Volvo AQ125 Sat For 20+ Years

bjarnold1

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 12, 2005
Messages
136
A good family friend passed away recently and his family is selling his boat. It's a 1983 Trophy with a AQ125 engine and 270 drive. I know the history of it since it was bought new. The boat has been in the water maybe 10 times it's entire life and always freshwater lakes. It has been kept in a large insulated garage since new. The only downside is it sat for long periods 1992-1997, 1997-2010, 2010-present. The last time it was used I changed the oil, oil filter, impeller, spark plugs, plug wires, converted the ignition over to Pertronix electronic ignition and rebuilt the carb. It ran flawlessly and didn't notice any issues. With a boat this old even if its basically a time capsule should I stay away from it?. Dry rot, leaking seals, trailer sagging leaf springs, trailer brakes
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
47,297
Rubber parts haf a life expectancy of only a few calendar years.

Assume you will need to reseal the drive, replace the impeller, replace the raw water pump seal, new bellows, etc.

Because the fuel long ago went bad, you will need to go thru the whole fuel system . this means cleaning the tank, rebuilding the carb, verifying the anti-siphon valve, etc

The choice is yours, however keep in mind. Its not a buy and dunk boat. Its currently a project
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
11,802
give the age of the boat I'd be checking for wood rot before doing anything. If you find it to be rotted forget it, way too much work unless you have a need to learn how to rebuild a 'glass n wood boat from the 'glass on up. If its structurally solid, then it might be a decent project assuming you can still get parts. So, I'd check the deck/stringers/transom, then check on parts availablity for commonly replaced stuff.
 

bjarnold1

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 12, 2005
Messages
136
Would wood rot be an issue if the inside of the hull was never exposed to water?. The boat never sat out a day in it's life
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
47,297
Would wood rot be an issue if the inside of the hull was never exposed to water?. The boat never sat out a day in it's life

considering its a bayliner........and its made in the 80's......... they started to rot on the factory floor

not a bad idea to check
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
11,802
All it takes is the right level of humidity and lack of air circulation. It does not have to be actually wet. This is the first thing anyone looking at a 'glass and wood composite boat should check regardless of what the previous owners say. If the garage was not damp then it may be fine. Keep in mind that freshwater use does not guarantee freedom from wood rot. In fact its quite the opposite, salt water corrodes metal but does not rot wood, fresh water for sure rots wood. Most of the wood rot that boats here experience is from rain water and general dampness.
 

djhinca

Cadet
Joined
Jun 12, 2017
Messages
7
I see from your profile that you're located in Modesto (I'm in Sacto..). If the boat has been stored as you described in or around Modesto, there is very little likelihood that dry rot would be a problem. Any boat stored out of the weather in the very arid Central Valley should last indefinitely. I speak from experience. The hull of my 1986 Bayliner Capri (AQ131/275) is in pristine condition after considerable use over the last 30+ years. We've been scrupulous in keeping it protected from rain/moisture in the off-seasons and carefully drain the bilge during summer use. Even still, a day or two in the dry, 100+ degree Modesto summer would take care care of any lingering moisture...
 

dennis461

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 11, 2011
Messages
516
On the other hand, I paid $700.00 for my similar boat and trailer.
I suspect if any amount of water was left in the exhaust manifold (which is normal if not drained) it is rusted through.
The distributer may also have rust inside as they are not perfectly air tight.
All the little seals on the cooling pipes will need replaced.
Hopefully no water was left in the copper tubing, it is nearly impossible to find replacements.
Rubber donut on exhaust, rubber hoses, throttle cable, both bellows.

Tilt mechanism, may be seized up and extremely difficult to get old ones out

You need an old Volvo 4-banger expert to check it over even if it is FREE.
I tried 'donating' my 1986 recently and was turned down at every attempt.
 
Top