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Volvo Penta 3.0L

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  • #31
    Originally posted by AllDodge View Post

    Ok you have water making it to the thermostat housing but its still over heating, so the thermostat needs to come off and remove the thermostat. Place thermostat in a pan of water on the stove and heat it up. Use your temp gun to measure the water temp when it starts to open. Should open around 140 degrees

    Inspect the housing, it should be clear of debris
    Did that. It's a 160 thermometer. It did open at around that temperature but did not fully close so I'm replacing that. Housing looked fine, no debris. Put everything back together without the T-stat and it seemed to be fine for while, but temperature was creeping up again. Now I'm thinking water circulating pump? How would I go about testing that?

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    • #32
      Remove the large hose going to it, and remove belt on pulley. Insert something into the vanes and try to hold it to see if pulley can be turned by hand, and look at all the vanes to see if they are there

      Without a thermostat or one which stays open it should run cooler
      94 Formula 27PC Custom 509MPI MEFI3 , B3 XR
      95 Rinker 232 w/ 7.4L Carb 0F425011 B1 0F486471
      07 Seadoo GTX
      Merc Adults Only VP Adults Only
      G-Dad always said "First Liar doesn't stand a chance"

      Comment


      • #33
        Originally posted by AllDodge View Post
        Remove the large hose going to it, and remove belt on pulley. Insert something into the vanes and try to hold it to see if pulley can be turned by hand, and look at all the vanes to see if they are there

        Without a thermostat or one which stays open it should run cooler
        Will try that when I get a chance. I did notice something new when going through the manual. There is bracket that holds the raw water pump. On my boat, there is one, but I found it deep in the bilge. Could that be contributing to my overheat issue?

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        • #34
          Bad new (well not that bad, but bad). I was putting the raw water pump back in it's place and I over torked the one of the brass bolts. Surly it snapped the head off. Good news is I was able to take out the broken bolt with pliers (part of it was sticking out)!! Hours of pleasure!!!

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          • #35
            Originally posted by mltessier View Post

            Will try that when I get a chance. I did notice something new when going through the manual. There is bracket that holds the raw water pump. On my boat, there is one, but I found it deep in the bilge. Could that be contributing to my overheat issue?
            If the pump turns, then the bracket is used to keep the load from damaging the pump. Without the bracket, then things can happen. If it turns it pumps, but belt might be slipping a bit, so bit less water but don't see an over heat issue
            94 Formula 27PC Custom 509MPI MEFI3 , B3 XR
            95 Rinker 232 w/ 7.4L Carb 0F425011 B1 0F486471
            07 Seadoo GTX
            Merc Adults Only VP Adults Only
            G-Dad always said "First Liar doesn't stand a chance"

            Comment


            • #36
              Originally posted by AllDodge View Post

              If the pump turns, then the bracket is used to keep the load from damaging the pump. Without the bracket, then things can happen. If it turns it pumps, but belt might be slipping a bit, so bit less water but don't see an over heat issue
              I've read somewhere that pump might not prim if boat is out of the water. Something to do with the hight of the pump in relation to the intake. Is that something I should consider?

              Comment


              • #37
                You need a thermostat to regulate the water flow.

                Yes, without muffs, the boat must be in water to have the water level high enough to self prime
                Cheesehead boating the Gulf Coast of FLA 27.51° N, 82.53° W

                1988 Cruisers Rogue 2420 -VP 290 DP now powered by custom 468 - https://forums.iboats.com/forum/owner...988-rogue-2420

                Past Boats
                1970 Wooster Hellion - Merc 9.8
                2002 SeaRay 190BR - 5.0 - A1G2 - "Cheeseheads in Paradise"
                1984 Avanti 170DLI -3.0 stringer- "Ship Happens"

                What’s behind you doesn’t matter.Enzo Ferrari

                Comment


                • #38
                  Originally posted by Scott Danforth View Post
                  You need a thermostat to regulate the water flow.

                  Yes, without muffs, the boat must be in water to have the water level high enough to self prime
                  Sorry about all the noob questions....but with muffs it should self prime?

