2013-14 4.3 Water in #4 only

Mikey N.C.

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Customers boat , shop I'm working at install jasper long block 2015. Customer said boat wouldn't start late last yr. I pulled spark plugs all good except #4 was rusty. Oil was mixed , sucked out about a bucket full , to get near safe mark on dip stick. Started compression test , #4 was pushing rusty water out. Pulled starboard exhaust manifold #4 had water running out. Looked at exhaust valves all three had rust ( not bad) on valve stems about 1" up
pressure tested exhaust manifold 17-19 psi with air no leak down. Used cylinder leak down tester on #4 no leak down. Blocked off thermo. housing for both exhaust hoses ,attached a hose to sea water pump hose connection at thermo. housing that eliminates exhaust and sea water pump. Filled block with water thru , sea pump connection at thermo. housing . Hooked up radiator pressure tester to hose and pumped up to 17-19 psi no leak down after 30 mins . question does that intake have exhaust crossover in the center near carb. or is it a water crossover ? Did they ever use water crossover in the center of intake manifolds, if so is it possible that it's a mixed matched intake to motor. I don't think that's the situation but could be. I'm at a loss as why is only #4 getting water, other thank cracked cylinder wall or head gasket , but should have found with block pressure test. Any suggestions will be appreciated. THANKS
 

Mikey N.C.

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I also looked at elbow gasket to manifold (thin metal gasket ) used true plane machined block acrossed both surfaces , manifold is a little low , between exhaust and water ports. But the riser gasket just seems mighty thin compared to mercruiser . I didn't see rust residue on surfaces. Looks to me that if that was compromised it would only leak in center cylinder ?
 

QBhoy

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Hi mikey

although you tested exhaust manifold. Did you also test the riser too ?
other possibility, is perhaps the exhaust flapper being failed and she has taken a slug of water up the pipe. But less likely.
If you’ve ruled out internal frost damage (likely with that amount of water needing taken out) it can only be a few things. You can almost rule out intake manifold because it’s not common to all cylinders, usually.
were the breather pipes all showing signs of water mixed oil ?
 

Lou C

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There is no water crossover passage under the carb mount area but there is one in the front right under the thermostat housing. It is possible for it to rust through or feeeze crack but your pressure test should have revealed that. And that usually puts water right in the cam valley into the oil not cyls. Was there any sign of water leaking around the manifold to elbow joint? Did you measure the flatness of the mating surfaced of the elbow and manifold? Cat converter exhaust?
 

QBhoy

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These don't have exhaust flappers

I didn’t see that he had mentioned anything about what it was attached to. Would there not be a chance of flappers on a merc set up ? Think I said it was unlikely though.
 

bruceb58

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I didn’t see that he had mentioned anything about what it was attached to. Would there not be a chance of flappers on a merc set up ? Think I said it was unlikely though.
You realize you are in a Volvo Penta section right?
 

Scott Danforth

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first, pull the manifolds and do an acetone leak test. unless the manifolds were at temp, most cracks dont open until they are warm

next, the heads need to come off for some love on the valves
 

muc

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Any suggestions will be appreciated. THANKS

Pressure testing the block is done with the ALL the water drained out, might want to redo that test.

Never seen a leakdown test with no pressure drop, might want to redo that test.

Might want to buy Volvo exhaust manifold to elbow gasket kit, resurface or replace the manifold and elbow. Follow the instructions that come with the gasket kit to the letter.

QBhoy Once upon a time Volvo's had exhaust shutters. Many years ago they discontinued them and asked us to remove any that we found. Their testing determined that they don't help enough to justify the problems they can cause and cost.
 

QBhoy

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Pressure testing the block is done with the ALL the water drained out, might want to redo that test.

Never seen a leakdown test with no pressure drop, might want to redo that test.

Might want to buy Volvo exhaust manifold to elbow gasket kit, resurface or replace the manifold and elbow. Follow the instructions that come with the gasket kit to the letter.

QBhoy Once upon a time Volvo's had exhaust shutters. Many years ago they discontinued them and asked us to remove any that we found. Their testing determined that they don't help enough to justify the problems they can cause and cost.

Ah. Good info Muc. I only ever had 290dp Volvo drives. I know they didn’t have them. Just a flap on exhaust outlet. Heard some say that sx drives had them. I know they still sell them as parts at least.
cheers again.
 

Mikey N.C.

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Doesn't have flappers. Remember water was only in #4 cylinder. I had shop manager pull invoice from. 2015 when long block was put in. Now we are a small shop that's been in business for about 8-9 yrs. I've only be there since first of 2019 , long storie short , there was bad management and mech. at one time in the past. That being said. I pulled old invoice. There was exhaust manifold on starboard side replaced, but doesn't say ,about elbow gasket replacement. It still had steel thin gasket on it , just like port side. If that gasket would leak after engine was running , wouldn't most water leaking if not a bad leak be boiled off or pushed out exhaust ? Then when motor was shut down it would leak on that exhaust port?( cause if it was only leaking in center . it would drip in center cylinder.)
now mind you customer is in he's 80's and would tell grandkids go run boat. They would tell him it won't crank , it's the battery . bring it to house and charge. That leads me to belive it was hydro locking and as it set water would pass rings down into crank case. Since 2015 motor only ran ( nobody knows) maybe twice a season if they could get it to crank. Tough situation to figure out. But I replaced starboard side exhaust gaskets and yes I checked mating surfaces at elbow with machined true block, was off just a little but not bad. Got mixed oil out and replaced filter , added new oil and I'm going to run and see if still making oil. I'll keep post. I'll run tomorrow. Thanks for post and ideas.
 

Mikey N.C.

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Usually , with water in oil it's not that hard to find. As long as boat is brought to you before 5 yrs.
 

bruceb58

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Bruce, I’m sure the SX drive has shutters on occasion ? May be wrong. Sure someone told me that. Never worked on one.
Not for a LONG time. 1999 was the last year or so. Mine might have them but they will be removed if I ever get to it.
 

QBhoy

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Not for a LONG time. 1999 was the last year or so. Mine might have them but they will be removed if I ever get to it.

Good to know. Didn’t know that at all. I think Muc said the same earlier. Cheers Bruce.
 

Lou C

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The flappers were a hold over from when Volvo adapted the OMC Cobra design, the Y pipes and flappers were all the same parts or similar. I read Volvo's TSB on this and don't 100% accept that some kind of flapper is not needed, especially on the engines that had them and are not equipped with the later run vacuum break valves on the exhaust elbows. I had the same flappers on my Cobra all these years and never had water in a cyl from exhaust, and never had problems with them other than a bad overheat, that caused one to melt off the pivot pin, I fished it out and replaced both and its still doing fine with the newer style 2 piece manifolds/elbows I installed 2 years ago.
If I were to remove the flappers in the Y pipe I'd want something like inboards use, a flapper valve on the gimble housing where the exhaust bellows usually is installed. So Volvo says, they sometimes clog the exhaust because of an overheat (happens with Mercs just the same) and its OK to have no flapper at all? It just does not make sense. So I kept mine....
 

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Lou C

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And back to the original question, I'd take the whole manifold/elbow off the engine, prop it up level and hook up a water hose, put water pressure to it and watch the exhaust ports that match up with the exhaust ports in the cyl heads. If its leaking you should see it. Always measure the flatness of the mating surfaces of both the manifold and elbow, and follow the directions on the gaskets. I found my Barr aftermarket parts to be very flat, no machining needed.
 
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