Volvo Penta SX-M Gimbal Bearing Housing Corrosion | Gimbal not seating falling out

[baker556]

Hello from the UK here.

I have a Glastron Sx175 purchased new in 2004 with my father being the original owner.

We have replaced the gimbal in that time maybe 4 times over the years including the bellows servicing etc.

From having the gimbal replaced last year by my mechanic we noticed the dreaded grumble whilst being out at sea, taking here in, I removed the outdrive for the gimbal bearing to literally fall out attached to the shaft.

The mech came back out and noticed the bellow has a small split, therefore replaced re-seated the gimbal, aligned and off we went again, toward the end of last season the gimbal grumbled again, I let this until not awaiting the new season knowing there might be issues. I'm completely fed up with this mechanic and therefore will not use again.

Upon inspection with new bearing, bellows at the ready along with hydraulic lines (slight leak), I noticed that the gimbal fits into it's housing but appears to be slightly loose, not the snug type of fitting you'd expect. There was some water again in the bellows (rusty water that is) this has caused some corrosion.

To get the gimbal to seat snug, is the best method to 'stake' the gimbal hole, maybe use some kind of shim, along with loctite bearing glue? I want to get a nice fit to drive home.

Note the pictures below, there is a lot of missing metal around where the bellows fit, it looks as though the salt water has penetrated eating away at the metal, is this best built up with some epoxy?

The reality is that a new bearing housing is required I think, but until I find one, what can be achieved?

It's also worth asking, would the grease nipple leak into the housing?

Thanks,
Chris

 

[Jeepster04]

If you are certain that youre going to replace the housing, clean up where the bearing sits very well and use some 2 part marine epoxy and epoxy the bearing in place.

Im amazed youve had to replace that bearing so many times. My parents have a 2006 4.3 and its sat in fresh water since 2012. It still has the original bearing.

 

[baker556]

Hi Jeepster,

Thanks for the response, that's good to know, my boat is on a dry stack therefore gets lifted often to stop corrosion and the influx of salt water.

However as said the boat is used in salt water and in poole harbour that is often shallow, this meaning the drive often gets trimmed during operation.

Can you recommend a strong marine epoxy?

 

[Lou C]

What you have appears to be the result of a chronic leaking bellows, only frequent leakage of salt water will cause that much corrosion. It’s very unusual to have to replace a bellows or gimble bearing that many times. I have an old 1988 OMC Cobra used in salt water 15+ years (also moored in the salt 6 months out of the year for those 15 years). In that time I’ve replaced the bellows 2 times and the gimble bearing once. Drive is pulled at the end of each season to check for leaks. You have a chronic leak from some where and that needs to be sorted out. I think you are going have to replace that gimble housing I don’t see fixing that with epoxy. After it’s repaired use the boat a few times then pull the drive to make sure it’s not leaking. It’s posdible a chronic leak at the bellows corroded that gimble flange to the point where a new bellows cannot seal. It is also possible for it to leak at the grease tube but the never had that problem. Normally those bellows (Cobra and Volvo SX use the same bellows) last up to 10 years. That’s what I’ve gotten in my use..

this is why sone people do not want sterndrives in salt water, they are maintenance intensive and can be trouble prone. Personally while I made this one last a long time I’d never have another. Outboards only for me from now on.

 

[baker556]

Hi Lou,

Thanks for the response. I'm in agreement with you and after posting your experiences of only changing one bearing in 15 years, I'm inclined to agree there is a major leak somewhere.

It is possible the zirk fitting is leaking and getting inside, this would make some sense, here is a thread I found:

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/eng...x-dp-s-gimbal-bearing-grease-tube-replacement

I'll look to repair the corrosion where the bellows sit with epoxy and fit a new zirk to the grease tube.

Is it possible the leak can get past where the outdrive installs onto the transom, there is no gasket here, is anyone using some form of instant gasket?

Thanks

 

[baker556]

Meant to add, although I agree on the outboard vs sterndrive argument, I believe that it's easier to work on sterndrives..

