Needle And Seat on Holley 2300 Marine Carb on my VP

Insomnium

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2001 5.0 GL PEFS

Anyway, I was having problems restarting after running a while and letting it sit. Looking down the carb I noticed it dripping gas onto the plates. Yup its soaked and need to be at WOT to even start. Other then that it runs like new.

So anyway, time to give the carb a going over. I rebuilt it last year and its tuned great but the only thing I didn't replace on the rebuild was the needle and seat and the float was level. There was no sticking with the needle so I let it go because to be honest it was working fine then and wasn't sure how to change it. How in the hell is this one changed or adjusted? I am used to other Holleys where you can normally adjust and replace them. Not this guy. No slot to adjust and no nut to loosen/lock.

The part circled is where the needle and seat are. Not accessible from the top at all. I guess I have to remove it from inside? how?

Sorry for being stupid on this one part. Any help is much appreciated.
1zchlz6.png
 

Insomnium

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Yeah I am tarded lol. So used to the ones where you adjust from outside. Thanks dood

The video doesn't really say how to adjust, just shows adjusting the normal style. I will pull it and play wit it. I am sure there is a way to adjust I guess
 

Scott Danforth

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center hung are adjusted from the outside. side-hung are adjusted from the inside

if you have the blue gaskets, they are re-usable.
 

Insomnium

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center hung are adjusted from the outside. side-hung are adjusted from the inside

if you have the blue gaskets, they are re-usable.

I do have the blue ones from the previous rebuild. Thanks again. I should have known it was an easy fix. I was thrown off because everything I found had diagrams and pictures of a side adjustable set up. I am guessing I twist it to the height I want to adjust.
 

Scott Danforth

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the jegs video I linked goes thru a side-hung adjustment in fine detail.
 

Insomnium

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the jegs video I linked goes thru a side-hung adjustment in fine detail.

I must keep missing it or I am seeing an entirely different video..It literally does not cover it at all. The only adjustments it shows are the standard external adjustments. Then at the very end it mentioned ones with internal adjustments to look at the sight hole (which my bowl does not have) but no mention of how to adjust it from the inside. It merely mentioned looking at the sight hole then says to contact Holley for instructions on how to adjust those models.

In the comments it seems I am not alone. One person even comments "There is a picture of a non-externally adjustable float as the thumbnail for this video, but no advice on setting those up." and JEGs replies with "For the answer to that question, would you please call us at 1-800-345-4545 so that one of our techs can better explain the process to you"

Thanks anyway. I am sure I will figure it out. I do appreciate you taking the time but for some reason I am getting an entirely different video on that link.
 
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jimmbo

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Even when the float is set perfectly, it will do that. The problem is called Percolation. The garbage that is being peddled as Gasoline these days is refined for use in a pressurized FI system. Because of that, the Vapour Pressure(temp where the gas will flash has been lowered. No problem in a pressurized fuel rail, where the pressure raises the flash point, but not so good in a Carb fuel bowl under Amospheric pressure. When the engine is shut off, internal heat will rise and heat the carb, and the fuel in some passages will flash/boil, forcing fuel to percolate out of the main nozzles, and the accelerator pump squirters

it can also occur in the fuel line between the fuel pump and carb. When the inlet needle is closed, some pressure does build up, keeping the fuel liquid, but when the fuel level drops when you restart and accelerate, the inlet valve opens and the warm fuel is no longer under pressure, it will boil as it enters the fuel bowl and flood the carb
 
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Insomnium

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I use only non ethanol gas and have a phenolic carb spacer. Shouldn't that eliminate that from happening? Or at least drop its chances?

I thought vapor lock was the problem earlier when I rebuilt it and added the carb spacer and switched to non ethanol gas and it worked great for a while but maybe because I cleaned the needle and seat real good then (but should have replaced).

I guess it could still be vapor issues but it worked great since cleaning the needle and seat, adding the carb spacer and switching to non ethanol gas.
 
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jimmbo

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When the engine is running, fresh cooler gas is continually entering the carb, taking away a lot of heat. Once stopped, heat from the engine eventually gets to the carb, which is no longer being fed fresh fuel.

Ethanol isn't the culprit, it is the lighter components of Gasoline, like Benzine, Butane, Toluene, that are

Vapour Lock occurs upstream of the fuel pump, but the cause is the same, low Vapour Pressure Index of the gas. It's one of the main reasons Fuel Pumps are now located in the fuel tanks of cars and trucks
 

Insomnium

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Ahh gotcha. So the carb spacer really doesn't help? I mean it seemed to help slightly performance wise but was told the phenolic ones reduce heat getting to the carb.

I guess I should hit the carb with the temp gun and see where its at after running.
 

Insomnium

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Scott, it was way easier than I thought. Thanks for the encouragement to just get in there and do it. It is pretty much only adjustable via bending the float tab a hair. No way to adjust via turning the nut like a regular one.

Te needle and seat worked fine but I noticed that the float was really high, probably from years of pushing up against it bent the tab t a small degree. I put in the new needle and seat, adjusted the float height and so far so good. Letting the motor heat soak a bit and so far no drippage.
 

Scott Danforth

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Adjusting a holley is easier than fixing a toilet
 
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