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  • Dear Community Members,

    Updated 9/29/20 - Upgrades have been pushed until 10/7/20

    Over the last two years, there have been updates to the environment that have introduced challenges in usability, performance, and security. Efforts to improve the technology, user interface and site performance have revealed weaknesses in the platform and outdated software our site uses. This has made it increasingly difficult and frustrating to support and upgrade to more modern reliable standards that users deserve. This is not the experience we want for the members of this community.

    Members want a fast site that performs well across all devices, to be able to find relevant and interesting content, and easily share through text, images, video, and messaging on a secure platform. Our goal is to provide this user experience to all members. We will be updating to a new platform to better meet the needs of this community and allow us to provide support more efficiently. Our focus is to create a sustainable platform that performs well and loads faster on all devices while offering seamless ways to search and connect. Technology is constantly innovating - by creating an environment that we control we can maintain the site with more frequent improvements and maintenance updates.

    Although change can be difficult, we are here to support you through the process. We make every effort to review existing settings and make the changes needed so the migration goes smoothly. If you notice something doesn’t seem correct once the site goes live, don’t panic! We’ll have a dedicated person monitoring as the site goes live to answer any questions and provide support through this change.

    What’s next?
    When will this be happening? The plan is to put our current forums into maintenance mode (off line) at around 9am MST on 10/7/2020! The whole transition should take 30-36 hours. We recognize the user experience is slow and there are bugs from the outdated software. The sooner we can change that the better we can make the experience for you. You’ll start to see activity related to cleanup in preparation for migration very shortly. We will post an announcement to the community prior to starting the actual data migration.

    We appreciate each member’s contribution to this community and look forward to an improved experience for you all.

    - Management

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Pressure test block/HX Volvo Penta 5.7Gi

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  • Pressure test block/HX Volvo Penta 5.7Gi

    So I need to pressure test my VP 5.7Gi block for leaks. Suspect a blown head gasket do to water in oil but engine runs fine. From last post, salt water pouring out (and I mean pouring!) of RW reservoir. Engine now overheats. Pulled HX to pressure test but not much on web hot to do procedure. Read about bike tire but how do I plug up other outlets/inlets? My main question is: I may have two problems, bad HX and blown head gasket. How to I do a block test with heat exchanger removed? Pic of engine below. Thank you for help. Eric Mailander

  • #2
    Make sure to look at the exhaust manifolds and risers probable that's were the problem started as for pressure testing the block I haven't heard of doing it that way .
    , the way I've always seen it done was to introduce air into the spark plug holes one at a time and see or here where the air come out
    The trouble with trouble is it starts as fun!

    Comment


    • #3
      Get HX tested. If that passes, re-install, block off inlet hose and two hoses to exhaust and use a standard radiator pressure tester (about $20 on amazon)
      Cheesehead boating the Gulf Coast of FLA 27.51° N, 82.53° W

      1988 Cruisers Rogue 2420 -VP 290 DP now powered by custom 468 - https://forums.iboats.com/forum/owner...988-rogue-2420

      Past Boats
      1970 Wooster Hellion - Merc 9.8
      2002 SeaRay 190BR - 5.0 - A1G2 - "Cheeseheads in Paradise"
      1984 Avanti 170DLI -3.0 stringer- "Ship Happens"

      What’s behind you doesn’t matter.Enzo Ferrari

      Comment


      • #4
        Thank you for the help. I ended up placing a cut bike tire tube over the fresh water side of the HX and blocked the overflow tubes. Then emerged the unit in a water-filled ice chest and air bubbles came out two of the raw water ports. So guess it failed the test. The HX is now obsolete and terribly expensive if I could even find one. May have to just re-power. Thank you again guys.

        Comment


        • #5
          as I told you in your other thread. take your HX in to a radiator shop and have them test. they can also repair.

          and yes, a proper HX is about $800 just for the cooler, a complete kit is about $1500
          Cheesehead boating the Gulf Coast of FLA 27.51° N, 82.53° W

          1988 Cruisers Rogue 2420 -VP 290 DP now powered by custom 468 - https://forums.iboats.com/forum/owner...988-rogue-2420

          Past Boats
          1970 Wooster Hellion - Merc 9.8
          2002 SeaRay 190BR - 5.0 - A1G2 - "Cheeseheads in Paradise"
          1984 Avanti 170DLI -3.0 stringer- "Ship Happens"

          What’s behind you doesn’t matter.Enzo Ferrari

          Comment


          • #6
            Thank you. My HX is sealed and I think the leak is inaccessible. I did an online search for the same type of HX and it is now obsolete. Anyway, I appreciate your comments!

            Eric

            Comment


            • #7
              Bullcrap

              Take it to a radiator shop. Quit arguing and just do it

              The end caps get un-soldered, the tube sheets re-brazed. Then the end caps re-soldered

              Its done all the time.

              So quit arguing, look up you local heavy duty radiator shop and get it repaired.

              You already wasted 3 weeks
              Cheesehead boating the Gulf Coast of FLA 27.51° N, 82.53° W

              1988 Cruisers Rogue 2420 -VP 290 DP now powered by custom 468 - https://forums.iboats.com/forum/owner...988-rogue-2420

              Past Boats
              1970 Wooster Hellion - Merc 9.8
              2002 SeaRay 190BR - 5.0 - A1G2 - "Cheeseheads in Paradise"
              1984 Avanti 170DLI -3.0 stringer- "Ship Happens"

              What’s behind you doesn’t matter.Enzo Ferrari

              Comment


              • #8
                Thank you. I get advice from so many people, many telling me to just re-power at 4,000 hours. If the HX rebuild fails or a radiator shop can't salvage it, can I just convert back to raw water? Just a thought.

                Comment


                • #9
                  at 4000 hours your motor is most likely tired. HX's can always be repaired.
                  Cheesehead boating the Gulf Coast of FLA 27.51° N, 82.53° W

                  1988 Cruisers Rogue 2420 -VP 290 DP now powered by custom 468 - https://forums.iboats.com/forum/owner...988-rogue-2420

                  Past Boats
                  1970 Wooster Hellion - Merc 9.8
                  2002 SeaRay 190BR - 5.0 - A1G2 - "Cheeseheads in Paradise"
                  1984 Avanti 170DLI -3.0 stringer- "Ship Happens"

                  What’s behind you doesn’t matter.Enzo Ferrari

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Sign up today
                    Roger. Just know I do really appreciate your advice. Thank you once again, I'm learning a lot!

                    Best, Eric

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