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    Yes, with muffs and the garden hose on full blast, it will self prime
                    Cheesehead boating the Gulf Coast of FLA 27.51° N, 82.53° W

                    1988 Cruisers Rogue 2420 -VP 290 DP now powered by custom 468 - https://forums.iboats.com/forum/owner...988-rogue-2420

                    Past Boats
                    1970 Wooster Hellion - Merc 9.8
                    2002 SeaRay 190BR - 5.0 - A1G2 - "Cheeseheads in Paradise"
                    1984 Avanti 170DLI -3.0 stringer- "Ship Happens"

                    What’s behind you doesn’t matter.Enzo Ferrari

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Wondering about this. There is sealing ring in the water pump I dont remember seeing. It's number 5 in the exploded view below. Could this have something to do with overheating situation? I will pull the pump and check when I get back home, but that's not until Sunday.
                      https://www.marinepartseurope.com/en...0-26-9451.aspx

                      Originally posted by AllDodge View Post

                      If the pump turns, then the bracket is used to keep the load from damaging the pump. Without the bracket, then things can happen. If it turns it pumps, but belt might be slipping a bit, so bit less water but don't see an over heat issue

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        if the seal isnt there, you will eventually kill the pump as the bearings are now exposed to water.

                        did you ever check the raw water inlet fitting on the outdrive? the one that the supply hose is attached to on the outdrive end? they fail on volvos, and should be replaced when you replace bellows every few years.
                        Cheesehead boating the Gulf Coast of FLA 27.51° N, 82.53° W

                        1988 Cruisers Rogue 2420 -VP 290 DP now powered by custom 468 - https://forums.iboats.com/forum/owner...988-rogue-2420

                        Past Boats
                        1970 Wooster Hellion - Merc 9.8
                        2002 SeaRay 190BR - 5.0 - A1G2 - "Cheeseheads in Paradise"
                        1984 Avanti 170DLI -3.0 stringer- "Ship Happens"

                        What’s behind you doesn’t matter.Enzo Ferrari

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          No have not check that. Not sure how?

                          Originally posted by Scott Danforth View Post
                          if the seal isnt there, you will eventually kill the pump as the bearings are now exposed to water.

                          did you ever check the raw water inlet fitting on the outdrive? the one that the supply hose is attached to on the outdrive end? they fail on volvos, and should be replaced when you replace bellows every few years.

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            you tilt the drive up, get underneath and look.

                            or when you do your annual drive removal for inspection, you look.

                            if you did the clear hose test and you have bubbles, this is a common location of sucking air on VP's
                            Cheesehead boating the Gulf Coast of FLA 27.51° N, 82.53° W

                            1988 Cruisers Rogue 2420 -VP 290 DP now powered by custom 468 - https://forums.iboats.com/forum/owner...988-rogue-2420

                            Past Boats
                            1970 Wooster Hellion - Merc 9.8
                            2002 SeaRay 190BR - 5.0 - A1G2 - "Cheeseheads in Paradise"
                            1984 Avanti 170DLI -3.0 stringer- "Ship Happens"

                            What’s behind you doesn’t matter.Enzo Ferrari

                            Comment


                            • #44
                              Originally posted by AllDodge View Post
                              Remove the large hose going to it, and remove belt on pulley. Insert something into the vanes and try to hold it to see if pulley can be turned by hand, and look at all the vanes to see if they are there

                              Without a thermostat or one which stays open it should run cooler
                              Getting ready to do this test. What should I expect? Should pulley turn when holding the vanes or should it not turn?

                              Comment


                              • #45
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                                Your checking to find out if the vanes have broke loose from the shaft. The pulley should not turn if the vanes are held

                                Also look at the vanes to see if there is no damage
                                94 Formula 27PC Custom 509MPI MEFI3 , B3 XR
                                95 Rinker 232 w/ 7.4L Carb 0F425011 B1 0F486471
                                07 Seadoo GTX
                                Merc Adults Only VP Adults Only
                                G-Dad always said "First Liar doesn't stand a chance"

                                Comment

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