Any tips on rebuilding carburetor on Volvo Penta 3.0 GLP-D

[Wavebreaker]

Does anyone have much experience rebuilding the Holley Carb on this engine? I've been troubleshooting a stalling problem on my 2006 Glastron. It starts and runs fine until I rev it up and then it starts to try to choke out and die. If I back off the accelerator then it will run but it won't run at high speeds. I Changed plugs, wires, ignition cap, and no change. So I pulled off the carburetor to clean it and rebuild it. Volvo Penta rebuild kit I bought came with no instructions and I have two really tiny cork washers left that I don't know where they go. I also noted on some of the Holley diagrams I found, it looks like the fuel filter at the inlet is supposed to have a small washer between the metal and the filter. I don't remember seeing this part. Last question, I saw somewhere that the jets are maybe two different sizes. I can tear it down and look at the jets again, but I thought they looked the same to me. Carb was rebuilt by a boat service place about 5-6 years ago but if I sent it back to them I'd be waiting until after summer ended to see my boat again!

 

[alldodge]

The jets should be the same size for your 2bbl

I've been troubleshooting a stalling problem on my 2006 Glastron. It starts and runs fine until I rev it up and then it starts to try to choke out and die. If I back off the accelerator then it will run but it won't run at high speeds.

This would be more an issue with fuel supply and may not be the carb.

Your carb may be clogged up, but could also be the fuel pump is not producing enough pressure (3 to 7 psi)

your accelerator pump may not be working, If you can real slowly increase the speed, it may not be the pump, but if no matter what it just will not increase speed under load, then back at pressure or float level

The float level needs to be at the correct level if not there is not enough fuel available

Suggest start with checking fuel pressure

 

[Scott Danforth]

Holley carbs are extremely simple devices

The following for those that have never rebuilt a carb

Pull the carb
Take pictures
count the number of turns to turn the needle screw in to seat
pull the fuel adapter
Pull the fuel bowl
Take pictures
Clean gasket surface with a plastic putty knife
Clean both sides of the metering block with a plastic putty knife
Remove the power valve, note the number on the side
Remove accelerator diaphragm from bottom of bowl
remove check valve (should be rubber)
Remove squirter nozzle and check valve below it
Remove choke assembly
Remove throttle base plate assembly. (Do not remove screws from throttle plates)
soak parts in carb cleaner
After a few hours, chase each passage with a fine wire or fishing line
Use compressed air to blow out each passage

Reassembly is reverse of tear down

Set float per instructions in kit
adjust needle screw to number of turns
adjust choke

Install carb

 

[Wavebreaker]

Update on my carb situation. Finished the carb cleaning and rebuild (my first time ever to do this) using whatever info I could find on the web which wasn't much. I consider it mostly a success because the boat started and it hasn't blown up.

But the boat isn't still where I want it to be. Now, once it is warmed up and I can get it away from the dock, it want's to choke out and die every time I try to throttle up. I have run it twice since the carb rebuild and both times it would choke out and die after I passed the no wake markers and tried to give it some gas. Then I eventually got it moving and it was stable until I tried to up the throttle again. I ran it at various RPMs up to a little over 3000 RPM and it was running stable. There was a lot of chop on the lake this evening so I couldn';t go to much faster than 3000 RPM. Backing off throttle was no problem, only advancing throttle. I'm wondering if my float could be the problem but didn't think of it while out on the water and sun was going down anyway. During the rebuild I tried to level the float upside down as a starting point. The only other thing I can think of that might have been wrong is the rubber check valve that goes under the carb. I was pretty sure the stem end goes up into the fuel bowl and what I saw online was that this is where extra fuel is pumped into the bowl when throttle is advanced. I have a new fuel screen in the fuel pump. The gas is premium 93 with a can of Sea Foam added at the recommended mix.

Thanks for your tips!

 

[Scott Danforth]

if you dont have the squirt when you give it throttle, you didnt clean the accelerator pump circuit. this would cause it to die when you try to accellerate

there are literally hundreds of videos by reputable mechanics on rebuilding a holley 2 barrel or 4 barrel (same process)

 

[jimmbo]

Those little Cork Washers, they are supposed to fit over/around the Idle mixture screws after the the screws are reinstalled in the metering block.
A lot of Holleys use Check Balls in the Accelerator Pump circuit, if it wasn't replaced, the pump isn't going to work