Easy enough to drain off some oil. If it persists after that, time for the mechanical gauge. This will establish for sure if the pressure really is a problem. If it isn’t, it is in the gauge system (wiring, sender, or gauge itself).
Can I install the mechanical gauge where the oil pressure switch is? It look a lot easier to get to that trying to get my big hands behind the engine and past the distributor where the oil pressure sender is? Also is there any chance the oil pressure switch would be causing this problem and should I change it too?
Can I install the mechanical gauge where the oil pressure switch is? It look a lot easier to get to that trying to get my big hands behind the engine and past the distributor where the oil pressure sender is? Also is there any chance the oil pressure switch would be causing this problem and should I change it too?
Take the adaptor piece you said you got in the mail from volvo penta to Napa or autozone and see what they have there for pressure gauges that will screw into it. The oil pressure test set at HF costs $29.00 and has a number of adaptors with it. I used a tee right where the oil temp sender is so I could keep both the electrical dash mounted gauge and mechanical gauge run in parallel. If you just want to ck if the oil pressure is ok, you can simply remove the sender and screw in the mechanical gauge without a tee.
I kept mine on as well. It is a good cross check with the electrical dash gauge. Since I replaced the wire from the sender to the dash, I have had no issues. If you do replace the wire, make sure you use a marine grade wire of the same gauge. The reading of the electrical oil pressure gauge on the dash is based on electrical resistance and the marine grade wiring is tinned to help discourage corrosion.
Is it just a single wire from the oil pressure sender directly to the back of the gauge? I’m assuming the oil pressure switch has a wire that also goes to the gauge? Still wondering if the oil pressure switch could also be responsible for this issue?
Is it just a single wire from the oil pressure sender directly to the back of the gauge? I’m assuming the oil pressure switch has a wire that also goes to the gauge?
I consistently get a low oil pressure reading and alarm after running the engine until it’s hot. If I come off plane after cruising and drop to neutral, then the gauge reads less than 10 psi and alarm goes off. When I start a cold engine I get about 40 psi consistently. I replaced the oil pressure sender to try and fix the issue. Didn’t work. My oil level was slightly above the full mark with the boat in the water. Haven’t had a chance to remove some oil and try it again. I’m going to replace the wire from the sender to the gauge and remove some oil. Could the oil pressure switch be faulty and be causing the alarm? It only comes on when the engine is hot and in idle. If I bump the throttle up a tough and put the boat in gear then the pressure Increases and the alarm goes away.
Could the oil pressure switch be faulty and be causing the alarm? It only comes on when the engine is hot and in idle. If I bump the throttle up a tough and put the boat in gear then the pressure Increases and the alarm goes away.
The GL-A has other alarms and any of them can turn the alarm ON. I'm seeing Temp and 2 exhaust temp switches. You probably do have low oil pressure but it could be the switch.
If it is the oil switch could change to 10w40 dino oil and that should bring the pressure up a bit
Ok thanks for the answers. I checked the risers with a digital thermometer last time and they were both about 115-120 degrees so I don’t think they set off the alarm. Going to install a mechanical pressure gauge and see what reading I get.
I wasn’t able to make a t fitting work with the mechanical gauge. I did put it on straight and run the engine on muffs. I showed 32 psi at idle and just under 50 psi running at 2500-3000 rpms. I wasn’t able to replicate the alarm going off or the low oil pressure reading since the engine temp never warmed up on muffs. My idle runs at about 800rpms consistently. I think I might try the conventional Rotella T4 15w40 oil and see if I get higher pressure readings on at hot engine at idle. I raised the bow of the boat to simulate how it sits in the water and checked the oil level. This time it showed just a touch above the add mark. Last time I checked on the water, it was over the full mark. I let it settle and pulled the dipstick out to make sure the oil level settled before checking it. Too much oil, too little oil or wrong viscosity is what I think at this point.
I’m also using a Purolator Pure One oil filter. Wonder if that has anything to do with the oil pressure drop? Maybe I should ditch that and try the VP oil filter.
Don't see a filter causing the pressure issue. If your getting gas in the oil (leaking injectors, diluting oil) then this will thin the oil and cause lower compression.
Watch the rpm's on a hose (under 1500), or can burn the impeller
I think your oil pressure is fine where you are based on the mechanical gauge reading. My bet now is if you run a new wire from your sender to the gauge it will solve the gauge and alarm problem since they are driven by the same wire and sender.