 

[Lou C]

Have you done a starter or steering actuator on a sterndrive? On some boats these jobs are extremey difficult. The one advantage to sterndrives the use of simple and cheap to repair/replace GM marine engines all based on old school Chevrolet designs we grew up with in the 60s and 70.
I agree that major engine repairs on the old school cast iron GM marine engines are cheaper and simpler. But dealing with the rest of the engineering compromises inherent in the sterndrive design is something I don’t want to continually deal with; in fact it’s what you’re dealing with right here!

i
happen to love Chevy small blocks, grew up with them learned to drive with them etc. but I’d prefer to have one in a 70 Camaro or Nova than in a boat!

 

[Lou C]

Hi Lou,

Thanks for the response. I'm in agreement with you and after posting your experiences of only changing one bearing in 15 years, I'm inclined to agree there is a major leak somewhere.

It is possible the zirk fitting is leaking and getting inside, this would make some sense, here is a thread I found:

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/eng...x-dp-s-gimbal-bearing-grease-tube-replacement

I'll look to repair the corrosion where the bellows sit with epoxy and fit a new zirk to the grease tube.

Is it possible the leak can get past where the outdrive installs onto the transom, there is no gasket here, is anyone using some form of instant gasket?

Thanks

1) yes it is possible for the grease tube to leak, I have never had that problem on the Cobra but have heard of it happening
2) as long as the end of the bellows that fits into the pivot housing is properly installed and the bearing carrier that presses into it is not corroded/pitted it should not leak. In fact in my OMC shop manual it says to coat the inner edge of the bellows where it fits over the bearing carrier with OMC triple guard grease. I have not had any trouble it sealing there. The Cobra does use a gasket but the Volvo does not use one. The Cobra needed the gasket to seal the cavity where the shift cable passes through,

 

[dypcdiver]

I have to agree with Lou C. My gimbal is 20 years old 650 hours. also kept in salt water 6/7 months a year. I have never seen anything like that. I am inclined to suspect that there is an electrical fault causing electrolysis. Does your boat have an active anti-corrosion system and do you disconnect it when the boat is racked?
I did have a bellows leak the first season I had the boat, and it sat out of the water for 5 months full of salt water. The hose clip had not been tightened by the Cranchi agent who sold me the boat new. I fitted a new Gimbal as the waiting list for a Volvo Penta agent to fix it was 3 months!

 

[Lou C]

The best thing you can do is learn to do all the maintenance and then do it without fail every year. That way if there’s a problem it gets fixed promptly.
R&R drive at end of each season
inspect bellows, gimble bearing u joints and shift system
change gear oil check for water and wear particles
replace anodes each season
if all this plus the antifouling paint is done on time each year yes then it can last. But for lower maintenance go outboard all the way. Just don’t buy an old one start with a late model 4 stroke OB.

 

[Lou C]

here are some pix of the bellows used on both the Cobra and SX, note the ridge in the bellows which must fit into the groove in the gimble flange...

 

[baker556]

Update here, thanks to everyone for the advice, extremely helpful.

Lou C - I replaced the gimabal bearing myself in the end, I notched out where the gimbal bearing seats, used bearing retaining loctite, as I slowly eased the bearing into the housing the bearing started to bite, getting a good firm seat. I then used the installation tool with around 10 whacks the bearing seated nicely, this was left overnight and the next day I aligned the bearing.

Replaced the bellows, thanks for your tip on the correct way up, greased the UJ joints, reinstalled the outdrive (this is hard work for one) tighten everything as per torque specifications.

Finally went out on her over the weekend, no problems at all, no grinding from the bearing all smooth!

Hopefully that is the last time for a while!

Thanks again,
Chris

 

[dypcdiver]

Well done Chris, if you check up at the top of the forum there is an Adults Only section, in there you will find advice on stands for the out drive. Makes a big difference. My stand sits on a board with casters to allow it to be moved around by one person.

 

[baker556]

Thanks, dypcdiver - the only issue with a stand with castors it's likely to operate low enough for a drive to be put back together, when the boat is on a trailer.

 

[Lou C]

I built a wood one with casters about 15 years ago then upgraded to this about 8 years ago, Stumpy's Fab works. Well worth the price! Makes it much easier on your back. This and an alignment tool make your life much easier.

 

[baker556]

Thanks for posting the pics Lou C, really appreciate it - will start looking into this.