Need 2008 VP 5.7 HELP!!!! PLEASE

Lou C

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Does the Volvo shop manual give any spec on just how far open that throttle plate should be? This must be giving you a hell of a headache!
Somehow it makes me thing that these 2 things aren't as bad as people thought way back then:
 

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alldodge

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Do you think the plugs will clean up on their own if I don't remove and wire brush them
and just run the motor now that I've got the throttle body arm adjusted back? They are super super black. Or should I just remove them, clean them the best I can and then reinstall ?

They should clean up on there own. Cleaning one off will just give a quick indication if things remain the same, but not necessary IMO.

As wave34 mentioned, your TB is probably closed to much now
 

Regal1973

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Yesterday I readjusted the throttle body arm to get it back to as close as it was originally before I bent it.

I ran it for about 10 minutes today on the hose. It never cleaned up and was putting out a real nice slick of soot across my driveway, as well as a bit of black haze. Nothing changed after running it for a bit.

I pulled each spark plug wire and grounded it near the motor mounts and each one gave a pretty decent blue spark.

I checked all my connectors & nothing has corrosion. I checked around the ground wires and all looks clean. I checked fuel pressure at the rail and it holds steady at 52psi.

Orginally I thought it was bad enough with the lopping idle I had at first; at least I could still take it out if I really wanted to. Now this new running super rich issue has come about out of the blue and I cant make heads or tails of what's going on.

Unfortunately I dont own a scan tool, and dont really have intentions of buying one either, seeing as i plan to sell and purchase a center console fishing boat....then i would own an expensive scan tool and no use for it LOL.
 
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Regal1973

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Anyone know a reputable Volvo Penta tech in central Florida? I'm thinking its time to have someone who truly knows these VP motors inside & out, and who has the software to really dive deep into the issues. I've had several people say the shop who did the motor install are reputable, but even they werent able to figure out the idle issue, and now I have the over rich running issue on top of it all.....
I have always been able to hack my way through and eventually diagnosis & repair any issues but this time, I'm dang near throwing in the towel...(did I just say that?!!)...the feeling of defeat is about where I'm finding myself.....
 

alldodge

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Finding a VP place that really knows VP is hard. There is a Formula forum member in FL which has had trouble with her controls for years. Have several VP techs, and others look at the issues. She final came across Eagle Marine out of Delray Beach and they fixed the issue. Her problem was not like yours, but they where sharp enough to figure it out and didn't take them long
 

Regal1973

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Thank you AllDodge, I'll look them up. Delray is a good ways away but if theres the chance they could figure it out; it would be worth the time & effort to get it to them.
I'm going to fight with it a bit longer before I throw in the towel. I may have to rent another scanner. I orig used the techmate pro. Would this be the best for the average consumer or is there a better option?
 

alldodge

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I may have to rent another scanner. I orig used the techmate pro. Would this be the best for the average consumer or is there a better option?

I have the techmate but most find the diacom software to be better because many parameters can be seen at once, and it can record and play back the info for review.
 

bruceb58

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I have the techmate but most find the diacom software to be better because many parameters can be seen at once, and it can record and play back the info for review.
I also have the techmate. I just use it for my Mercury OB. If I had done it over again, would have bought the Diacom.
 

Regal1973

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AllDodge & Bruceb58, thanks for the info.
wonder if I can use the diacom with a chromebook?
I may first, just rent the techmate pro again to see if I can easy pinpoint this extreme overly rich running issue, so I can get back to diagnosing the original idle problem I was having.
 

Regal1973

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I spoke with a mobile mechanic yesterday . These are the things he suggested looking into.
He said the map sensor may be faulty and causing the extreme rich running issue that I'm now having. He said the map sensor could also be related to the original idle issue that I was having but its now completely faulty, causing the rich running problem, on top of idle issues.
The part number on my map sensor is 261-230-075. I tried to cross that number over with my local auto parts stores but unsuccessful. I contacted General Motors who gave me a crossover GM part number of 12568929, but they said the number is not showing as a part available anymore. I was able to find the part ending in 075 online, so I guess I'll order one.

The mechanic also suggested a new IAC. I did originally replace the IAC when I was originally troubleshooting for the idle issue I was having. Once I replace the IAC with a new unit, it didn't seem to make any difference at all, so I sent back the new one back and put my original one back in.

He questioned me about the temperature swings that I'm seeing on my temp gauge on the dash. He said we need to verify whether or not I'm truly getting this type of temperature swings.
If you remember in my earlier posts, the temp would rise up to around 175*, then when the thermostat would open, the temps would drop down, bottoming out on the gauge which only starts at 100 degrees.
The idle issue I was originally having fell between 160 and 175 degrees. Anything below 160 on the dash guage & the motor would run smooth. Anything over 160 & we had idle issues.
He said we need to shoot the thermostat housing near the 2 prong connector brass temp sensor with an IR gun and verify what kind of temperature swings I'm getting throughout the temperature cycle. He also suggested shooting both exhaust logs to see if I'm getting similar temperature swings there. He said if we are truly getting large temperature swings, we need to figure that out first, because the ECM will be throwing a temper tantrum, not knowing what the heck it needs to do.
He didn't think my engine temperatures on the dash gauge should be dropping below 140 at any point since I have a brand new 150* Volvo Penta thermostat installed (which is the thermostat called for my engine).

