Fuel pump, relay and diode help

C-Rad

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Ok folks I have researched this to death with the knowledge I have and what I can comprehend. I have a 2001 larson LXI 190 with a Volvo Penta 4.3 GL PEFS, the Gray Engine block models. It is equipped with a low pressure fuel pump from what I have read. Couple of weeks ago I was on the lake. Boat ran great for a couple of hours and we beached on an island for about another two hours. Started fine and backed out then forward out into deeper water. As I accelerated the boat just died. No other symptoms indicating something obvious. While I was out there floating around I checked to see if fuel was getting into the carb when I pumped the throttle. I beleive I did see it when I had my wife do that for me, but now Im not sure because it would not start since. Towed back to campground and I started checking things. Boat would turn over fine. While in the campground with the boat on the muffs I checked to see if the carb was getting fuel. It was not. Pulled fuel filter. Seemed to only be 3/4 full. dumped it put it back on. did not fill it back up. turned it over again. No start so I pulled filter but no fuel getting into the filter. Starter fluid sprayed into the carb I was bale to get it to fire a little. Checked several plugs grounding on the block to see if I had spark. All good. plugs looked decent. I assumed it was just the pump. Started researching and now I am very concerned and confused. I just pulled the pump and tested straight off the battery. When energized it works, or at least kicks on as if it is pumping. Didnt do that for long as the pump is empty and dry. I found the schematic from another post of the wiring and there was mention of two diodes. Seemed this has been hashed out before but not sure if it is whatmy problem is. Iv'e seen some report of fixes with same symptoms but it be something different. I have started taking the insulation tape off the harness to find these diodes. Have not found them yet. Checked 7.5 amp fuse. continuity check shows its good. the really looks different to me. Its essentially a relay block that is not labeled though the schematic is labeled so i see what wire does what. the schematic shows the wires from the alternator but the one that should be green is not green which is supposed to have a diode in line to the pump or the relay. It doesn't look as if it has been altered from factory though. Also this relay block just has the wire hooked to the connectors but there is no normal looking relay plugged into this block. Is there supposed to be one? I've never had one on there and the boat always started fine and ran great.

So I am at a loss at the moment trying to trouble shoot before I take it to a mechanic. I'd like to go in somewhat educated and be able to tell everything I have trouble shooted so they can focus on the problem and not chase supposed gremlins. From what I have read from the forums and what I can find, this set up uses the starter when cranking to energize the pump. Once started and key goes back to on position the alternator takes over energizing the pump from the green wire with a diode in line. There is another diode somewhere on one of the wires also coming from the relay block, from what the schematic shows. these diodes are in place so that power does not backflow through the wire somehow. If that is all correct in layman's terms are these diodes a problem? have any of you dealt with this, replace them, test them, and how far down the line in the harness are they?

I know this is a long story but wanted to get as much info to you all that I suspect would have been asked of me. I am going to pull the floor panel and check the fuel hose from the tank. I guess there is a fuel pick-up and screen i need to check? is there another pump in the tank? I assume yes or does the electric pump I mention suck the fuel all the way from the tank.
Thanks if you can shed some light on this.

Conrad
 

alldodge

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The diode is there just need to find it. May not look like a diode but showing the wire energizing the relay changes to orange

VP wiring GL_E.jpg
 

Saline Marina

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Sep 9, 2014
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The diode(s) is/are mainly to prevent the field of the alternator from slowly pulling down the battery when the engine is off.

I would troubleshoot the fuel pump relay directly to see if the coil is energized, the contacts are pulling in which would cause the fuel pump itself to run. It sounds like the fuel pump will run when jumpered directly to B+ and ground, so that's a good troubleshooting step, but the relay is what's in the middle. So there are the two things to check, the relay coil is being energized, and that the contacts are pulling in and switching 12vdc to the pump motor.
 

km1125

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Are you sure the pump is not working?? Is it possible your issue is really a plugged anti-siphon valve and the pump just doesn't have enough suction to overcome it??
 

C-Rad

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Aug 4, 2015
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All thanks for the wiring diagram, though mine is a 4.3 GL it is very close. I found a good diagram right off this site. Yes the pump bench tested. Now this is the weirdest part.

