all the plugs out and am ready to troubleshoot. If it’s just a few stuck valves can I pull the heads and have them cleaned up at a machine shop? Will any machine shop suffice or are there specific marine machine shops? As far as pulling the heads are concerned what should I know before starting? I’ve never gotten this deep into a disassembly before, it seems pretty straightforward but also daunting. I know the distributor needs to be marked before I pull it, but how/where? Should I pull the valve covers before doing any of this? Is there anything to be learned by looking in there? Sorry for the long post, thanks in advance for the help.
-JR
Model #3869131
Serial #4012085620 (? Label is really faded)
Aftermarket freshwater cooling
Aftermarket coolant fed heater core/heater system
150 hours since alleged rebuild/reman swap (previous owner reports and provided receipts)
After finally getting to the bottom of an overheating problem (long story short, my boat has an aftermarket heater and guess what? Heater core blown...) I took the boat out on a local lake for a shakedown run. She started up fine and purred like a kitten, ran around a few times doing some WOT runs and everything seemed great until I heard what sounded like detonation, pulled back to idle, ran rough and then died and wouldn’t restart. I limped back on my kicker and dragged her home feeling very defeated. After reading through some old threads on here I decided to do a compression and check and found good results (150-170) on all cylinders except #2 and #5 which both read ZERO. 2 and 5 are on opposite sides and there is no indication of water in the oil so either I blew 2 pistons or I have some stuck valves. This boat had sat idle since the overheating problem started last fall, it was the end of the fishing season for me anyway so I drained the manifolds, winterized the kicker and called it good. Then 2020 happened and I never got a chance to try to resurrect her until mid-August. The overheating problem really had me thrown for a loop until I realized my heater system wasn’t electric but coolant fed... who knew? Anyway, I throw myself at the mercy of the court, what should I do next? I ordered a cylinder leak down tester kit that will be here tomorrow. The exhaust manifolds and risers are off and are going to be replaced with new assuming this engine isn’t DOA. I have all the plugs out and am ready to troubleshoot. If it’s just a few stuck valves can I pull the heads and have them cleaned up at a machine shop? Will any machine shop suffice or are there specific marine machine shops? As far as pulling the heads are concerned what should I know before starting? I’ve never gotten this deep into a disassembly before, it seems pretty straightforward but also daunting. I know the distributor needs to be marked before I pull it, but how/where? Should I pull the valve covers before doing any of this? Is there anything to be learned by looking in there? Sorry for the long post, thanks in advance for the help.
-JR