I intend to replace the following items which were swapped over from my original motor:
•IAC
•TEMP SENSOR in thermostat housing which has the 2 prong connector.
•TPS
•EXHAUST MANIFOLD SENSORS(1 sensor in each log)

The thermostat, distributor cap, rotor, spark plug wires, and crank sensor have all been replaced. I also have a brand new set of spark plugs waiting to be installed but don't want to do this until I figure out the running rich issue.

Your thoughts on the machanics suggestions?

Anything else you can think of which I should swap out for new other than the part I listed? I hate throwing part's at the motor but at least, this way, I can hopefully eliminate them as being an issue.
 

alldodge

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Your shot gunning parts, and one or more may be the issue, As mentioned before the MAP can cause over fueling same as temp sensor. The exhaust temp senders I'm not seeing as part of the problem
 

Regal1973

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AllDodge, then I will hold off on the exhaust sensors for now. Putting my order together now...dont know how long it's going to take to get this stuff shipped with the coronavirus pandemic......
I'll update once I get parts installed.
Thanks!
 

Regal1973

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So I have a list of parts I'm about to order but have a couple questions ( some on e bay & amaz on will sell you anything and dont give a ton of info to make a sound decision lol).
My motor is a 2008 VP 5.7L GI-G

TPS SENSOR: I found several tps sensors but unsure which fits. A couple part numbers I found were #3855296 & #3855184. Both look the same as my original one. I visited a VP PARTS site online but when i get to my motor designation of gi-g, it shows a a sensor for different motor designation.....

IAC: Found a VP genuine IAC online part # 3843750. Looks exactly like my original one.

MAP SENSOR: My original map sensor has
part # 0 261 230 075 printed on it. I found part #12568929 which says it's a replacement for the other....& prices have a large range..

THERMOSTAT HOUSING TEMP SENSOR: Is there any difference between sensors as long as it is same thread and same connector (2 prong).....one I found online part #3850397 says it replaces most mercruiser & VP injection motors.
 

muc

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I will help with part numbers.

I would need a serial number. See post #75 for instructions on how to find it.
 

Regal1973

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Muc, thank you for assistance.
The only thing I have is the attached pic. Because I ordered the new motor from Michigan Motorz, there was no serial number & unfortunately the VP shop who installed the new motor, discarded the old one.
I might be able to find some paperwork from the original owner with some serial number info if the pic wont work.
 

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muc

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Your engine is a 2006-2007 model
TPS is called a Sensor and is p/n 3857487 $156.73
IAC is called a Sensor and is p/n 3843750 $310.76
MAT/MAP is called a Sensor and is p/n 3858987 that is replaced by p/n 3859020 $280.10
temp sensor for the ECM is called Switch and is p/n 3850397 $93.02
the suggested retail price for these 4 items is $840.79 and all of them can be tested with a scan tool.

If you buy these parts from a reputable seller, they won’t allow you to return them. Because they all can be damaged if installed on an engine that has a problem. If you buy them from somebody who will let you return them, it’s possible to get a damaged part. And when you swap one bad part for another bad part you won’t know without a scan tool. If you buy aftermarket parts there is a big possibility of getting something that doesn’t work quite right --- kind of like what happened with Michigan Motorz.
Also, it is very possible you have damaged the throttle body when you bent it. If that’s the case then you will need a new throttle body p/n 3858963 @ $972.70 the new throttle body will come with a TPS and IAC already installed. So the throttle body is $505.21 more than those 2 parts. I would never have recommended adjusting that screw. Volvo doesn’t even cover that adjustment in the service manual. The times I have had to do it (when a bad mechanic or customer messed with it) I have to call Volvo tech support to get the specs. Here is a little bit from a service manual ------


The minimum air rate is set at the factory with a stop screw.
This setting allows enough air flow by the throttle plates to
cause the IAC valve pintle to be positioned at a calibrated number of steps (counts) from the seat, during “controlled” idle
operation. This minimum air rate setting should not be altered
by turning the stop screw or bending the linkage. Improper idle
control will result.

Your ECM (and a few others) uses spark scatter along with the IAC to control idle RPM. This is something any good tech will keep in mind when diagnosing your problem.


Your boat, your money, I just hate to see you throw more away. You will most likely be money ahead if you buy Diacom (and somebody like me reviews the files) or take it to a good shop. From what I can tell the “mobile mechanic” is giving you bad advice to start swapping parts. Because there are even more parts that could cause this.
 

muc

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P.S. anybody who suggests the exhaust temp switches ----- just stop listening to them, it's very obvious they don't know how this system works.
 

muc

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Maybe time to think about switching to a carb?

AllDodge might be able to help with what that would cost?
 
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