The really block or socket I am speaking of does not have a relay plugged in. I'm not sure it ever did. I am wondering if prior owner had some rigged up jumper and that popped out. I looked all in the bilge area and back of boat. No relay anywhere so I don't think one popped off vibrated loose or anything like that. I currently have the entire rear seats pulled out so I can get all over the engine. Wondering if someone could have made some kind of jumper on the relay socket to make everything work? and maybe that little jumper came out and i can't find it now?

I will try and post some pictures when I can.I have not checked the anti syphon valve or the pick-p screen yet, but will. Need to rule out the dumb stuff first. It is supposed to be a 12v 40amp relay. Will an auto relay of some sort work for testing? I have not ordered the Volvo Penta specific relay by part number yet but found them on ebay for about 20 to 30 bucks. should probably just order one. Sorry if my initial post was confusing.

The schematic I found was from a post from Don S. who from I read has passed away but was a major contributor to the volvo penta section. He has a post on how to test the relay contacts to the battery and all that. I wish I could be working on it right now. Trying to finish up college homework at 48 friggin yrs old. Just gotta finish this semester off to take a break.

I will do some more testing and post back results. Thanks for the suggestions.

Conrad
 

dypcdiver

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I believe you only have one pump and you might have the socket that suits the injected version that has a second HP pump.
 

C-Rad

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dypcdiver,

I believe so as well. I have one pump, low pressure, and the relay socket is designed for two relays for fuel pump assemblies that require high and low pressure pump. Of course only one side of the socket is wired for the one pump. Pretty sure that was standard factory as the schematic for the one pump set up shows a relay socket ready for two relays but wiring schematic only shows one side of socket wired up for use.

And yes I will try and get some pics up so everyone sees what I see. sorry to drag this out. Like I said damn school work for college classes.

Conrad
 

C-Rad

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hopefully I can upload some pics
 

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C-Rad

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seems the other pictures are too big to upload. I have more but that last one is all that loaded. Ill figure something out.
 

C-Rad

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Well folks. Sorry to resurrect this. I got the boat started finally. Put in a new relay, but did the voltage checks per Don S. posted years ago. then put the new relay in and viola it started. Ran like a champ on the muffs in the driveway. But when I turn the boat off the fuel pump keeps running. I have to pull the relay and then plug it back in. Odd. so its not a fuel delivery problem going on now. Makes me wonder again if the prior owner had some king of jumper wire made up to start and run because he too experienced the pump running after he turned it off? not sure that is even possible. Now to troubleshoot why it keeps running. Pulling and plugging the relay back in id going to be a pain. Season pretty much over so I may winterize soon and tackle this in the spring or bring it to my boat guy. He closed up shop and is opening a new place. Just hasn't opened back up yet.

Let me know if this has happened to anyone and if you have a fix. Thanks for all the help earlier. Im just glad I got it running again.

Conrad
 

alldodge

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I have GL wiring diagrams for A thru E and they all use 2 diodes. One from the ignition start side and the other from the ALT. Since it won't shut off after start, it has to be the diode coming from the ALT, and the diode is shorted, or installed backwards
 

C-Rad

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AllDodge,

Thanks for the info. As I stated earlier, I have not found the diodes yet. And the wire that is supposed to be green from the alternator seems to be just a black wire. Lots of electrical tape or whatever it is to peel off that wiring to find the diodes I am assuming. I figured something was backfeeding power to the pump. But why does it shut off when I pull the relay and when I plug the relay back in it doesn't kick back on?
 

alldodge

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With a wire spliced back in, and or cover up by the electrical tape, the diode has been removed. Going to need to install another so the key will work shutting it off

But why does it shut off when I pull the relay and when I plug the relay back in it doesn't kick back on?

You bring up a good point, could be the issue is the ALT. Disconnect the purple and green leads from the ALT. This will stop the ALT from putting out power, then see if the key does kill the motor.

If it does, ohm out the connections to see if the Green (its not green on your motor) and the purple with power off are some how connected.
 
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