AF Through Flush Port after draining

[mt2006]

I am hoping someone can helm me out. I have a 2018 240 VP with the "easy drain" system and closed cooling system. I drained the raw water side but am somewhat apprehensive about not knowing whether it is completely empty. Based upon another thread, I was going to try and use the flush port at the base of the stern drive to suck in a few gallons of AF but am concerned about whether this will hurt the impeller or run it dry. Is there enough "water pressure" if I just stick a bucket (with hose outlet) on the swim platform and run the hose to the flush port?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Scott Danforth]

should just need to push in the Easy Drain knob.

however yes, if you want warm and fuzzy feeling of -100 PG antifreeze in the system..... if you have a bucket with a hose connection on the bottom (like a giant funnel), connect that to the flush port. however dont simply attempt to "suck" from a standard bucket. you need gravity to assist you here.

 

[mt2006]

Thanks Scott.....that is what I was thinking. I was going to use something like a camco "winterizer" bucket (obviously without the water connected) or rigging up something similar out of a 5 gallon bucket. The issue I have with using the easy drain only is that I have no way of knowing whether it actually all drained. The manual said 2.9 gallons should come out (I don't see how) and I did not have a good way to measure the actual output.

 

[saaristo]

I have way older type of VP but "new" enough to have this engine flush port at the raw water intake on the side of the engine. So I plan to drain the raw water side ( block, manifolds, impeller tubes and housing) from water and then connect a big funnel or a bucket to the flush port and run the AF through raw water side. Maybe, during this, also tape the intake openings so it will not suck air instead of AF from the flushport. After that, rise the flush port so much that when filling the funnel it will also flow backwards through the power steering cooler and out to the drive.

 

[Scott Danforth]

I have way older type of VP but "new" enough to have this engine flush port at the raw water intake on the side of the engine. So I plan to drain the raw water side ( block, manifolds, impeller tubes and housing) from water and then connect a big funnel or a bucket to the flush port and run the AF through raw water side. Maybe, during this, also tape the intake openings so it will not suck air instead of AF from the flushport. After that, rise the flush port so much that when filling the funnel it will also flow backwards through the power steering cooler and out to the drive.

No, you must drain first, then pull AF. it wont work if you dont drain first. otherwise the cold AF will hit the thermostat, the thermostat will close and you will simply pump AF out the exhaust and end up with a busted block

the OP has a new heat exchanged motor with the eazy-drain system, so he is pulling AF AFTER he drains the raw water side

 

[muc]

I would NOT recommend using the flush port for antifreeze. That’s not what it was designed for.

Use a good fitting muff on the drive and pump the antifreeze to it or use something like the Camco jug and a lot of gravity.

 

[mt2006]

Thanks again for the replies Scott and Muc. I like the idea of the Camco jug on the swim platform with a hose running to either the flush port next to the drive unit or using muffs. My biggest concern with this is making sure the engine mounted impeller will be able to pull the AF through the system and not burn up. I was not sure gravity would be enough...

 

[jimmbo]

I just drain the Block, Manifold, Raw Water pump, and Hoses. 17th season and never a problem. Using AF, I think gives a lot of people a false sense of Security. And, if they don't, as pointed out, do it right, they will end up with a cracked block

 

[saaristo]

A way to minimize the risk of false security would be to drain everything from the raw water, flush it through with AF and then also drain the AF. Some are suggesting it will leave the engine drained (air wont freeze) but inner surfaces covered with thin layer of AF with corrosion inhibitors.

 

[muc]

I just drain the Block, Manifold, Raw Water pump, and Hoses. 17th season and never a problem. Using AF, I think gives a lot of people a false sense of Security. And, if they don't, as pointed out, do it right, they will end up with a cracked block

Are you suggesting that the O.P. not do required maintenance on his/her engine?
Did you know that both MerCruiser and Volvo have both changed from recommending antifreeze during winterizing to now requiring it on their newer products?

Adding the proper antifreeze to a engine can only help, it can’t hurt.

 

[Lou C]

OK I suggest if someone wants to do what the OP is asking, that is, use a winterizing tank to winterize the raw water side of the closed system, I would rig up a livewell pump to the tank (already did this myself as a flusher for my trailer drum brakes) to pressurize the flow. Reason being, the impeller on a Volvo is up on the engine. So the AF has to travel from the muffs, up about a foot, or so, then forward through the transom up to the engine, about 3-4 more feet feet. That's a lot of distance for the AF to travel to reach the impeller only by gravity flow. My concern is due to the engine impeller location, this could cause a burned up impeller if it does not get AF soon enough. A pressurized flow and good fitting muffs will address this concern better I feel.
If you're going to depend only on gravity flow, then I'd lower the trailer jack to get the boat in a bow down position, to make it easier for the AF to flow into the impeller housing, Best is a pressurized flow and -100 marine AF with corrosion inhibitors.

 

[muc]

A pump is a good idea, but getting the jug 2-3 ft higher than the top of the engine is enough. If the impeller won't pull it, the impeller needs replacement anyway.

Do Not lower the bow, you want the engine a level as possible during winterizing.

 

[jimmbo]

My VP owners manual mentions nothing about using Antifreeze, just to drain the Block, the Exhaust Manifolds, and Hoses. It doesn't even mention rotating the engine to evacuate the Raw Water Pump.

 

[Scott Danforth]

OP has a new LT series 4.3 with closed cooling and the Easy Drain system.

 

[muc]

My VP owners manual mentions nothing about using Antifreeze, just to drain the Block, the Exhaust Manifolds, and Hoses. It doesn't even mention rotating the engine to evacuate the Raw Water Pump.

Your owners manual also recommends that you review additional information from your authorized Volvo Penta dealer and instructions in the service manual. That’s because Volvo knew that new products and better ways to care for your engine would come along. Better ways have come along and Volvo sent a service bulletin to their dealers.

I apologize if my post comes across like I’m singling you out. That’s not my intention. I just picked a random antifreeze post. Part of the reason I post advice on this forum is because I have had to give customers a big bill for a repair that was totally avoidable. A good example of this is the gimbal ring pinch bolts on a MerCruiser. I’ve had customers that went 20 years without doing this maintenance item. Then one day they lost the ability to steer the boat. Seeing the look in their eyes was one of the worst part of my job.

 

[Lou C]

A pump is a good idea, but getting the jug 2-3 ft higher than the top of the engine is enough. If the impeller won't pull it, the impeller needs replacement anyway.

Do Not lower the bow, you want the engine a level as possible during winterizing.

I would raise it up level to drain.
PS I've been doing the manual drain and manual back fill of AF for 15+ years. I would love to see data that shows it reduces corrosion, but have never seen any objective data. Except, if you watch a boat started up after being stored dry, the water coming out the exhaust is rust colored for a few min. When I start mine up it is AF colored for a few min then clear. Maybe that's all the proof we can get!

 

[Lou C]

OMC batwing elbow outlets after 5.5 seasons in salt...and yes these were filled with proper AF each winterization...

 

[mt2006]

Thanks guys. I went ahead and used a camco jug on the swim platform (sitting on top of an upside down 5 gallon bucket) to suck a few gallons of -100 through the system using the flush port at the base of the transom. Seemed to work just fine.

I was always fine with the "air don't freeze" mentality on older boats where I could manually pull the hoses and drain plugs.